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Frosted Egg-Nog
A Noted Success.
One gallon sweet milk, 1½ gallon pure cream, 12 eggs, 1 pound sugar, 2 ounces sherry wine, 2 ounces Jamaica rum, 2 ounces French brandy. Beat eggs and sugar together, mix with milk and cream, stir well, add flavorings and freeze. Serve in a sherbet cup with a spoonful of whipped cream.
This is a soda-fountain freezer recipe from the era when a druggist made his own ice cream in a hand-cranked or brine freezer. As written it is a raw-egg custard that is never heated, and that is the reason it cannot be made today.
- Raw eggs, never cookedTwelve eggs are beaten with sugar, mixed into cold milk and cream, and frozen. Nothing in the process reaches a temperature that would kill Salmonella. Freezing suspends bacteria; it does not destroy them, and the thawed spoonfuls at the edge of the cup are an ideal growth medium.
- The alcohol does nothingSix ounces of spirits spread through roughly two and a half gallons of base is well under one percent by volume. Traditional aged eggnog relies on far higher alcohol concentrations held for weeks; this is a flavouring, not a preservative. A current recipe using a cooked custard base or pasteurised eggs should be used instead.
- ScaleOne gallon of milk plus a gallon and a half of cream, before overrun from churning, is a commercial batch -- on the order of eighty to a hundred sherbet cups at about four ounces each. A quantity on this scale points to a formula written for a shop rather than a household.
- "Sweet milk"Simply fresh whole milk, named to distinguish it from sour milk or buttermilk, which nineteenth-century kitchens kept as a separate working ingredient.
- "Freeze"In this period this meant packing the can in a churn surrounded by cracked ice and rock salt and cranking until stiff. There is no cooking step anywhere in the instruction -- the word covers the entire process.
- Jamaica rum and French brandyPeriod trade terms rather than brands: dark, heavily estery pot-still rum from Jamaica, and Cognac-type grape brandy. Both dilution and freezing blunt flavour considerably.
Soda fountains of the 1890s and 1900s were attached to drugstores, and the dispenser was expected to produce ice creams, sherbets and "frosted" drinks with the same precision he brought to a prescription. Frozen eggnog belongs to a small family of holiday flavours that let a fountain sell a Christmas taste in a glass -- eggnog is usually traced to the English posset tradition of eggs, milk and fortified wine, and by the eighteenth century American versions commonly used rum from the Caribbean trade in place of sherry and Madeira. The three spirits here are used at flavouring strength, which mattered commercially: a druggist could offer the taste of a punch bowl without running a bar.