The American Soda Book of Receipts and Suggestions

About a thousand formulas for the soda fountain — syrups, phosphates, egg drinks, ice-cream sodas and “fancy drinks” — with hints on installing and running a fountain, from the company that sold them.

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Currant Syrup

American Concentrated Syrup, 1 quart; Plain Syrup, 2 quarts; Fruit Acid, 1 ounce.

For the Modern Kitchen

This is a fountain formula rather than a kitchen recipe: three components blended cold, in the proportions a dispenser would scale up by the gallon. The only real work is knowing what the trade names meant.

A Little History

Soda fountain manuals like this one are essentially trade handbooks: the dispenser bought flavoring concentrates from a supply house and his job was to cut, acidify and hold them correctly, which is why the "recipe" is three lines of proportions and no method. Fruit acid appears in nearly every fruit formula in such books because carbonated water alone tastes flat against sugar; the tartness that made a currant or raspberry syrup read as fruit came largely from added citric or tartaric acid rather than the fruit itself. Currants — red and black Ribes — were a common European garden and market fruit and were widely grown in the northeastern United States in the nineteenth century, though cultivation there fell away in the early twentieth as Ribes plantings were restricted on account of white pine blister rust, which is generally credited with driving the fruit out of the American commercial repertoire. That decline is part of why currant, once a standard fountain flavor alongside lemon and raspberry, is now an unfamiliar one in the United States while remaining ordinary in Britain and northern Europe.

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