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Italian Sauce, White
INGREDIENTS for sauce for good-sized dish.- pint of white stock, 2 tablespoonfuls of chopped mushrooms, 1 dessertspoonful of chopped shalots, 1 slice of ham, minced very fine; 1/4 pint of Béchamel; salt to taste, a few drops of garlic vinegar, 1/21 teaspoonful of pounded sugar, a squeeze of lemon-juice.
AVERAGE COST, 1s.
Put the shalots and mushrooms into a stewpan with the stock and ham and simmer very gently for 1/24 hour, when add the Béchamel. Let it just boil up and then strain it through a tammy; season with the above ingredients and serve very hot. If this sauce should not have retained a nice white colour, a little cream may be added.
TIME- hour. "Junkets and jellies and such dainty fare May all invited freely with me share." - OLD SONG.
JAM ROLY-POLY PUDDING.
JAMS, RECIPES FOR.
AM Roly-Poly following appear under their respective Pudding. - IN- headings:- GREDIENTS for Apple Jelly.
Gooseberry Jam, good-sized pud- Apple Jelly, Clear.
White or Green. ding.lb. of suetcrust, 3/4 lb. of any kind of jam. AVERAGE COST, 10d.
Make a nice Apricot Jam.
Carrot Jam.
Cherry Jam.
Currant Jam, Black.
Gooseberry Jelly.
Greengage Jam.
Orange Marmalade. a light suet-crust, Currant Jam, Red.
Currant Jelly, Black. and roll it out to the thickness of about inch. Spread the jam equally over it, leaving a small margin of paste without any where the pudding joins. Roll it up, fasten the JAM PUDDING.
Currant Jelly, Red.
Currant Jelly, White.
Damson Jam. ends securely and tie it in a floured cloth; put Gooseberry Jam.
Gooseberry Jam (Another Mode.) Orange Marmalade with Honey.
Plum Jam.
Quince Marmalade.
Raspberry Jam.
Raspberry and Currant Jam.
Raspberry Jelly.
Rhubarb Jam.
Rhubarb and Orange Jam.
Strawberry Jam. the pudding into boiling water and boil for 2 hours. Mincemeat or marmalade may be substituted for the jam.
TIME.-2 hours.
SEASONABLE. - Suitable for winter puddings, when fresh fruit is not obtainable. Jams, Jellies, Marmalades, Recipes for-Directions for making the Note. As in the case of bottled fruits, jam, and marmalade are not worth making at home, unless there is a large quantity of fruit in the garden. To begin with, there is a great deal of labour and time required to pick and prepare the fruit; and a still more important argument is that nothing is saved if the fruit has to be bought, although many consider good home-made jam better than any other. The jams prepared by Castell and Brown are excellent in quality, and no orange marmalade is superior to Keiller's.
JANUARY, DINNERS FOR. 196 JANUARY, DINNERS FOR.
January-Dinner for Twelve Persons.
MENU. (English.) Quantity. Average Mock Turtle Soup.
Turbot.
Whitebait.
Mutton Cutlets, with Spinach.
Hashed Game.
Roast Turkey.
Sausages.
Potatoes. Brussels Sprouts.
Mince Pies.
Vanilla Cream.
Lemon Jelly.
Turbot.
Blanchailles.
Cost.
MENU. (French.) s. d. 2 qts. 50 Consommé de Tête de Veau. 1 fish. 10 0 3 pints. 60 3lbs. 30 3 lbs. 06 2 dishes. 36 1 bird. 12 0 2 lbs. 18 3 lbs.ea. 0 10 12 10 1 mould. 20 1 mould. 16 £270 Cotelettes de Mouton aux Epinards.
Salmis de Gibier.
Dindon Roti.
Saucisses.
Pommes de Terre. Choux.
Mince Pies, Crême de Vanille.
Gelée au Citron.
January. Dinner for Ten Persons.
MENU. (English.) Quantity. Average Oyster Soup.
Cod, with Italian Sauce.
Chicken Croquets.
Stewed Kidneys.
Cost. 8. d. 3 pints. 50 4 lbs. 36 2 dishes. 30 Sirloin of Beef. 1 joint. 90 Potatoes. Savoys. 3lbs. 2 06 Pheasants. 2 birds. 70 Exeter Pudding. 1 40 Cream Eggs. 1 dish. 36 Cheese Soufflé. 1 16 £200 MENU. (French.) Potage aux Huitres.
Cabillaud à l'Italienne.
Croquettes de Volaille.
Rognons Etuvée.
Aloyau.
Pommes de Terre. Choux.
Faisans.
Pouding au Rhum.
Œuffs à la Crême.
Soufflé de Parmesan.
January-Dinner for Eight Persons.
MENU. (English.) Quantity. Average MENU. (French.) Purée de Gibier.
Turbot, Sauce Homard.
Vol-au-Vent aux Huitres.
Salmis de Coqs de Bruyère. 8. d.
Game Soup. 3 pints. 40 Turbot, 1 fish. 70 Lobster Sauce. 1 tur. 26 Vol-au-Vent of Oysters.
Salmi of Black Game. 1 60 1 dish. 50 Saddle of Mutton. 1 joint. 96 Potatoes. Sprouts. 3 lbs. ea. 09 Compôte of Apples. 1 dish.
Banana Fritters. 1 dish. 16 Cheese Straws. 1 dish.
Pailles de Parmesan. £1 19 0 Selle de Mouton.
Pommes de Terre. Choux.
Compôte de Pommes.
Beignets de Bananes.
JANUARY, DINNERS FOR. 197 JANUARY, DINNERS FOR.
January-Dinners for from Six to Twelve Persons.
N.
Julienne Soup.
Cod, Italian Sauce.
Sweetbreads.
Rissolettes of Hare.
Turkey.
Ham.
Potatoes.
Sprouts.
Rice Soufflé.
Valois Cream.
Mulligatawny Soup.
Baked Whiting.
Croquettes of Chicken.
Oyster Patties.
Loin of Mutton, Stuffed.
Potatoes.
Savoy.
Cabinet Pudding.
Liqueur Jelly.
Soup à la Reine.
Fried Soles, Anchovy Sauce.
Lobster Cream.
Salmi of Game.
Fillet of Beef.
Potatoes.
Brussels Sprouts.
Stuffed Olives.
Macaroni and Pineapple.
Plum Pudding.
ME NU Vermicelli Soup.
Cod, with Maître d'Hôtel Butter.
Mutton Cutlets.
Roast Fowls.
Sausages.
Potatoes. Sprouts.
Snipe.
Marbled Jellv.
French Rice Pudding.
JANUARY, DINNERS FOR. 198 JANUARY, DINNER TABLE, January-Plain Family Dinners for.
No 1.
No 2.
Sunday. Roast sirloin of beef, potatoes, Sunday. Roast turkey, sausages, potagreens, horseradish sauce. - Cold apple tart, custard, blancmange.
Monday. Soup. - Veal Cutlets. - Cold beef, mashed potatoes, salad. Cheese.
Tuesday. Cod fish and oyster sauce.-
A white Italian sauce in the Victorian sense: a reduction of stock with mushrooms, shallots and ham, finished with Béchamel and kept deliberately pale. It was served with boiled fish, cod above all, as the January menus on the same page show.
- Keeping it whiteThe whole point of the sauce is colour. Sweat the shallots, mushrooms and ham in the stock without letting them brown or the liquid reduce hard, and do not let the finished sauce boil more than the moment the original allows. If it dulls, a spoonful of cream restores it.
- Quantities as printedThe stock and the sugar measurements have lost their fractions in this edition. Working from the 1/4 pint of Béchamel, a good 1/2 pint of stock and a scant 1/2 teaspoon of sugar give the proportions the method implies; treat those as reconstructions rather than the author's figures.
- TimingThe simmer is short: the printed figure has lost its fraction but reads as a quarter of an hour -- long enough to draw flavour from mushroom, shallot and ham, not long enough to cook the stock down to a glaze. Once the Béchamel goes in, one rise to the boil only.
- White stockMeaning veal or chicken bones simmered without roasting, so the liquid stays pale. A light unsalted chicken stock is the practical substitute; brown stock will defeat the recipe.
- BéchamelMrs Beeton's Béchamel is a white roux sauce made with milk and a little of the same white stock, well seasoned and strained. About 150 ml of a medium-thick white sauce serves here.
- Garlic vinegarA Victorian storecupboard item: wine vinegar steeped with bruised garlic. A few drops of white wine vinegar with the merest scrape of garlic gives the same lift; the sauce should not taste of garlic outright.
- TammyA tammy is a worsted straining cloth, wrung between two people. A fine conical strainer, or a sieve lined with muslin, does the same work.
- The hamRaw cured ham or a piece of gammon will give more flavour than cooked pressed ham. Mince it very fine, as the recipe directs.
- YieldOn the reconstructed quantities, roughly 3/4 pint before any reduction. The original describes it only as 'sauce for a good-sized dish' and gives no number of servings.
Eighteenth- and nineteenth-century cookery kept two "Italian sauces", a brown and a white, both derived from the French repertoire's sauce italienne rather than from any Italian kitchen: the defining element is the duxelles-like base of finely chopped mushrooms and shallots, a formulation often traced to Carême and his followers and taken up in English books. The white version exists because Victorian fish cookery demanded pale sauces. Its place in this book is functional rather than decorative, and the January menus printed alongside it show why cod with Italian sauce appears twice in a single month's dinners, at a season when cod was cheap and plentiful and the kitchen needed something more interesting than plain butter to put over it.