Important: Safety Warning
This recipe calls for animal brains or related nervous-system tissue. Cattle brain and spinal tissue can transmit bovine spongiform encephalopathy (BSE), the cause of variant Creutzfeldt-Jakob disease in humans, which is fatal and has no treatment.
This information has been left in for historical purposes but should not be acted upon.
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Entrées: Sheep
Sheep's Tongues are served as- Langues de mouton braisées-larded, braised, and served in the sauce with capers. au parmesan-braised, and served in a cheese sauce. à l'Allemande-braised, and served with a com. pote of pears and brown sauce. en ragoût-stewed. Served with Brussels sprouts, they are à la Bruxellaise; or with currant sauce, à la Bohémienne.
Cervelles de mouton en caisses are Sheep's Brains cut in small pieces, with Béchamel sauce, baked in little soufflé cases, the tops sprinkled with breadcrumbs.
Queues de mouton au riz are braised Sheep's Tails, coated with rice, breadcrumbed and fried. They are also served au Parmesan, omitting the rice, and mixing grated Parmesan with the breadcrumbs.
Sheep's Trotters, though rarely seen at a gentleman's table in England, are much more often ENTRÉES. served in France. Boiled and cut in pieces, they are dressed as- Pieds de mouton en marinade-soaked in marinade, dipped in batter and fried, and served with tomato sauce; or à la Robert, served in Robert sauce. à la poulette are served with Poulette sauce in a baked shape of rice.
LAMB.
Lamb Cutlets are dressed in most of the ways which have been suggested for mutton cutlets.
There are also- Côtelettes d'agneau Superlative-coated with Allemande sauce with chopped mushrooms and herbs, breadcrumbed and fried; served with white sauce, and dressed spinach in the centre.
Served with asparagus in the centre, they are called à la Princesse; for the cold entrée of this name the cutlets are sauté, and served in Mayonnaise sauce. à la Duchesse-coated with Duxelles sauce, bread, crumbed and fried; dressed on a high vegetable border, with vegetables in the centre, and white sauce. à la boulangère-dipped in oil and then in flour; broiled, and served with a cream sauce. à la Robert-breadcrumbed, broiled and glazed; served with Robert sauce. à l'Angélique-broiled, and served in a rich brown sauce, garnished with cucumber.
Côtelettes d'agneau à la Maltaise-fried, and served in a white sauce with wine and orange juice and shreds of orange peel. aux petits légumes - breadcrumbed and fried; served with carrots and turnips cut in long shapes in the centre, and brown sauce. au Parmesan-dipped in a white sauce with grated Parmesan, breadcrumbed and fried. à la Pompadour-coated with veal forcemeat with truffles, and served in papers. farcies aux truffes-larded, coated with a purée of truffles, breadcrumbed and fried; served with brown sauce. A purée of artichokes, asparagus, mushrooms, or turnips, may be used instead of truffles, and the name altered accordingly. en belle vue-larded with tongue, ham, or truffles, and braised; set in aspic and cut out. Served cold, with Mayonnaise sauce or Jardinière garnish. à l'aspic. Cutlets from a larded and roasted neck of lamb, coated with Provençale sauce, and served cold with aspic. à la Châtelaine-coated with a white sauce with Soubise sauce, and served cold with a compote of prunes or cherries, garnished with aspic.
Epigrammes d'agneau à l'ancienne are cutlets cut from a boned breast of lamb, half of them sauté, and half breadcrumbed and fried; served with small round slices of lamb in the centre with mushrooms and white sauce.
ENTRÉES.
Epigrammes d'agneau à la Dauphine are coated with white sauce before being breadcrumbed, and are served with a purée of green peas.
They are also served aux concombres, with dressed cucumber, or with any other vegetable garnish.
Tendrons d'agneau aux pointes d'asperges is a braised breast of lamb cut up and arranged in a crown alternately with fried slices of bread, with dressed asparagus in the centre.
Noisettes d'agneau à la Beatrice are little slices from the neck or loin, dressed with slices of cucumber on croûtes of fried bread. Served with brown sauce, and a garnish of potato balls, and artichoke bottoms filled with peas.
Filets d'agneau en belle vue are fillets ef lamb masked with Mayonnaise sauce, and served on an aspic border with a vegetable Mayonnaise in the centre.
Fricassée d'agneau à la Villeroi is a white fricassée of lamb, covered with breadcrumbs and grated cheese; à la Milanaise, it is dressed with macaroni.
Roulades d'agneau are thin slices of lamb, rolled, breadcrumbed and fried, and served on little skewers.
Blanquette d'agneau. Small round slices of lamb and of ham or tongue, with white sauce, parsley, etc.
It is sometimes served in a baked shape of rice, or in a croustade, or fried shape of bread.
Blanquette d'agneau à l'Indienne is a white curry of lamb; served with rice.
Blanquette d'agneau à la Viennet. Small square pieces of lamb in white sauce, with layers of pieces of hard-boiled eggs of the same size, covered with a cheese sauce.
Timbales à la Pompadour are little moulds lined with macaroni and filled with minced lamb or any white meat, steamed, and served with a white sauce.
Timbales en aspic à la Ménagère are little timbale moulds of mince, set in aspic. If made in cutlet moulds, the dish is called Chaudfroid de côtelettes à l'aspic.
Petites croustades à l'Italienne are little cases of rice dressed with tomato sauce, breadcrumbed and fried; filled with mince in white sauce, covered with whipped whites of eggs, and browned.
Minced lamb may also be made into cutlet shapes, coated with rice, breadcrumbed and fried, and served as Côtelettes de riz à la Turque; or the little cutlets may be dressed on croûtes of fried bread, and served with brown sauce and stuffed tomatoes as Côtelettes à l'Américaine.
Tongues, brains, tails and trotters, and then a long run of lamb cutlets. The page shows you where the English line was drawn, and in one place it states the rule outright.
- Trotters and the gentleman’s tableThe book pauses to say that sheep’s trotters are rarely seen at a gentleman’s table in England and are served far more often in France. It is a rare moment of the author giving a social rule instead of a definition, and it accounts for the French on everything else here.
- Tails take two stagesQueues de mouton are braised until the meat gives, then coated in rice, crumbed and fried. The long wet cooking does the work and the frying is for the look of the dish. The page supplies neither time nor temperature for either.
- Cutlets and the bare boneA côtelette d’agneau here is a single rib chop trimmed so the bone is clean, often stood up in a ring on the dish. That trimming, which a butcher now calls French-trimmed, is assumed throughout, and most of these dishes look wrong without it.
- Larding is sewing fat inLarded means strips of pork back fat threaded through the lean with a needle so the joint bastes itself from inside during a long dry cooking. Where the page says larded it is describing a technique that has all but vanished from home kitchens, not a flavour.
- Poulette and DuxellesThese are named sauces from the book’s own sauce chapter, not garnishes. Poulette is a velvet white sauce finished with egg yolk and lemon; Duxelles is chopped mushroom and shallot cooked down hard. A cutlet masked in Duxelles, crumbed and fried, is a dish a modern cook can follow once the words are opened up.
- Epigrammes are two things at onceEpigrammes d’agneau is cutlets cut from a boned breast of lamb, half of them sautéd and half crumbed and fried, served together on one dish. The pairing is the joke in the name. Lamb breast is still cheap, and this is the best use of it on the page.
The page is a ladder, and it climbs without a break. At the bottom are tongues, tails and trotters, the parts that went to the kitchen table and the servants’ hall. In the middle are brains baked in little soufflé cases, which is offal dressed to pass. At the top is a page of lamb cutlets with truffles, purées, aspic and paper frills. One animal, one cook, one afternoon, and three entirely different destinations in the same house. The cold entries are the most revealing: cutlets larded with tongue and truffle, braised, set in aspic and cut out with a cutter, served with a Jardinière garnish or a compote of prunes. Dishes like those are made to be looked at along a buffet before anybody eats them, and a household that produced them had a cold larder and somebody whose actual job, for part of each day, was decoration.