Baked Fillets of Halibut

Four sentences of instruction that assume you already know what a fillet of halibut should look like when it is done. The single thing to control is time, because halibut has almost no fat to protect it.

• "A hot oven"Set it to 425-450F. At that heat the fish cooks through before the surface dries, which is the whole point of the short bake.
• Buttered paperParchment cut to the size of the pan and rubbed with soft butter does exactly what the original intends: it traps steam and keeps the top from drying. Foil works but gives a wetter result; buttered parchment is closer to the intent.
• Timing by thickness, not by clockTen to fifteen minutes suits fillets around an inch thick. Reckon roughly 10 minutes per inch at this temperature and check early — halibut goes from silky to cottony in about two minutes.
• How to tell it is doneThe flesh should just separate into flakes and still look slightly translucent at the very centre; an instant-read thermometer at the thickest point will show about 130-135F. Carryover heat finishes it while you plate.
• "Season"Salt and white or black pepper, and a squeeze of lemon if you like. Salt the fillets 10-15 minutes before baking so it has time to penetrate rather than sitting on the surface.
• The panShallow and only lightly buttered. A deep dish traps steam around the sides and effectively poaches the fish.
• HollandaiseMake it before the fish and hold it in a warm — not hot — water bath, off direct heat. It breaks above roughly 160F and cannot be reheated on the stove.
• YieldAllow 6-8 oz of halibut per person; a 2 lb piece cut into fillets serves four.