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Ammonia Cocktail
A Great Bracer.
Aromatic Spirits of Ammonia, 2 dashes; Orange Syrup, 1 ounce; Bicarbonate of Soda, ½ teaspoonful. Plain soda to fill a mineral glass ⅔ full. Add the bicarbonate of soda last, stir with a spoon, serve quickly.
This is a dispensing-counter formula from the era when the soda fountain and the pharmacy were the same counter, and its active ingredient is a drug rather than a flavouring. The notes below explain the vessels and terms, and why the drink cannot be assembled today.
- Aromatic spirits of ammonia is the problemIt is a pharmaceutical solution of ammonium carbonate with ammonia water, alcohol and aromatic oils — the same class of preparation as smelling salts. Swallowed rather than sniffed, ammonia solution is a caustic alkali: even dilute doses can irritate the mouth, oesophagus and stomach, and the strength of any bottle labelled this way is not a culinary quantity. No amount of syrup and soda turns it into a beverage ingredient.
- "Two dashes" is not a doseA fountain dash was whatever came out of the shaker-top bottle, on the order of an eighth to a quarter teaspoonful, and it varied from clerk to clerk. Measuring a drug by an undefined splash is no measurement at all.
- The bicarbonate is there for effervescenceHalf a teaspoonful of bicarbonate of soda added last, into charged water, gives the rush of gas that made the drink feel like a restorative. Adding it last and serving quickly is the whole theatrical point — it does nothing to neutralise the ammonia.
- "A great bracer"In fountain language a bracer was a hangover or fatigue remedy sold across the counter alongside phosphates and egg drinks. It signals a medicinal claim, not a flavour profile.
- Mineral glassA straight-sided fountain glass, probably in the region of 10 to 12 ounces; filled two-thirds, that is roughly six or seven ounces of liquid in all, the ounce of syrup included. "Plain soda" means unsweetened, unflavoured charged water drawn from the fountain.
- Orange syrupThe fountain article was generally a heavy sugar syrup flavoured with sweet orange oil, often with citric acid added, and likely sweeter and more concentrated than modern orange squash or cordial. One ounce is two tablespoons.
- If you want the drinkAn orange syrup soda finished with bicarbonate is an ordinary fountain formula in its own right, and any current soda-fountain or phosphate recipe will give you one. The ammonia belongs in the history section, not the glass.
Until the middle of the twentieth century the American soda fountain sat inside the drugstore, and its counter books moved without comment between confections and prescriptions ".