The Boston Cooking-School Cook Book

The book that taught America to measure. Fannie Farmer's 1896 classic replaced the pinch, the lump and the teacup of the old receipts with the level cup and the level spoon — and then filled eight hundred pages with what to do next.

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Flour (Teaspoons baking powder)

1¼ teaspoons baking powder ¼ teaspoon salt Whites 4 eggs 1 teaspoon lemon extract Beat yolks of eggs and water until thick and lemoncolored, add sugar gradually, and beat two minutes. Put corn-starch in a cup and fill cup with flour. Mix and sift corn-starch and flour with baking powder and salt, and add to first mixture. When thoroughly mixed add whites of eggs beaten until stiff, and flavoring. Bake thirty minutes in a moderate oven. This is an excellent mixture to use for whipped cream pies or to bake in an angel cake pan.

For the Modern Kitchen

This is a hot-water sponge cake, and the page as printed has lost the head of its ingredient list — the sugar, water, cornstarch and flour quantities are gone. What survives is enough to identify the method but not enough to bake from without a full copy of the recipe.

A Little History

Fannie Farmer's Boston Cooking-School Cook Book included a series of sponge cakes -- sunshine cake, angel cake and others -- that share a single logic: eggs beaten separately, sugar, a small quantity of soft flour cut with cornstarch, and little or no butter. They belong to the era of reliable baking powder, cheap refined cornstarch, and the Boston Cooking School's level-measurement gospel. The closing note that it is "an excellent mixture to use for whipped cream pies" suggests such a batter could be baked in shallow layers, split, and filled, rather than treated as a finished cake in itself. The garbled numbers here look like an artifact of the scanning of an old printing rather than of the original text.

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