Mrs. Fryer's Loose Leaf Cook Book

The loose-leaf cookbook, c.1917 — built to be taken apart, from the principles of cookery through fireless cooking and school lunches.

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Sally Lunn

1 cake compressed yeast 1 tablespoon sugar 2 cups milk, scalded and cooled 1 teaspoon salt 4 tablespoons melted butter 2 eggs 4 cups sifted flour Dissolve the yeast and one tablespoon of sugar in the lukewarm milk. Add butter, then flour gradually, eggs well beaten, and last, the salt. Beat until perfectly smooth; pour into well-greased pans; cover and let rise in a warm place, free from draft, until double in bulk-about one and one half hours. Sprinkle granulated sugar over the top and bake twenty minutes in a hot oven. Serve hot; break apart with fork.

This recipe will fill two medium-sized cake pans. 1 cake compressed yeast

For the Modern Kitchen

A yeast-raised batter bread rather than a kneaded loaf — the mixture should pour, not be turned out and worked. A few of the original's terms need translating.

A Little History

Sally Lunn is generally traced to Bath, England, in the eighteenth century, where the name attached to a large, light, faintly sweet yeast bread served warm with butter at the spa's tea rooms. The origin of the name is disputed: one tradition claims a baker or hawker of that name, another derives it from the French solilemme or from soleil et lune, sun and moon, for the golden top and pale crumb — both to be taken as folklore. The bread crossed to America early and became a fixture of Southern baking, where it evolved into exactly this form: a beaten batter rather than a kneaded dough, poured into pans or a tube mould and raised once. In a loose-leaf cook book of the 1910s and 1920s, compressed yeast sold in foil-wrapped cakes was the ordinary household leaven, delivered fresh and kept only a few days.

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