French Toast

This is not the custard-soaked French toast of the modern brunch menu but a batter-dipped fried bread, closer to a fritter. The batter is thin and leavened, and it behaves accordingly.

• The hinge: fat temperatureThe batter contains baking powder, so it needs to hit fat hot enough to set the coating immediately — 365-375F. Cooler fat and the batter slides off the bread and soaks through; hotter and the outside colors before the inside cooks.
• "Hot fat" and how muchThe original says only "hot fat" and "drain on paper," which suggests but does not specify deep frying; either method works. About 1 inch of neutral oil in a heavy pan, or 2 to 3 inches for full immersion. Shallow frying means turning each slice once.
• The breadUse bread a day old and cut about 1/2 inch thick. Fresh soft sandwich bread collapses under a wet batter; sturdy white bread or a plain enriched loaf holds up. Crusts on or off is a matter of taste.
• Batter consistencyHalf a cup of flour to half a cup of milk plus an egg gives a thin coating batter, roughly the thickness of heavy cream. If it runs off the bread without clinging, add flour a spoonful at a time; do not let it sit long, or the baking powder spends itself.
• "Drain on paper"In kitchens of the period this meant brown paper or newspaper. Use paper towels or a wire rack set over a sheet pan — a rack keeps the underside from steaming soft.
• Royal Baking PowderThis is a manufacturer's cookbook, so the brand is named throughout. Any modern double-acting baking powder works in the same quantity.
• Yield and servingThe batter coats roughly six to eight slices. It is unsweetened, so serve with syrup, honey, jam or cinnamon sugar; it also takes savory treatment with ham or a fried egg.