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Removes or Releves: Chipolata-served
Oie rôtie is a roast goose, served with apple sauce in a sauce-boat. à la Mount Vernon is served with baked apples, and brown sauce with currant jelly. braisée à la Jardinière is braised, and served with brown sauce and Jardinière garnish. à la Chipolata-served with Chipolata sausages. à la purée d'oseille-served with Sorrel sauce. à l'orange-with slices of oranges and orange sauce. rôtie, farcie de marrons-stuffed with the liver, chestnuts, etc., and roasted. à la Portugaise-stuffed with slices of Portugal onions, etc., roasted, and served with stewed Portugal onions and a brown sauce. à l'Arlesienne-stuffed with onions, truffles, chestnuts, etc., braised in mirepoix, and served in tomato sauce. à la Dauphinoise-stuffed with chestnuts, etc., braised, and served in brown sauce with orange juice and shreds of orange peel. à la Royale-boned, stuffed and braised, and served in a brown sauce with anchovy and port wine.
Oie en daube is stuffed and braised, and is served cold covered with the sauce.
Pâté aux abatis d'oie is giblet pie.
Casserole aux abatis is a giblet pudding.
TURKEY.
Goose, in a chapter named after a slot in a sequence that no longer exists. A remove, or relevé, was the substantial dish brought in to take the place of the soup or the fish on the table.
- What a remove wasDishes were set out in groups, and as one was taken away another of the same size came in to fill the gap: it removed, or relieved, the dish before it. That is why this chapter is all large joints and whole birds while the entrée chapter is all small made dishes.
- GooseA goose must now be ordered, arrives frozen as often as not, and is eaten mostly at Christmas. It is also far fattier than any bird most cooks handle, and the fat is an asset rather than a nuisance: it renders out in quantity and keeps for months.
- ChipolataOn this page the word is a garnish, not a shape of sausage. À la Chipolata means the bird is sent up with small sausages round it. A chipolata now means a thin sausage and nothing more.
- Portugal onionsA large mild onion, used here both as a stuffing and as a garnish round the bird. What is sold as a Spanish onion is the nearest thing on the shelf, and the point of it is sweetness rather than size.
- GibletsThere are two whole dishes on this page built from what now comes in a bag inside the bird, or goes in the bin: a giblet pie and a giblet pudding. Neck, heart, gizzard and wing tips make a strong gravy and, stewed long enough, a filling.
- MirepoixBraising in mirepoix means setting the bird on a bed of cut vegetables and bacon that cooks down to almost nothing underneath it. The bed is a flavouring for the liquor rather than part of the dish, and it does not go to the table.
Ten versions of roast goose on one page, and what they tell you is that a single bird had to be able to appear repeatedly without looking repetitive. The variations are almost all in the stuffing and the sauce — chestnuts, sorrel, orange, Portugal onions, truffles, anchovy and port — while the bird underneath stays the same bird. The one entry that changes its substance, à la Royale, has the goose boned out entirely and stuffed, and that is the only genuinely difficult thing described here. Underneath the French the household is thrifty in a way the page never remarks on: the liver goes into the stuffing, the giblets become a pie and then a pudding, and what comes back cold reappears as oie en daube under its own set jelly.