Venison Steak

A three-line recipe that depends almost entirely on not overcooking the meat. Venison is far leaner than beef, and the half-inch cut leaves very little margin.

• The hinge: pull it earlyFarmed or wild venison loin has almost no intramuscular fat, so it dries and turns liver-like within a minute of passing medium. A half-inch steak over high heat wants roughly 2 to 3 minutes a side, to an internal 130-135F, then a five-minute rest.
• "A bright fire"This means a hot, clear bed of coals with no smoke or flame licking the meat. A cast-iron grill pan or a broiler element preheated for a full 10 minutes gives the equivalent; you want the surface searing on contact.
• Turning frequentlyContrary to modern grilling folklore, frequent turning is correct here. It cooks a thin lean steak more evenly and reduces the grey band under the crust.
• Butter the size of an eggA common nineteenth-century measure, usually reckoned at somewhere between 1 and 2 ounces (2 to 4 tablespoons). Paired with a tablespoon of jelly it makes a small amount of sauce, enough for a few steaks.
• Red pepperIn American books of this period this is cayenne, not paprika and not sweet peppers. A pinch is enough; it is there to cut the sweetness of the jelly.
• Currant jellyRed currant jelly, still sold for exactly this purpose. Melt it with the butter over low heat and swirl rather than boil, or the butter breaks and the sauce goes greasy. A splash of the pan juices or a spoonful of port helps it emulsify.
• Season after cookingThe recipe salts at the end. Modern practice often argues that salting a fast, lean cut well ahead draws moisture to the surface and works against the crust, though the book gives no reason of its own.
• YieldThe recipe states none. As a rough modern guide, 6 to 8 ounces of steak per person; the sauce as written is a small quantity and will stretch over only a few servings.