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Fritter Batter
1 cup flour. 1/2 teaspoon salt. 2 teaspoons baking powder 1/2 cup milk 1 tablespoon olive oil 2 eggs Mix the dry ingredients thoroughly; add the milk, then the oil, and last the beaten eggs.
This is a bare-bones batter written for a cook who already knew the proportions, and as printed it is incomplete — the flour never made it onto the ingredient line. A few notes before you mix.
- The missing flour"Mix the dry ingredients" implies flour and salt that the list omits. For 1/2 cup milk, 2 eggs and 2 teaspoons baking powder, about 1 cup of flour and 1/4 teaspoon salt gives a coating batter of the right thickness; this is an inference from the liquid, not something the original states.
- Too much baking powder for the flourBaking powder -- Two teaspoons to a cup of flour is high by modern standards, where 1 to 1 1/4 teaspoons per cup is more usual — though the cup of flour is itself an inference here. Period baking powders varied in strength and composition, so reduce it if you find a metallic aftertaste.
- Order of mixingThe beaten eggs go in last, which may be meant to keep some of the air beaten into them; the recipe does not say why. Fold rather than beat once the eggs go in, and stop while the batter still looks slightly lumpy.
- Olive oilOlive oil in this period was commonly sold in drugstores for medicinal use as well as for cooking, and was generally milder than a modern peppery extra-virgin, which will assert itself in a delicate fritter; use a light olive oil or a neutral oil instead. The recipe specifies no grade.
- ConsistencyIt should coat the back of a spoon and drip slowly, not pour. Vegetables that are wet — squash, tomato, cooked greens — will thin it in the bowl, so mix a shade thick and dry the vegetables first.
- Frying temperatureThe book gives none. Fry at 365-375F: cooler and the batter drinks fat, hotter and the coating colours before the vegetable inside is done. Fry in small batches so the oil does not crash.
- YieldEnough to coat roughly 1 to 1 1/2 lb of prepared vegetables, depending on how much flour you add. Use it promptly, while the baking powder is still active.
The batter appears in the vegetable section because that is where it earned its keep: dipping and frying turned cauliflower, salsify, parsnip, eggplant and leftover corn into a course that could carry a meal. The omission of the flour looks like a dropped line. The use of oil rather than melted butter is the more interesting detail: olive oil was a less usual choice than butter in American home kitchens of the period, and it keeps the batter tender without setting hard as butter can.