Mrs. Fryer's Loose Leaf Cook Book

The loose-leaf cookbook, c.1917 — built to be taken apart, from the principles of cookery through fireless cooking and school lunches.

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Crisp Gingerbread

1 pound flour 2/3 cup sugar 2/3 cup butter 1 tablespoon ginger 1 teaspoon cloves 1¼ teaspoon mace Grated rind of 1 lemon Molasses Cut and rub the butter into the flour and sugar until thoroughly mixed; add spices and lemon peel; mix thoroughly and moisten with molasses. Roll the dough very thin; cut into squares and bake in a hot oven.

CRULLERS (New England Doughnuts) 1 egg 1 cup sugar Cassia or nutmeg 1/4 teaspoons soda 1 teaspoon butter Flour 1 cup sour milk Beat the egg; add the sugar, flavoring to taste, butter, melted, and flour and milk alternately. Dissolve the soda in the milk, and mix all as lightly as possible. Use flour enough to make a soft dough; roll and fry in deep fat, hot enough to smoke but not too hot, or the crullers will brown and not be cooked through. Sweet milk and two tablespoons baking powder may be substituted for the sour milk and soda. 2 cups sugar 1 cup butter

For the Modern Kitchen

A rolled, cut and baked gingerbread snap rather than a soft cake — closer to a spice shortbread stiffened with molasses. The dough is deliberately dry, and the whole character of the thing depends on rolling it thin.

A Little History

Crisp gingerbreads of this sort — flour, sugar, butter, spice and treacle or molasses, rolled and cut — belong to the older branch of the gingerbread family, related to the hard spiced cakes long associated with English fairs and pressed into carved moulds. Softer, cakier gingerbreads became much more common once saleratus and then baking powder were in general use in the nineteenth century, though leavened and cake-like versions existed earlier with yeast or eggs. Molasses was the cheaper sweetener in many American kitchens, and a spice list running to ginger, cloves, mace and lemon peel suggests a well-stocked spice box. Recipes like this one, giving flour by the pound and molasses by no measure at all, assume a cook who knows what the dough should feel like under the hand.

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