The American Soda Book of Receipts and Suggestions

About a thousand formulas for the soda fountain — syrups, phosphates, egg drinks, ice-cream sodas and “fancy drinks” — with hints on installing and running a fountain, from the company that sold them.

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Boston Flip

One-half ounce lemon syrup, 1 ounce pineapple syrup, 1 egg; ¼ glass cracked ice. Shake, strain, toss and serve with nutmeg or cinnamon.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

This is a soda-fountain flip: a whole raw egg shaken with fruit syrups and ice, strained, and dusted with spice. The technique is straightforward, but the egg is never heated at any point, which is why the drink cannot be recommended as written.

A Little History

The flip began as a hot tavern drink “— ale or cider with spirit, sugar and often a beaten egg, heated by plunging in a loggerhead iron straight from the fire — and the name is generally traced to that frothing or "flipping" up of the mixture. By the time soda fountains dominated American counters in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, the form had been stripped of both heat and alcohol: the egg stayed, because it was what gave the drink its body and crown of foam, and the syrups replaced the liquor. City names were attached freely to such formulas, though what a "Boston" flip was meant to signal is not clear from the page itself. The generous use of raw egg across the whole genre is a reminder that egg drinks were sold as nourishment for invalids — at a period when the bacteriology of the shell egg was not part of the counterman's training.

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