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Ices and Ice Creams (Chop pineapple very fine Add)
1. Chop pineapple very fine. 2. Add pineapple to syrup and lemon juice. 3. Freeze the same as lemon ice.
Strawberry Ice. 1 qt. water 1 qt. strawberries 2 C. sugar 1/4 C. lemon juice 1. Rub berries through colander. 2. Add to remaining ingredients and make the same as lemon ice.
Note. If whole fruit of any kind is to be added to any frozen dessert, it must first be preserved in sugar syrup or in alcohol to take up the water. Otherwise the pieces of fruit will be hard lumps of ice when the cream is frozen.
Sherbets.
To any of the recipes for fruit ices add one stiffly beaten egg white when the mixture is half frozen. Stir in the egg white thoroughly with a long handled wooden spoon, then finish freezing.
Philadelphia Vanilla Ice Cream. 1 pt. cream + t. salt 1 pt. milk 1 T. vanilla 1 C. sugar 1. Mix ingredients together. 2. Stir until sugar is dissolved then freeze.
French Vanilla Ice Cream. 2 C. scalded milk 1 egg C. sugar 1 pt. cream + t. salt 1 T. vanilla 1. Beat egg and add sugar and salt. 2. Add the scalded milk, while stirring. 3. Pour into double boiler and cook ten minutes, stirring constantly. 4. When cool, add the cream and vanilla. 5. Turn into freezer and freeze.
Note. If the cream is thick enough to whip, put one-half of it into the upper part of the double boiler, put cold water in the lower part, then beat the cream with Dover egg beater until thick. Stir this into the custard when the custard is half frozen. This will make a much smoother ice cream.
Chocolate Ice Cream. 1. Add two squares of melted chocolate to the hot custard in recipe for French vanilla ice cream. 2. Cool and freeze.
Strawberry Ice Cream.
Mash 2 C. of strawberries with 1. C. sugar and add to either recipe for vanilla ice cream.
Apricot Ice Cream. 1/2 lb. dried apricots. 1 pt. cream 2 C. sugar 1/4 t. salt 2 C. scalded milk 2 eggs 1. Pick over and wash apricots. 2. Cover with water and let stand several hours. 3. Put on to cook in water in which they were soaked. 4. Simmer until soft, then rub through colander. 5. Make custard of sugar, milk, salt and eggs. 6. Add cream and freeze. 7. When half frozen stir in the apricot pulp and finish freezing.
Note. Almost any dried fruit may be used.
Frozen Rice Pudding.
C. rice 1 qt. milk 1 egg 1 C. sugar 1 T. vanilla 1 C. figs chopped fine 1. Cook rice in milk in upper part of double boiler for of an hour. 2. Beat egg, add sugar and salt. 3. Stir the rice and milk into the egg, then return the mixture to the double boiler and cook for five minutes. 4. Cool, add vanilla and chopped figs and freeze.
Raspberry Mousse. 1 qt. cream 1½ T. granulated gelatine C. water 3 C. raspberries 1 C. sugar 1. Wash and pick over berries. 2. Add sugar and let stand one hour. 3. Rub through a fruit sieve. 4. Add water to gelatine. 5. Let stand ten minutes then set bowl into hot water until gelatine is dissolved. 6. Add gelatine to raspberries and stir until mixture begins to thicken, then fold in the stiffly beaten cream. 7. Put into a mold, cover tightly and pack in ice and salt. (1 part salt to 2 parts ice.) Let stand four hours. 278
A run of frozen desserts from a home-economics manual, written for a hand-crank freezer packed with ice and rock salt. The chemistry is sound; only the equipment and a few conventions need translating.
- The note on whole fruit is the hingeSugar syrup or alcohol draws water out of fruit pieces so they stay soft at freezing temperatures. Skip it and berries or pineapple chunks turn into gritty ice pellets, exactly as the book warns. Purées, being spread through the base, do not need this treatment.
- Ice and salt ratiosFor churning, pack roughly 1 part rock salt ("ice cream salt") to 3 parts crushed ice; the mousse, which is still-frozen in a mould, wants the colder 1:2 mixture the recipe specifies. Table salt works but dissolves too fast and is wasteful at these volumes.
- If you are using a modern machineChill any custard base thoroughly — at least four hours, ideally overnight — then churn 20 to 25 minutes. "When half frozen" in these recipes corresponds to the point where the base has thickened to soft-serve and the paddle leaves a clear track.
- Cooking the French custardCook to about 175F, when it coats the back of a spoon, rather than trusting the flat ten minutes. A double boiler makes this forgiving, but a single egg in two cups of milk is a thin custard and will still scramble if left unstirred.
- Salt and other part-measuresSeveral of the salt quantities are given as a fraction that has not survived legibly in this printing. A quarter teaspoon per quart of base is the standard proportion and is what the apricot recipe states; use that throughout.
- Chocolate squaresA "square" is one ounce of unsweetened baking chocolate, so two squares is 2 oz. Melt it and whisk it into the hot custard, not the cold, or it will seize into specks.
- Dover egg beaterA geared rotary hand beater. A balloon whisk or an electric mixer does the same work; the point of the instruction is to whip the cream over cold water so it stays firm, then fold it into the half-frozen custard for a smoother texture.
- Gelatine for the mousse1 1/2 tablespoons of granulated gelatine is about two of today's quarter-ounce envelopes. Bloom it in cold water for ten minutes before warming, and stop stirring the raspberry mixture as soon as it begins to set or the folded cream will deflate.
- Raw egg white in the sherbetsThe beaten white is folded into a cold, unheated base and never cooked. If you want that lift, use pasteurized whites, and avoid serving it to anyone pregnant, elderly, very young or immune-compromised.
- Yield and keepingThe ice creams make roughly 1 1/2 quarts, six to eight servings; the water ices, built on a quart of liquid plus fruit and sugar, make more. With no stabilizers or corn syrup, they set very hard and grow coarse overnight; serve the day they are made, and let them stand ten minutes at room temperature before scooping.
"Philadelphia" ice cream is the old American term for a frozen dessert built on cream, sugar and flavouring alone, with no egg — distinguished, as here, from "French" ice cream thickened with a cooked custard. Both names were in general use in American cookery writing by the later nineteenth century and carried over into domestic-science teaching, which is why a student manual can set them side by side as a contrast. The chapter also reflects a moment when ice cream was still labour: the rock-salt-and-ice freezer, the packed mould left to stand four hours, the careful note about water in fruit turning to ice crystals. Delivered household ice was widely available by this period and electric refrigeration was not yet in most homes, so a school kitchen taught the salt-and-ice bath as a matter of course.