The American Soda Book of Receipts and Suggestions

About a thousand formulas for the soda fountain — syrups, phosphates, egg drinks, ice-cream sodas and “fancy drinks” — with hints on installing and running a fountain, from the company that sold them.

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Hot Peptonized Beef Tea

About 5 grains crystal pepsin, ½ ounce boiling water. Dissolve, then add cupful hot soda. Serve with pepper and salt. 1 teaspoonful beef bouillon, I

For the Modern Kitchen

A winter fountain drink rather than a kitchen recipe: hot beef broth dispensed from the soda fountain's hot-water draught, with a pinch of digestive enzyme stirred in. The text as printed is scrambled, with the bouillon measure stranded at the end.

A Little History

Soda fountains of the 1890s and 1900s lost trade every winter, and the answer was a hot menu: beef tea, clam bouillon, hot malted milk and hot chocolate drawn from urns beside the syrup pumps. "Peptonized" was a fashionable word in the same decades, borrowed from invalid cookery, where milk and beef preparations were treated with pepsin or pancreatic extract so that the protein arrived already partly broken down — a practice generally traced to the digestion experiments of the mid-nineteenth century and heavily promoted by pharmaceutical houses selling peptonizing powders and tubes. Since the druggist and the fountain shared a counter, adding a few grains of crystal pepsin to a cup of beef extract cost almost nothing and let the clerk sell an ordinary hot bouillon as something medicinal. Beef tea itself was the standard nourishment for the sick and the convalescent throughout the Victorian period, credited with far more sustaining power than its actual protein content warrants.

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