The Butterick Cook Book

The pattern company's cookbook, 1911 — thirty-two chapters from appetizers to the fireless cooker.

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Maple Parfait

Pour over the beaten whites of three eggs one-half cup of pure maple syrup; fold into one pint of cream beaten stiff. Mold and pack two hours. Serve in frappé glasses with whipped cream.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

This is a still-frozen parfait built on raw egg white, and there is no point in the method at which the eggs are heated. The hazard is the reason for the caution above; the notes below explain the failure and decode the period vocabulary.

A Little History

Parfait in American cookbooks of this period means a still-frozen cream dessert, unchurned, set in a mould packed in ice and salt — a category that sat beside ice-creams, water ices, sherbets and mousses in the same chapter. The name is French for "perfect", and the French parfait was characteristically built on a yolk-and-syrup base lightened with cream so that it would freeze smooth without a crank. Maple as the flavouring is the North American contribution: maple syrup and maple sugar from Vermont, New York and Quebec were treated as a distinctly domestic luxury, and maple turns up in cookbooks of the period in forms ranging from cake frosting to frozen desserts. The recipe's brevity is also of its period — it assumes a reader who owns a mould, has access to ice, and already knows what packing means.

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