The Bride's Cook Book

A wedding present from the advertisers, San Francisco, c.1918 — a young wife's whole cookery course, paid for by the Blue Bird washer, the Portland Studio and Ghirardelli's chocolate.

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Cucumber and Sardine Salad

2 Fish Lettuce Sliced Cucumbers Mayonnaise Place sliced cucumbers on the lettuce leaves, on this the fish, and cover with the mayonnaise. One person.

Drain liquor from tomatoes, soak gel- CHICKEN SALAD atine one-half hour in cup of cold water.

Put tomato liquor into a sauce pan with the bay leaf, onion juice and sprig of parsley, seasoning with the salt and pepper. Bring to a boil; simmer twenty minutes. Stir in the gelatine, add the sugar. As soon as dissolved strain through a flannel jelly bag. Pour into wet melon or border mold; set in a cold place to form. When stiff turn out on platter, garnish with lettuce leaves and pour mayonnaise over it.

For the Modern Kitchen

A plate salad of three components, assembled cold. The only real decisions are the state of the cucumber and the quality of the tinned fish.

A Little History

Sardine salads turn up frequently in American cookbooks between about 1890 and 1920, for the plain reason that canned sardines were among the cheapest and most reliable proteins a household could keep on a shelf: tinned fish required no marketing, no butcher and no judgment about freshness, and it produced a composed salad that looked like restaurant work. The style of service here -- an individual portion built on a lettuce leaf and masked with mayonnaise -- is a standard American salad-course format of the period, as opposed to the bowl salads that came later. Older books often direct that cucumber slices be soaked in salted ice water before serving, a step this recipe omits.

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