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Removes or Releves: Dinde
Dinde rôtie is a turkey roasted, and garnished with sausages. rôtie parfaite is stuffed with sausage-meat, chestnuts and truffles, and roasted. à la St. James is stuffed with sausage-meat and roasted. It has a brown sauce, and is served with currant jelly. à la purée de céleris-boiled, and served with celery sauce and slices of fried bacon; auиx marrons-with chestnut sauce. à la Chipolata-stuffed with sausage-meat and chestnuts, roasted, and served with Chipolata garnish. truffée - stuffed with forcemeat and truffles, roasted, and served with gravy and chopped truffles. à la Provençale-stuffed with onions, breadcrumbs, etc., roasted, and served with truffle or tomato sauce. en daube-larded and stewed; served cold, covered with the sauce. à la Yorkshire the legs are cut off, it is boned and stuffed with forcemeat and a tongue; braised, and served with white sauce and vegetables.
Dinde à la Sultane—the breast-bone removed, it is larded, roasted and glazed; served in a brown sauce, with sausages, balls of stuffing, and tomatoes.
A young turkey, roasted, is served as Dindonneau à la Duchesse, with a purée of cucumbers, garnished with quenelles, small pieces of tongue, and French beans.
Galantine de dinde is a braised galantine of turkey; it is served cold. Aux foies gras, it has fat livers of fowls added to the forcemeat.
PIGEONS.
Turkey, in the remove position, which is where the largest thing on the menu went. Every entry here is a whole bird carried to the table.
- What a remove wasThe relevé is the dish that removed the soup or the fish from the table — the big joint or bird that came in next and was carved in front of everyone. That position is why the page is all whole turkeys and no portions.
- No weights and no timesNot one entry gives either. The silence is not confidence, it is a different kind of knowledge: a cook judged a bird by its size in her own hands and her own oven, and she had roasted a hundred. Starting from here, you need a thermometer, and you are not cheating by using one.
- À la Yorkshire is a day’s workThe legs come off, the bird is boned, and it is stuffed with forcemeat and a whole tongue before braising. So is the galantine. This is several hours of careful knife work, and a butcher will bone a bird for you if you ask in advance, which is the only reason anyone makes these now.
- Sausage-meat means plain porkBoth recurring stuffings — sausage-meat, and sausage-meat with chestnuts — assume seasoned minced pork with its fat, not a flavoured sausage squeezed out of its skin. Modern sausages carry rusk, herbs and often sugar, and they will take the dish somewhere else.
- Chipolata is a set garnish, not a sausageThe page uses Chipolata for both a stuffing and a garnish and never explains either, because the cook was expected to know the combination it stood for. That is the real difficulty with this book: the names are pointers to things held in someone else’s head.
- Currant jelly with poultryServed with the turkey à la St. James, and with game throughout the book. The sweet preserve beside roast meat is the English habit that survived inside the French menu, and it is doing the same job as the cranberry on a modern table.
The remove was theatre. The bird arrived whole, and somebody at the table — usually the host — took it apart in front of the company, which is why its appearance mattered as much as its cooking and why so many of these are glazed, larded or decorated. The last entries point to the second act. The galantine and the daube are both served cold, which is how the same bird returned at supper or at the next day’s luncheon, in a form that admitted nothing about having been dinner.