Mrs. Fryer's Loose Leaf Cook Book

The loose-leaf cookbook, c.1917 — built to be taken apart, from the principles of cookery through fireless cooking and school lunches.

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Lemon Cream Pie

1/2 cup milk 1½ teaspoons cornstarch Juice and grated rind of 1 lemon Yolks of 3 eggs Whites of 3 eggs 3 tablespoons sugar Bake the pie crust first. Heat the milk; add next four ingredients as in making custard; pour this, boiling, upon the whites, beaten light and mixed with the three tablespoons of sugar. Pour into the crust and brown slightly in a hot oven.

For the Modern Kitchen

This page came out of a loose-leaf book, and it shows: the ingredient list has been jumbled and the tail end (1 cup sugar, 2 tablespoons flour, 1½ cup molasses) almost certainly belongs to the recipe that sat beside it on the sheet. Read it as a boiled lemon custard poured over sweetened beaten whites, in a pre-baked shell.

A Little History

Lemon cream pies of this type sit between two older English forms: the lemon curd tart and the boiled milk custard. What distinguishes this version is the technique of pouring the boiling custard over beaten egg whites rather than piling a separate meringue on top and baking it — the whites are cooked by the custard's own heat and become part of the filling, giving a light, foamy body throughout instead of a distinct meringue cap. The result is closer to what many nineteenth-century books called a "cream" pie. Its apparent appearance under Cakes rather than a pastry chapter would be a reminder of how loosely these categories were kept, and the recipe's confused state is characteristic of loose-leaf cook books, a format that made recipes easy to swap and easy to scramble.

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