The American Soda Book of Receipts and Suggestions

About a thousand formulas for the soda fountain — syrups, phosphates, egg drinks, ice-cream sodas and “fancy drinks” — with hints on installing and running a fountain, from the company that sold them.

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Beef Bouillon Solution

Six ounces American Liquid Beef, ½ ounce powdered mustard, 1 dram black pepper, 10 drops American Herb Bouquet, 1 dram powdered celery, 2 drams bay leaves, 2 ounces salt. Hot water enough to make 1 pint. Mix thoroughly and let stand till cool. Strain through cheese cloth, and use 1 tablespoonful to each glass of bouillon served.

For the Modern Kitchen

This is a fountain concentrate, not a soup: a pint of heavily salted beef-extract solution meant to be dosed a spoonful at a time into hot water. Everything hinges on the dilution rate, so measure the tablespoon rather than eyeballing it.

A Little History

Hot beef bouillon was a staple of the American soda fountain around the turn of the twentieth century, when fountains began pushing hot drinks to keep a counter busy through the winter as well as the summer. The trade depended on commercial meat extracts, descendants of the beef essences popularised by Justus von Liebig's company in the 1860s and marketed as both a restorative and a convenience; fountain supply houses sold branded versions of the separate components, so the operator only had to blend and dilute — which is presumably where names like "American Liquid Beef" and "American Herb Bouquet" come from, though whether both came from the same house is not something the recipe tells us. Beef tea carried a strong association with invalid cookery and nourishment, which suited a counter attached to a pharmacy, and its savoury heat gave temperance-minded customers something to order that was neither sweet nor alcoholic. The compounding style here, with drams and drops and a strain through cheesecloth, is the pharmacist's hand rather than the cook's.

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