The American Soda Book of Receipts and Suggestions

About a thousand formulas for the soda fountain — syrups, phosphates, egg drinks, ice-cream sodas and “fancy drinks” — with hints on installing and running a fountain, from the company that sold them.

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Iced Tea (Two ounces best Ceylon tea)

Two ounces best Ceylon tea, over this pour 1 gallon boiling water. Stand for five minutes and strain off the tea leaves. When cold pour into large punch bowl which contains a large piece of ice, add sugar to taste, squeeze in the juice of 6 lemons, and add in the bowl 2 lemons in very thin slices. Use a ladle, serve in an 8-ounce mineral glass and add a little shaved ice, a slice of lemon and serve with a straw. Use odd moments to keep the silver bright.

For the Modern Kitchen

A fountain-scale tea punch, built in a bowl rather than a pitcher. The proportions are sound; the only real trap is the order of operations with the ice.

A Little History

Iced tea belongs to the soda fountain as much as to the tea table. American drugstore fountains were selling cold tea punches by the bowl alongside phosphates and egg drinks, and the format here — a big block of ice, a ladle, a lemon slice and a straw — is fountain service rather than home service. The specification of Ceylon tea may well reflect the commercial landscape: Sri Lankan black tea flooded into the American market in the late nineteenth century, sold hard as clean, machine-made and cheap against Chinese and Japanese green teas, and it brews the brisk, dark liquor that survives ice and sugar. The popular story that iced tea was invented at the 1904 St. Louis World's Fair is traditional and does not hold up; recipes for iced and sweetened tea punches appear in American cookbooks decades earlier. What the fair and books like this one did was make it a standard item sold across a counter.

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