Jellied Beef Bouillon

A cold consommé from the era when a jellied first course was standard summer entertaining. Two things decide whether it works: the strength of the cubes and the firmness of the set.

• Bouillon cubes have changedA modern cube or teaspoon of concentrate is meant for one cup of water, so four cubes make a quart at today's standard strength; six will likely taste very salty.
• Gelatin quantityTwo tablespoons of plain gelatin is between two and two and a half of today's ¼-oz envelopes. In a quart of liquid that should be firm enough to cut into cubes while thoroughly chilled, but it may slump at room temperature; for clean-edged dice that hold on the plate, use three envelopes.
• Bloom, then dissolveLet the gelatin stand in the cold water for five minutes until it swells before stirring it into the hot bouillon. Dropping dry granules into boiling liquid gives you lumps that never disperse.
• Do not keep it boilingStir the gelatin in off the heat or as the pan comes off the boil. Prolonged boiling after the gelatin goes in can degrade its setting strength.
• "Place on ice"Chill thoroughly, whether on ice or in the refrigerator: at least four hours, or overnight for a shallow mold you intend to cut.
• Rinsing the moldThe cold-water rinse is not decorative — the film of water keeps the jelly from gripping the metal, so it releases in one piece. A shallow pan gives you a slab about an inch deep, which dices easily with a knife dipped in hot water.
• Seasoning cold foodTaste the hot liquid slightly over-seasoned. Chilling mutes both salt and the lemon; the nutmeg, by contrast, holds up and can dominate if you go past the quarter teaspoon.
• Yield and serviceServes four to six as a first course. Keep it refrigerated until the moment of serving and chill the bouillon cups — the cubes begin to soften within minutes in a warm room.