Mrs. Fryer's Loose Leaf Cook Book

The loose-leaf cookbook, c.1917 — built to be taken apart, from the principles of cookery through fireless cooking and school lunches.

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Roast Chicken (Time necessary for roasting)

The time necessary for roasting a chicken depends on the age of the bird. One hour and a half is sufficient for a young chicken, but an older one should be roasted two hours, and a very tough chicken three hours. If this course is followed, old chickens will turn out as tender and savory as spring chickens. Prepare the chicken in the usual method for the oven. It will not be necessary to heat the chicken to brown it before it has been placed in the cooker, for if both radiators have been made very hot the chicken when roasted will be nicely browned. It is not necessary to open the cooker for basting as the hot steam prevents burning.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

This is not oven roasting. It belongs to the fireless-cooker section of the book: a whole bird is set into an insulated box with preheated iron or soapstone discs ("radiators") above and below, the lid is shut, and the box is left alone for one to three hours with no further heat added. That method is the reason the instructions cannot be followed today.

A Little History

Fireless cookery had a real vogue in American and European households from roughly 1900 through the First World War, and cookbooks of the period not uncommonly carried a chapter on it. The principle is that of the Norwegian hay box: bring food to temperature on the range, then transfer it to a heavily insulated chest so that stored heat finishes the cooking without further fuel. Manufactured cookers, lined with materials such as felt, mineral wool or ground cork and fitted with soapstone or cast-iron discs to be heated on the stove, were sold as a way to save fuel, keep a summer kitchen cool, and free the cook from watching a pot, and interest in them rose again during wartime fuel economy campaigns. The confident promise here that an old chicken will come out like a spring chicken reflects a period preoccupation with tough mature fowl, which were the ordinary bird in a market not yet reorganised around fast-growing young broilers. This recipe itself argues that the sealed box cannot scorch or burn its contents; bacteriological understanding of the danger zone in poultry was still decades from reaching the household kitchen.

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