Picnic Eggs (Deviled)

A deviled-egg filling with no quantities given, written for cooks who seasoned by taste. The distinguishing feature is the packaging: the halves are reassembled into whole eggs and twisted into paper for transport.

• Working proportionsFor six hard-cooked eggs, figure about 1 tablespoon soft butter, 1 to 2 teaspoons prepared mustard, 2 teaspoons vinegar, and salt and pepper to taste; or replace the butter and vinegar with 2 to 3 tablespoons mayonnaise. Add liquid a little at a time -- the filling must stay stiff enough to hold the two halves together.
• Hard-cookingCover the eggs with cold water, bring just to a boil, cover and hold off the heat 10 to 12 minutes, then chill in cold water. A hard boil throughout is what produces the grey-green ring and the rubbery white this recipe cannot hide.
• Potted hamPotted ham was a pounded, seasoned, butter-sealed ham paste, made at home or sold in small jars or tins. Commercial deviled ham spread is its closest modern equivalent; finely minced ham or prosciutto with a little butter also works.
• Oiled paperOiled paper was kitchen paper brushed with oil to keep it from sticking. Use parchment or waxed paper squares, or twist each egg in plastic wrap, which grips better and does not unwind in a basket.
• Press, do not overfillMound the filling only slightly above the cut edge. Overfilled halves squeeze out at the seam when pressed and the paper does the rest of the damage on the way to the picnic.
• Keeping them coldFilled eggs need to stay at or below 40F and should not sit out more than about two hours. Pack them in a chilled hard container with ice; the original recipe was written for a period that accepted more risk than we do.
• YieldSix eggs give twelve halves, reassembled into six whole eggs -- enough for three or four people as part of a larger picnic spread.