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Fish (For other Fish Recipes see)

For other Fish Recipes, see Fish Puddings and Pies, Fish and Game Creams, Fish Sauces, also Soups. See Appendix as to boiling Crabs, Lobsters, Eels, &c. Adelaide Sandwiches. See Anchovy Sandwiches, No. 2. "Anchovy Crusts." (A. Emslie.) These are made of 3 eggs hard - boiled, chopped and pounded and passed through a sieve, worked up with a little butter and a grain of cayenne papper, spread on croûtons previously fried in lard, and with fillets of anchovy out of oil, not brine, placed in cross bars over them.

Heat them up in the oven, and serve hot on a napkin as a savoury. Anchovy "Devils," a Savoury, also Salmon Devils.

Small strips of anchovy fillets, out of oil not brine, dipped in fresh salad oil, grilled, and then peppered. They may be served on buttered toast cut to shape, or on fried bread croûtons, or on biscuits, the size of 5s. bit at most; if wanted very hot these biscuits are first dipped in oil, peppered, and warmed up on gridiron. Pieces of Findon haddock, or kippered herring, or kippered salmon will do instead of anchovy for this savoury.

Anchovy Sandwiches. No. 1. (Caldy.) Wash and pound the fillets of anchovy, and mix with their weight of butter and a little chopped parsley. Make into sandwiches with brown bread-and-butter. Anchovy Sandwiches. No. 2. "Adelaide Sandwiches."

Wipe, bone, and pound 6 anchovies with 1½ ozs. butter, and ½ spoonful of first stock or half-glaze.

Cut slices of bread into circles or squares with the pastry cutter, and fry a light brown in fresh butter. Grate a little cold tongue, also some Parmesan cheese. Spread the anchovy on the fried bread, and sprinkle over that first the tongue, and then the cheese. Hold the salamander over the cheese to melt it. Do this to 12 circles of fried bread. Put 12 plain fried circles over. Sprinkle cheese on top of each sandwich and salamander. Dish hot on a napkin. (For "Adelaide Sandwiches" of chicken, see Poultry.) Anchovy Savoury.

Sutherden uses anchovies "à l'huile," boned and not salted. Skin and cut them in half, and roll in a little batter, and fry.

Or get olives, bottled, not salted, stone them, and fill with anchovy butter made of these fish pounded, and serve up (not more cooked) as a savoury. (See Melted Butters, &c. for Anchovy Butter.) Anchovy Toast, or "Scotch Woodcock." (Mrs. Husthwaite.) Make some good buttered toast thick and soft, having carefully cut off all crust. Clean and bone and pound the anchovies, and spread them over the toast. Pile the toast, cut into squares, 3 layers, on a dish, and pour over it a warm custard made of 3 eggs and a little heated cream and seasoning. The custard must be thick. Serve hot as a savoury.

Of course this quantity is for a small dinner.

Bass, for Bass Pie, see Cornish Fish Pie under Fish Pies and Puddings. "Bombay Ducks," see Curries; also Note, end of Fish Recipes. Caviare is good on rounds of buttered toast for breakfast. Cod and Oyster Sauce, a Réchauffé.

Fish in the centre with nicely - mashed potatoes (not browned) as a border. The cod has been boiled, and you have had it and oyster sauce the day before. Take what is left over of the cod, and pull it in pieces, as for a fish pudding - perhaps not quite so small. Warm it up in a little cream, warm up the oyster sauce also, and put all together on a hot dish with a wall of mashed potatoes round. The potatoes must be turned out very hot the last thing before the fish is added. Cod Kedgeree. See Kedgerees.

Cod Réchauffé. See Fish Re-dressed.

Cod Roast or Fried.

Cod roast in paper and stuffed is a favourite Scotch dish; oyster sauce or a brown sauce with it, such as is used for pike or haddock. (See Stuffing for Pike, No. 3, under Stuffings, and Sauces for Fish.) Cod Slices. Cod is good seasoned with a little pepper, fried in slices, egged, and bread-crumbed.

Cod. See White Puddings, No. 1, under Meat Pies and Puddings. Crabs - to Boil. See Appendix.

Crab Kromeskies. (Ruth Camp. 1882.) Mince the cold boiled crab first, but do not pound it; see that you have left in no bits of shell, season with a little cayenne, and moisten with a good white sauce of stock, cream, and roux, &c.

Roll it into balls, and let it get cold.

Fry each ball in a batter case.

To make this Batter: Whip up the whites (only) of 2 eggs, then mix in 2 tablespoonfuls of warm water and 1/2 tablespoonful pure salad oil and 1/2 tablespoonfuls fine flour. Dip the crab balls into this, and let it stick all over them well. Fry in a good quantity of boiling lard, which must quite cover them. Drain them on blotting-paper or on kitchen whitey - brown paper. (Lard does to fry fish over and over again, if strained after use and put away in a clean basin in the larder.) All Kromeskies are best without any inner blanket of bacon. - Crab - Potted. (Mrs. Husthwaite.) For breakfast.

The fishmonger sends the crab in boiled but quite cold. Use all the flesh, both soft and hard. Pound it in a mortar with about 1 oz. of butter and a seasoning of pepper, salt and a little cayenne. Pass all through a sieve, pot it, and cover it with clarified butter. Crab Salad. See Mayonnaise Sauce, under Sauces for Fish. Crayfish. See Appendix.

Crayfish Salad. See Mayonnaise Sauce, under Sauces for Fish. Eels. See Appendix.

Eels. (Mr. Courtenay.) First kill the eel, see Appendix.

Then: "L'anguille est coupée avec la peau en morceaux. On la met dans de l'eau bouillante avec du vinaigre, sel, oignon, poivre, et girofle (i.e., cloves) entiers, citron et une feuille de laurier (i.e., a bay-leaf). Après être cuite, on l'orne avec citron, oignons, câpres, et pistaches."

N.B. - "The eels should not be done long enough to lose their firmness. They should almost crunch under the action of the teeth."

Eel - Collared. (To kill Eels, see Appendix.) Bone, but do not skin, a large eel. Rub the inside well with pepper, salt, mace, allspice, and 2 cloves, all ground and mixed, after which roll it up tight, and bind with a strong tape.

Boil in salt and water, with a little vinegar, and when cold keep it in pickle. Some improve it by mixing chopped sage and parsley with the slices. Take off tape, and serve, whole or in slices, with parsley to garnish. Eels - Spatchcocked. (Hotel at Cambridge.) Obtain some very fine large eels. Throw them into boiling water for 3 or 4 minutes. Take the back of a knife, and clean all the mud and fat from the skin. Wash the eels clean, and lay them straight on the dresser; then take a sharp knife and commencing at the tail open the back right down.

Take out the bone, and wash and cleanse thoroughly. Cut off the head. Cut each eel into about five or six square pieces, and sautez in a flat pan for a few minutes with a little butter, lemon juice, and salt. Let the pieces cool, pressed between two dishes in order to preserve the shape.

Prepare some bread - crumbs, with parsley, chopped herbs, a little nutmeg, cayenne, and salt, put the fish, dipped in yolk of egg and flour, on baking sheet, and sprinkle thickly with the crumbs. Let a little oiled butter be sprinkled over them, and brown them before the fire or in the oven. Dish on a napkin, garnish, and serve. Plain butter is the usual sauce to eat with this, or Dutch sauce. Eels with Sorrel. For recipe, see Meat - Veal - Sweetbread with Sorrel. Fillets of Fish - Cold, "à la Ravigote." (Maigre.) Skin and fillet the fish and put them in a sauté pan with some fresh butter, season with pepper and salt, and squeeze the juice of a lemon over them. Cover with buttered paper, and cook for 1 hour in a moderate oven. Lay them on a dish, under a light weight. When cold, trim and shape with fillets. They will then be ready for covering with Ravigote Sauce. See Sauces for Fish.

Fish Croquettes.

Pound any previously-cooked fish with 1 oz. of fresh butter; season with pepper and salt; pass through a wire sieve, shape the fritters, egg and bread-crumb, and fry. Serve with Horse-radish Sauce, No. 1. See Sauces for Fish. Fish-Re-dressed.

Pick the remains of any white fish neatly from the bones, in small pieces; for each pound of fish add ½ pint of cream, a tablespoonful of mustard, a tablespoonful of essence of anchovy, the same of mushroom catsup, a little pepper, flour, and butter, making all hot together in a saucepan. Put it into a dish, and strew it thickly with pounded bread-crumbs; put little bits of butter here and there to moisten the crumbs; then brown it with a salamander or in the oven.

Cod, turbot, or any solid fish can be done this way. Fish Rissoles. See Horse-radish Sauces, under Sauces for Fish. Fish Served in Scallop Shells.

These can have German Sauce. See Sauces for Fish.

Flounders. See Water Souchet.

Freshwater Fish. For sauce for, see Sauces for Fish - "Recipe from Monastery." "Green Kipper." See Salmon - kippered.

Grilse. See Salmon Souchet, No. 1.

Haddock "à la Maître d'Hôtel." (Beechwood.) When you have cut off their heads and tails, lay the haddock (or you may use soles, or any white fish), in salt and water while the following gravy sauce is making: Stew the fishes' heads and tails in a small quantity of water with onion, a little seasoning, and a bit of veal; boil this gravy sauce well and strain it, and let it stand a little; add the yolk of 1 egg beaten up and a little chopped parsley, and stir it well together. Then boil the fish, and when you have placed it on the dish pour the sauce scalding hot over it. Haddock - Broiled.

Take a very fresh good-sized haddock; sprinkle a little salt over it. Skin it in the morning and roll it first in flour and then in melted butter. Broil it on a gridiron over a slow fire; 12 to 15 minutes will cook it.

For "Black Butter" to serve round broiled haddock, see Melted Butters, &c. Haddock - Creamed Fresh Haddocks. (J. Emslie. 1893.) For breakfast.

Clean and skin them, &c.

Warm a little best butter in a pan, 1 oz. if fish are small, 2 ozs. if they are large. Flour the fish, and season them to taste. Next roll them in the butter, and turn them about till well saturated. Then add a breakfastcupful of half cream and half milk. Let it just boil for a minute; then draw to one side to simmer till the liquid is reduced and the fish is tender.

Mix in a teaspoonful of made English mustard with the sauce if you like. When cooked, take the fish out and put it on the dish in which it comes to table; the dish must be made very hot first. Reduce the sauce in the pan over a sharp fire till it thickens, scrape it out, and put it over the fish in the dish - it gives a browny look, and has the essence of the flavour.

Haddock Croquettes. (Mrs. Wellington.) Pick what is left off the bones of cooked haddock or whiting, and pound or mince it fine; mix with good sauce and seasoning, shape into balls and fry. If short of fish you can add one-third of mashed potatoes. For the Sauce: They are best served in this curry sauce: Fry sliced onion till tender in a little butter; when nearly done add curry powder to taste, cooked a little to take off its raw flavour, add good stock, and some cream to come last of all. Haddock "Croûtes à la Findon," a Savoury. (Mrs. Jamieson. 1884.) Soak the smoked fish for a short time in cold water before you skin them. First skin the fish, next bone them and pass through a wire sieve. Season with a little pepper, work into them some good thick cream with a whisk, till of the consistency of stiffly whipped cream.

Have ready fried circular croûtons, size of a 5s. piece or smaller. On these spread the whisked mixture.

Bake in the oven 6 or 8 minutes.

Haddocks - Crumbed and Baked.

An old (Bruce of Kennet) Scotch recipe.

Cut off the heads and tails of 2 or 3 fish; they should also be skinned, egged, and bread - crumbed, and set on the tin with their backs uppermost, straight in a line side by side, not twisted like fried whiting. 3 heads this end. 3 tails here.

Pour some clarified butter over them, and bake in a moderate oven ½ or ¼ hour, according to their size, not on their sides, but set up in dish. Serve with Dutch Sauce, No. 4, or Haddock Sauce, under Sauces for Fish.

The Learney recipe for haddocks for breakfast is similar, but quicker done, as follows:

Wash the fish in salt and water, and wipe them dry. Skin them. Dip them in a little warmed butter, then in a few previously browned crumbs, parsley and shallot, pepper and salt.

Put them in a Yorkshire pudding tin "sitting up as if they were swimming," covered with buttered foolscap paper, and cook in oven 15 to 20 minutes. Dish the fish in the same position as cooked in, to show both sides, and serve any liquor there may be in the pan round them.

Haddock - Filletted, and Venetian Sauce.

Take 2 fresh haddocks, trimmed and filletted, butter a sauté pan, put the fillets in, cover them with buttered paper and bake 20 minutes.

Put the bones into cold water with a little parsley, and cook ¼ or ½ hour. For the Sauce: Put 1 oz. of butter in another pan; add to that 1 dessertspoonful of flour; then, add the liquor strained from the bones, cook 10 minutes, stirring all the time. Add a dessertspoonful of cream, a little chopped parsley, and a squeeze of lemon. Pour over the fillets and serve.

For filleted haddock fried, use Sauce Piquante, No. 3, see Sauces for Fish. Haddock - Findon Haddocks, two ways, on Croûtons or Pastry, a Savoury. (I. Emslie. 1889.) 1. First, the Tillypronie way. Each fish makes 4 or 6 fillets, cut square or long, cut also white bread-crumb in pieces to match.

The fish trimmings must be pounded with 1 oz. of butter and a little cayenne, add a little mustard and pass through a wire sieve.

The croûtons are fried in lard, after which the uncooked pounded fish is laid on the top of these fried croûtons, and, on the top of this purée, one fillet of fish. The oven should be a quick one; the fillet must be covered with buttered paper, and cooked 5 to 10 minutes.

Do not add salt. 2. The second way is with Cheesed Custard sauce instead of the purée of the pounded fish, and you use light puff paste instead of croûtons as a foundation. The puff paste (see Paste and Pastry) is baked lightly alone first. For the Sauce: Take a tablespoonful of cream to 2 or 3 yolks of egg, and a dessertspoonful of grated Parmesan cheese, also a little cayenne. Stir over the fire or in bain - marie till it thickens, then spread it over the partly baked pastry squares, and put an uncooked fillet on each. Cover the fillet with buttered paper and cook in the oven 5 to 8 minutes.

Haddock - Findon Haddock "Devils." See Anchovy "Devils." Haddock - "Findon Haddies." (Isa. Emslie. 1884.) Soak them if necessary ½ hour in cold water. Take out and wipe dry. Skin them carefully. Rub them lightly over with olive oil. Cook them before a clear bright fire 5 or 6 minutes, in a double gridiron, turning often. Thickest part, the back, to be put to the fire in first instance.

Hot dish. Hot napkin.

Another way is to toast them on a fork before the fire. Mrs. Davidson recommends their being cooked in the oven with a little milk only, nothing else.

Lizzie Emslie cooks them in cream till all but dry.

We have had to soak our Findon haddies in cold water all night, as the crofter said they were too strong in taste.

Sir Bartle Frere recommends buttermilk instead of plain water to soak them in. Haddock for Breakfast or Luncheon. (Indian way. 1887.) To bake haddocks (see Crumbed and Baked Haddock) picked from bones, add rice plain boiled and dry, as if for curry, break 1 or even 2 lightly boiled eggs over all, and warm up, adding an infinitesimal bit of chopped green chilli instead of pepper. Haddock Kedgeree. See Kedgerees.

Haddock - "Ritualistic Haddock." See "Ritualistic Sole." Haddock - "Rizzared" Haddocks, for Breakfast, also Whiting. After the fresh haddocks have been nicely cleaned, rub over them a little salt, and let them lie in it 12 hours, then take them out and dry them thoroughly; then hang them up to dry for some hours more, before you cook them. Sprinkle the fish over with dry flour to hinder it from burning (says Miss Brown, of the Alexandra Hotel, Edinburgh, 1886, where they cook it the same way) and place them on a double gridiron or toaster or on a brander if you can stick it upright, before (not over) a clear but moderate fire. Turn often so that they neither blacken nor burn. They should be a nice brown, like the outside of a toasted muffin. When one side is well done and nicely browned, turn the other to the fire, and let it brown in the same way.

They will take from 20 minutes to ½ hour to cook. Serve very hot in a napkin. Whiting may be cooked in the same way, but they must not be rubbed with salt, only cleaned and dried.

Haddock - Salted.

Haddock salted and kept for a few hours and then boiled is served with "Egg Sauce for Haddock," see Sauces for Fish.

Haddock - Soufflé.

Line patty-tins with puff paste, and bake.

Pound the haddock with a little cream, and pass it through a wire sieve, then put a little of this fish mixture into each patty.

Make a purée of Parmesan cheese, the yolk of an egg, and a little milk or cream. Put it on the fish in the patty - pans and bake quickly. Haddock - Stuffed.

Serve haddock stuffed and baked, with Dutch Sauce, No. 5. See Sauces for Fish, and under Stuffings, Pike, No. 3.

Haddock - Various Names for. "Findon haddies" are dipped in sea water first, and smoke-cured over peat and sawdust, because quicker (though not so good) as peat alone.* "Speldings" are not smoked, but left some hours in salt water and then dried on a wall, or rock-dried.

You skin them carefully and broil them, and serve on a napkin. If too salt for your * Sir John Clark says the best Findon Haddocks can hardly be had now. They used in old days to be smoked over birch logs which gave a special flavour not obtainable from other fuel. - C.F.F. taste, steep them for a couple of minutes in hot water before broiling them. "Wet fish" are merely salt-watered and hung in the air, and cooked and eaten at once. They are better flavoured, but they do not keep. "Pipers" are small haddock. Clean and scale them, hang them in the air for 2 or 3 days, not too much in the sun; they require a little salt. Cook on the brander and serve very hot.

The following recipe from Mrs. C. Johnson, 1896, Newmill, Elgin, is to cook "Pipers" for breakfast:

Skin and clean, but do not split them. Score a little, and dab with tiny specks of butter here and there in the scores. Dust over with flour, and broil very slowly. Haddock - "Yellow Haddies," Salted, Split and Smoked Haddock. The great matter is to get off the skin without breaking the flesh of the fish. To do this double the split fish lengthways, and "clap" (i.e., slap) it sharply 2 or 3 times. This will loosen the skin, which must then be carefully removed. Then roast, that is, cook on a brander, before the fire, toasting the thin under bony side first, and then the fleshy part (the side from which you have removed the skin) last. Neither butter nor flour are wanted. "Roast my breist afore my back, And dinna burn my banes, An' I'll never be a stranger syne Fra' yure hearth stanes."

Halibut is served with tomato sauce. See Sauces for Fish. Herrings - Baked.

Scale and clean the fish carefully, but do not wash them; cut off the heads, take out back-bone, sprinkle inside and out with salt, pepper, and mace. Roll the fish and lay them in a baking-dish, arrange the roes at the top, cover with vinegar and water (half and half), a few cloves, and a little bay-leaf. Bake ½ an hour.

Herrings - Broiled. (Mrs. Jamieson, Auchentorlie. 1884.) Split and broiled for breakfast. Scale, gut, and wash the fish, then wipe perfectly dry. Split them and take out the bone, season with black pepper and salt, lay them on a well-buttered, double wire gridiron, and cook them on a clear fire for 5 minutes. The advantage of the double gridiron is, that the herring can be turned without being handled. It is also suitable for cooking them in front of the fire, if the fire should not be clear enough to cook the fish over the top without getting smoked. Serve the fish up flat, i.e., open, bubbling with heat; not too much pepper. Herring "Devils." See Anchovy "Devils."

Herrings - Fresh. (Emslie. 1891.) As soon as they come in wash them well in cold water, and leave them 10 minutes, then drain them, split, and take out the backbone, but do not skin; dust over them a little pepper and salt, and leave them till wanted.

To cook them, begin by sprinkling a cloth with a little flour, and roll the split fish in it. This dries them.

Then warm some fresh butter in a pan, allow ½ oz. for each fish, put them open side downward into the pan which is on the fire, for 5 minutes; then turn them, and finish in 10 to 15 minutes more.

Dish on a hot napkin.

Cook hard and soft roe with the fish, and lay on the top of each herring when you dish it.

Mrs. Davidson, of Coldstone Manse, treats fresh herrings in a similar way, but uses no butter or flour. She says:

As soon as received, split and take the bone out, and put where bone was, a little pepper and salt. Next morning fry for breakfast in a clean frying-pan, for its own juices are enough. You may crumb it.

The Rev. Mr. Smith of Tarland's recipe is as follows: First scrape off the scales of the herrings with a knife quickly, upwards, from tail to head, but leave the skin on. Trim off the tail and fins. Cut open the fish a little underneath, gut and clean it thoroughly, give in all 3 scores with the knife lengthways, 1 down the back and 1 at each side. Have some oatmeal in a plate, and dip both sides of each fish in, that some may adhere. Fry in boiling lard or dripping.

Serve on a cloth.

Herrings - Kippered.

To kipper fresh herrings, you open them, and put pepper and salt in, and hang up 2 or 3 days to dry in the kitchen smoke.

Kippers are better not soaked, merely split, and cooked as you do fresh herrings, i.e., splitting and taking out the bone. - Another authority says:

Do not skin them, but soak them all night in cold water. In the morning wipe them dry, then fry them in a little butter, fleshy part downwards at first to cook thoroughly, then turn them once to cook the back a little. To cook 20 minutes in all.

Herrings may be served with Mustard Sauce. See Sauces for Fish. Herrings on Toasts - "Harengs Sautés."

The fillets of herring (a fish makes 2 or 4 according to size after you cut off heads and trim) are put into a buttered sauté-pan, and covered with buttered paper, and are cooked on the stove or in the oven a few minutes. The toasts are bits of crumb of bread cut to shape, and then toasted; in buttering these, and whilst they are quite hot, add a little English mustard and pepper, but nothing else. Put the fish fillets on top of the toasts, and give a minute or so in oven.

Serve very hot as a savoury.

Herrings - Soft Roe on Toast. (Mrs. Hart, Goodwyne's Hotel.) First make this "devil" paste: A small bit of fresh butter, 1½ teaspoonful of made mustard, salt and pepper. Put in a pan before the fire, and it will liquefy. Cut fresh toast in strips, and keep it hot. Put the herring roes into the liquid sauce, and they will sop it up and be cooked in five minutes. Lay them on the toast, and serve hot as a savoury.

The roe of 1 fish is enough for 4 to 6 toasts.

Herrings - Soused, for Breakfast, Luncheon or Supper. If previously uncooked, clean the fish but don't skin it. Put into a pan a sliced carrot and a couple of onions; add 2 or 3 sprays of parsley, 1 of thyme, a bay-leaf, 6 peppercorns, a blade of mace, 2 or 3 allspice, a little salt and pepper. Add enough vinegar and water to cover the fish (one-third vinegar to two-thirds water).

Cover the pan with a paper lid, and cook in a slow oven for ½ hour. Take the pan (still covered with its paper-lid) out of the oven, and let all remain as it is till cool.

Serve cold with a little of its own liquor strained. For breakfast, luncheon, or supper. If you use fish previously cooked, it does not go into the oven, but is treated in the same way otherwise; you can use some of the water it was originally cooked in, strained, adding vinegar, spices, vegetables, &c., as above. Sea trout can be cooked the same way.

John Dory can be served with Tomato Sauce. See Sauces for Fish. Kedgeree. No. 1.

Blanch 1 tablespoonful of rice in milk, and let it dry. Boil 2 good - sized eggs hard, and weigh an equal quantity or a little more of the remains of any previously cooked white fish. Pull the fish very fine, chop up the eggs quite small, season with pepper, salt, cayenne, and a very little nutmeg. Add sufficient butter to moisten it, but avoid oiliness. Mix all well together, and have the whole heated in an oven or before the fire. It ought to look white.

Kedgeree. No. 2. English, for Breakfast. (Mrs. Thomas.) (Said to be excellent. - C.C.) Cold turbot or sole answers best, but haddock may also be used if more convenient, or any cold but cooked white fish.

Boil the rice well first in water, and drain it; add a little butter, a little stock, also a little pepper and salt and a little cayenne pepper, very little, please. Last of all, add the fish pulled small, the yolk of 1 egg, and a little cream. When you have once added the egg and cream do not use the spoon, but merely shake the pan. Take care it is not "sloshy."

N.B. - You may curry it for a variety.

At Indego they boil an egg under 2 minutes, break it over, and add. Another yolk, hard boiled, is crumbled over as a garnish.

Kedgeree. No. 3. Scotch, for Breakfast. (Mrs. Young.) Use fish that has been previously cooked, and allowed to grow cold - such fish as turbot or haddock.

Boil well a breakfastcupful of rice, soft but quite dry, each grain separate from the other; hard-boil 4 eggs. Put a good piece of butter to melt in a stewpan; mince the fish, making sure it is free from bones, also mince the eggs; add both to the rice to blend, and heat up; season with a little cayenne and salt. Serve very hot and very dry. This makes a good fish pudding, with 2 whole eggs and a little white sauce added. Beat up all together, and steam in a mould lined with bread - crumbs. Turbot does best, haddock next. Soles are too firm, cod too stringy. Soles if for Kedgeree should be in fillets, sautéd in good butter. Turn each piece in cooking, pepper a little when dished for breakfast.

For a change, you may add a little bit of fillet of anchovy (out of oil, not brine) to the kedgeree.

Ling. See Fish Soup, No. 1. under Soups.

Lobster - to Boil. See Appendix.

Lobster "Boudins." (Mrs. Jamieson. 1870.) Prepare some lobster forcemeat, saving some of the best pieces to cut into small dice. Next make rather a stiff Cardinal Sauce (see Sauces for Fish), in which mix the lobster dice. Let it stand till cold, then decorate as many dariole pans with truffles as you require for the entrée, and line them with some of the lobster forcemeat. Fill them up with the sauced lobster dice, and cover all in with a layer of forcemeat. Poach them for 10 minutes, turn them out. Pour Cardinal sauce round them, and serve. Lobster Cutlets - Downing Street. (Lady Northcote.) These are made of a mixture rather stiffer than for Lobster Sauce. Put on a plate till quite set, then cut out in cutlet shape. Egg and bread-crumb, and fry the "cutlets." Serve them in a good sauce. (For Lobster Sauces, see Sauces for Fish.) Lobster Entrée.

One large cooked hen lobster minced, ½ pt. cream. Pound coral, add a little cayenne, mix with the lobster and cream, serve in little cases with some brilliant aspic jelly on the top, or lobster claws. This is good iced.

Lobster Potted. See Shrimps Potted.

Lobster Ramequins. (Auchentorlie.) Put in a stewpan 2 ozs. arrowroot, 3 ozs. of fresh butter and milk enough to mix. Stir on the fire till it boils. Pound 2 cooked hen lobsters, and pass them through a hair sieve. Mix all. Season with pepper, salt, lemon-juice, and a little Harvey's sauce. Season with pepper, salt, lemon-juice, and a little Harvey's sauce. Mix in 4 yolks of egg, whip the 4 whites very light, and add them at the last. Bake in small white paper cases. The mixture should be a pretty pink, and rise high in soufflé papers. [We prefer spawn to Harvey's sauce, and failing spawn, we use essence of shrimps. - C.C.] Lobster Salad. See Mayonnaise Sauce, under Sauces for Fish. Lobster Rice Patties.

Blanch the rice in a little warm water, strain off the water, then boil the rice in some milk and 1 oz. of butter till it is quite tender and the milk is absorbed. When the rice is nearly cold, divide it and work it together and cut with a round cutter into patty shapes with flat top and bottom; mix the yolk and white of an egg and dip the patties into it, then roll them in crumbs of bread. Some lard must be boiled until it will brown a slip of bread; into this lard the patties must be quickly dipped and then placed on a sieve.

Scoop the inside of each patty out and fill it with minced lobster. Dish on a napkin - no parsley.

Oyster, mushroom, veal, game or fowl can be used instead of lobster. Mushrooms are very delicate filling for these patties.

Lobster Soufflé - a Cold Savoury. (Mrs. Jamieson, Coates Crescent.) Make some good Mayonnaise sauce with whipped cream.

Stiffen the sauce if necessary with whipped aspic jelly. Mince a cold boiled hen lobster into tiny dice, mix it with the sauce, whisk all to a froth over the ice, and pour quickly into little soufflé cups, which have had a paper band previously secured round them, standing up 1 in. high above the cup. Dish the cups on a napkin, remove the paper bands, sprinkle a little spawn on top, and add a little chopped aspic jelly.

Garnish with parsley.

Lobster Timbale. (Mrs. Dick.) A boiled hen lobster is best. Chop the "coral" fine, also the meat, and add 2 ozs. of butter, a little cayenne pepper, and salt, 2 yolks of egg, and 1 white, also ¼ pint warmed cream. Make all hot in a stewpan before putting into a timbale mould which has been well lined with blanched macaroni. Steam it. Serve a rich lobster sauce with it. See Sauces for Fish.

Lobster Vol au vent.

Make a vol au vent case (no lid) of "Feuilletage" puff paste, see Paste and Pastry, and bake it ready. Have a boiled lobster.

For the lobster preparation to fill case, make a good rich Béchamel white sauce (see Sauces for Fish), and add to it the liquor drawn from the lobster shell (for this shell should be cracked in a mortar and put into a stewpan, without any water, but with a little thyme, parsley, bay - leaf and some onion sliced, covered close and put to draw on a gentle fire, then liquor strained off), season with white pepper and salt. Slice the lobster in as large bits as possible, but only ¼ of an inch thick; heat it and the coral in the sauce; the coral must also be sliced, but be careful not to break it as you put it into the pan.

When the mixture comes hot out of the oven, put it into the baked "Feuilletage" case, which must also be very hot, and serve at once.

Lobster. See Lobster under Soups.

Mackerel - to Broil. (Mrs. Wellington.) Cut the fish down the back and remove the bone, leaving on skin; lay the fish open flat, and dust with a little pepper and salt; broil and serve dry. If fillets are wanted, then of course you remove the skin of the fish. Mackerel Fillets "aux fines herbes." (Mrs. Thomas.) The fillets of mackerel must be cooked in a cutlet pan, covered with buttered paper, shaped to fit close. They should bake in the oven for about 20 minutes. For the sauce to pour over them, see "Fines Herbes" Sauce, under Sauces for Fish. Fish-kettle and drainer Mackerel Pie, made same as Cornish Fish Pie, see Cornish Fish Pie, see Fish Pies and Puddings.

Mullet - Red Mullet with Tomatoes.

Butter a baking dish plentifully, lay in it side by side 1½ doz. red mullet, sprinkle them with pepper, salt and chopped parsley, then add about 5 or 6 tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce, cover the whole with a sheet of oiled paper, and bake ½ hour, serving them in the baking dish. See Tomato Sauces among Sauces for Fish. Mullet - Red or Grey Mullet, can be served with Wine Sauce, No. 3, or with Sauce Piquante, No. 1, see Sauces for Fish; or made into a Cornish Fish Pie, see Fish Pies and Puddings.

Oysters, "Angels on Horsback."

Croûtons with 2 oysters wrapped in thin bacon on them, some herbs over them, baked, served dry.

Oyster Custards. (Mrs. Jamieson.) These come up in little china cups, as a hot savoury, and are best when made of small "natives."

First break 4 yolks of egg into a clean basin and work them well. Take 2 doz. "natives" and scald them in their own liquor; strain the liquor for use. Pass the soft parts of the oysters through a sieve, and add to the yolks with a little cayenne, but no salt. Add 4 tablespoonfuls of cream and some of the oyster liquor, pour into the custard cups and steam gently till they set. Serve in the cups. If they look honeycombed they have been steamed too fast. When wanted cold they are turned out and served with or without custard sauce of whipped cream and minced oyster, soft part only. If you have oyster sauce you will require 1 doz. more "natives" for it. [I think sauce too rich, and they quite do alone, or with a garnish of minced aspic. - C.C.] Oyster Entrée. (Laura Coltman).

Six oysters cut up small. Boil in their juices, merely bringing them to the boil. Make a custard of two yolks of egg, flavour with pepper, salt and a grain of spice. Mix the oysters and juice with the custard and pour into moulds, steam until it has set, then turn out of moulds, and let it get cool.

Egg and bread-crumb, and fry in hot lard. (Six oysters for two people.) Oysters - Fried.

Fried oysters are often served on a skewer like kabobs, with a little piece of fat bacon to keep each apart from its neighbour.

Oyster Fritters - Four Recipes. 1. (Mrs. Fox's.) Made like orange or apple or any other fritters. Each should be round and flat like a potato fritter, about 3 ins. across. Trim the oysters as for sauce, carefully throwing away the beard and all the horny parts. The liquor, which would spoil the fritters, must also be carefully drained off by putting the oysters on a sieve.

Use small native oysters, and put 3 in each fritter; the batter is made as for oldfashioned English pancakes, with a trifle more flour; make it with milk, and without much egg; season with pepper and salt, but no spice. To hold the oysters, the batter should be both stiff and light; add the oysters when it is mixed. Take up a spoonful at a time of batter, and include 3 oysters; shape the fritter and drop it into hot butter in a frying pan; fry a little brown; though the batter covers the oysters, you should be able to see them through it. Serve very hot on a napkin. 2. (Mrs. Barton's.) Prepare and drain the oysters as above; beat up the yolk of an egg and add the oysters to it; prepare some nice bread-crumbs, and season with pepper, salt, and a grate of nutmeg. Put the oysters into the crumbs, and shake them gently about; then put 2 of these crumbed oysters together, sprinkle thickly with more crumbs, and fry in butter to a nice light brown. 3. For 25 oysters take 1 egg, a tablespoonful of flour, a little cream, pepper, and salt, and mix into a batter. Dip the oysters in this batter, and brown nicely on both sides. 4. Take 1 doz. large oysters; simmer them gently in their liquor a minute or two. Drain on a cloth; beard them, and then flour, egg, and crumb them and fry a delicate brown.

This way they are used as a garnish to boiled fish. "Oyster Loaf." (Miss Bell.) Take a good-sized Tin Loaf, which being flat at the bottom will stand. First cut off the top for a cover. Scrape out the crumb. Stew 3 doz. oysters in their liquor with a very little lemon peel, and a very little mace till the liquor is reduced to a very small quantity. Strain the liquor, add a little cream, a little flour, pepper and salt. Put this liquor and the oysters into the loaf and set the loaf into a tin the proper shape, but a little longer, and let it bake about 10 minutes in a Dutch oven.

The loaf must be fresh, and the beards and horny parts of the oysters must be taken off first.

Oyster Patty, or Vol au vent. (Beechwood.) Put a light puff-paste (see "Feuilletage" under Paste and Pastry) at the bottom of the tin. Scoop out centre, and fill with piece of bread (taken out later) to keep the shape; cover this with the puff paste and bake it.

Scald 3 doz. oysters in part of their liquor. Add some cream and a little butter rolled in flour, a blade of mace, some nutmeg, and a very little cayenne pepper. Boil all together.

When the pastry is baked, take out the bread and fill the vol au vent with the cooked oysters. Lay the pastry lid on and serve. (The following may be easier: Put a round about 3 inches thick, of light puff pastry on a tin, mark out a smaller round in the centre and bake. When baked, remove the smaller round, which makes the lid, take the soft inside of the vol au vent case and fill the case with the oysters.) Oyster Pie. See Beef and Oyster Pie, under Meat Pies, &c. Oyster Quenelles. (Duke of Devonshire.) Same recipe as Whiting Quenelles.

Oyster Rice Patties. See Lobster Rice Patties.

Oyster Sausages. (Beechwood.) Take 1 lb. of a very tender loin of mutton, ½ lb. of beef suet, and a score of large oysters scalded. Chop all these very fine separately, mix them with 2 eggs, some oyster liquor and bread-crumbs; roll them up in balls and fry them in fresh butter, very little butter is necessary.

Oysters Scalloped. (Mrs. Sherwood.) Cook the oysters by Mrs. Sherwood's recipe for Oyster Sauce, see Sauces for Fish, but give a tablespoonful of flour for the white roux to make it thicker. The oysters to add to the roux are left whole instead of being passed through a sieve. Meantime have ready ¼ lb. stale bread - crumbs passed through a sieve, browned over the fire in a little pan with ½ oz. fresh butter in small pieces here and there. Stir till dry. Line scallop shells with these bread - crumbs, then put in the hot oyster mixture. Add the rest of the bread-crumbs over it and brown 10 minutes in the oven. Oyster Vol au vent. See Oyster Patty.

Pike. Notes on Pike as served at Seebruck on the Chiem See. Pike in the Tyrol is not stuffed. Baked or roasted a nice brown; the sauce in the dish consists apparently of the liquor which has come from the fish whilst it was cooking, probably baked over the fire in a pan with a little butter at the bottom, a little flour dredged over it, a squeeze of lemon or a few drops of vinegar, and a sprig of some kind of herb unchopped.

Pike - Baked. (Mrs. Sherwood.) When the fish is cleaned rub it much with salt, and let it lie so 2 or 3 hours before cooking; this takes away its softness and muddy taste. For Stuffing: 2 ozs. of beef suet, 2 ozs. of bread-crumbs, 3 sprays of parsley, use leaf part only, squeezed in a cloth, a little shredded over the fish. Chop all fine and mix up with 1 whole egg and a teaspoonful of essence of shrimp, pepper and salt.

Stuff the fish with this and bake.

For the Sauce: Butter, a tablespoonful of flour, a teacupful of second stock, a bunch of herbs, viz., thyme, parsley, half a bay-leaf, marjoram, a slice of carrot, onion and celery.

Boil ½ hour, skim carefully, and pass it through a tammy. Add a teaspoonful of mushroom catsup, the same, not more, of sherry, and the same of essence of shrimp, and boil up again.

Serve it in a boat, hot.

Pike can be served with Dutch Sauce, No. 4. See Sauces for Fish. Prawns. See Omelets.

Salmon - Crumbed, "Saumon au gratin." (Cataldi.) Cold salmon pulled to pieces, and treated as you do Fish Re-dressed, but instead of mustard, &c., use 2 tablespoonfuls of Spanish Sauce (see Sauces for Meat); brown some well-dried and pounded bread - crumbs, and cover the fish lightly with them; put little bits of butter here and there (1½ oz. in all), and brown 10 or 15 minutes in the oven.

This does for luncheon or breakfast or, for a home party, even for dinner. Salmon Cutlets.

Cut slices of salmon 1½ inch thick and wash them clean. Dry with a cloth and wrap in oiled paper. Bake in oven for 20 minutes, then take out of paper and just well brown them. Season with salt and pepper; some people then butter them. If cooked in Dutch oven, they stand on end to fire (as in a rack), and are never turned; in common oven they lie flat and are turned.

Salmon slices can also be served with Maître d'Hôtel Sauce. See Sauces for Fish. Salmon (or Salmon Trout) Aspic Cutlets. (1880.) The fish are sautéd and allowed to get cold; put a little salad dressing and chopped chervil on each piece of fish, and mask it in aspic through which you see chervil &c., so: Aspic: Fish: Salad Dressing and Chervil: Aspic.

Salmon Cutlets "en Papillottes." (Cataldi.) These are cooked with minced parsley, a small wineglassful of sherry to a large dish of cutlets with imperceptible atoms of mushrooms. Serve these cutlets in papers. Salmon "Devils." See Anchovy "Devils."

Salmon - Fried for Breakfast. (Mrs. Wellington, Tillypronie.) Cut some slices of salmon rather thick, leaving the skin on; dip both sides of the slices into egg, and dust this egged part well over with coarse flour or oatmeal. Put ½ teacupful of fresh olive oil very hot in the pan, put the slices in to lie on one floured side, and when half cooked, turn over to the other side. It will require 15 to 20 minutes to cook.

No sauce, no seasoning.

Salmon - German Way of Re-cooking.

Bone and skin cooked fish, and keep it on one side till wanted. Draw down the bones and strain this liquor, and thicken it with a little butter and flour as you would for any other stew; add a little cream and milk to keep it white. Put in young carrots, cut into small pieces, and young green peas, and boil till the vegetables are tender, then add the salmon to warm through.

Send very hot to table.

Salmon - Kippered. No. 1. (Mrs. Young.) Take a fresh caught salmon from 14 lbs. to 20 lbs. Clean it well, split the fish down the top of the back from head to tail; lay it open and carefully and neatly take out the bone. Put some finely - powdered common salt into a salmon trough, then wipe the fish dry with a clean linen cloth. Sprinkle some salt all over it, and let it lie 24 hours in the trough. Take it out, dry the trough carefully, and wipe all the salt from the salmon. Have ready 1 lb. of sifted white sugar, 2 lbs. of salt, a little pounded saltpetre ("sal prunel" is still better). Mix these together, and rub them gently into the salmon. Turn it in the trough every day. In three days take it out and hang it up. You may now sprinkle it over with sweet spices if you like. It is good grilled. N.B. - While it is in the trough, cover it closely, laying a weight on it. Salmon Kippered. No. 2. (Kirklands.) Clean the fish, but do not split it, be very careful to remove all the blood; sprinkle both inside and out with salt and let it lie so all night. Next day wipe off all the salt, and sprinkle a little saltpetre over it; then hang the fish up to dry for about a week.

When wanted, cut it in slices as you do fresh salmon, and broil on the gridiron, or bake in paper in the oven.

Mrs. Morrison Duncan's recipe for "Green Kipper" is similar: Bone the salmon carefully and lay it open, skin downwards, on a stone table. Sprinkle it well with sugar, and above that strew on a little salt. Lay on a large "ashet," i.e., large plate or dish - Scotch word, (from French "assiette,") in larder, and weight it well, look at it daily to prevent the attacks of flies. The kipper will be ready for use in two or three days, and should be then grilled for breakfast.

Salmon - Mayonnaise.

Have some cold, cooked salmon pulled in small pieces. Get a French lettuce if you can, wash and clean it and pick it, and cut or tear each leaf across.

First cover a silver dish with lettuce, then pile the pulled fish over this layer of lettuce, cover the fish over with more lettuce, and pour the sauce over all. Serve cold for luncheon.

Make the sauce with care; see Mayonnaise Sauce under Sauces for Fish; but leave out cream if you wish.

Salmon - Mrs. Weston's.

Mrs. Weston serves salmon with a rich brown wine sauce made of Spanish Sauce (see Sauces for Meat), with 1 wineglass of sherry to a large dish, truffles chopped to not more than half the size of a caper, and forcemeat balls (quenelle mixture). Salmon - Pickled, "Saumon Mariné." (Cataldi.) This is excellent for luncheon.

Boil the piece of salmon (head and shoulders answer best); take the fish out when boiled, and let it get cold, but keep the water in which you cooked it. Next day, put the salmon in a deep pickling dish; take a stewpan, put some sliced onions and carrots, and some sweet herbs in it. Judge what quantity of liquid will be necessary to cover these and the piece of fish, and then put that quantity into the stewpan, the liquid being vinegar and the water in which the fish was boiled, half and half; pour this quantity over the vegetables and herbs already in the stewpan. Boil vegetables and liquid up well, and when boiling pour it, with the vegetables and herbs, over the fish as it lies in the pickling dish and let all remain some days. Turn it over every morning and every night.

When wanted for luncheon, take out the fish, strain the liquor, and serve the latter quite clear over the fish in a deep dish.

Serve a good salad in a salad bowl to be eaten with it. Salmon Potted. No. 1. (Mrs. Wellington, Tillypronie. 1878.) Salmon for potting should be cooked specially for this purpose in a "hot pot" jar with close-fitting lid, or in a crock in which you would jug hare. Butter the inside, of the crock, and put in the slices of fish with allspice, mace, peppercorns, all powdered and strewn over it. Add a little stock about one inch in depth to prevent any scorching. Fix the lid on tight, and cover with paper.

Cook 1 hour, then let it cool; take out, drain or sieve, season with pepper and salt, and pound with a little clarified butter; pass through a sieve and pot it. This potted salmon is to be eaten fresh, so no butter will be wanted to cover it. A little raw or blanched lobster spawn pounded with the fish improves the flavour. Failing that, use a little essence of shrimps.

It is good for sandwiches with a thin slice of raw cucumber with it slightly peppered. Salmon - Potted. No. 2. (Picnic Luncheon. Fas-na-darroch, 1878.) Ingredients: a slice of salmon, previously boiled and cold; 3 whole anchovies, ½ lb. of fresh butter; salt and cayenne pepper to taste.

Pound the anchovies in a mortar, then add salmon and butter and pound well again. When all is well pounded and mixed, take it out, pass it through a wire sieve, and press into potted - meat dish with lid, and pour melted butter over it. It is then ready for use.

A little pounded mace may be added.

Salmon Sandwiches - Italian.

Slice some thin bread, put cold cooked spinach on it mixed with salt, pepper, a little essence of lobster to flavour, and nutmeg; then thin bread again, then cooked salmon (or anchovy, or both finely blended); bread again, and so da capo. Then cut through, so that each thin sandwich has layers of colour in it. For dinner as a savoury, sandwiches piled on a dish. Salmon - Sauces for. See List at end of Sauces for Fish. Salmon Slices can be served with Caper Sauce. See Sauces for Fish. Salmon. See also Salmon Soup under Soups.

Salmon or Grilse Souchet. No. 1. For Luncheon or Dinner. Clean and wash the whole fish uncooked, slice rather thin and wash again carefully. Do not let the skin tear or break.

Put it in a clean sauté pan, and add a small teacupful of first stock and same quantity of cold water (half and half), to come about half-way up the slices of fish. Add a raw sliced onion and a little taste of green of parsley. Pepper and salt to season. Put lid on, but from time to time turn slices, to cook equally on both sides. From 20 minutes or more for grilse, longer for salmon; take out, dish and serve with the unstrained "bree." Some add a little parsnip sliced, some a little white turnip; some like carrot, but this discolours the "bree." No butter from first to last. Mrs. Caswell does fillets of sole this way. See Souchet also. Salmon Souchet. No. 2. (Isabella Emslie. 1894.) This souchet is good the second day cold. Hand bread and butter to eat with it. Two slices of salmon 1½ ins. thick. Soak 1½ hour in cold water in which is a dessertspoonful of salt. The skin is left on. Put it into a braising pan with 2 ladlefuls of first stock, and 1 ladleful of cold water; 6 peppercorns and 2 cloves. Put on 1 hour before dinner (at 7, if dinner is at 8); let it first come to the boil, lid on. At half-past 7, put in a little chopped parsley, then let it simmer at side of fire ½ hour longer - lid still on all the time - to cook 1 hour in all. Then take fish out, and strain the liquor over the fish in soup plates (the liquor in which it is cooked). Salmon - Spiced, for Next Day's Dinner. (1893.) Put salmon slices in a fish kettle or stewpan with a tablespoonful of vinegar, 3 cloves, 6 peppercorns, and enough cold water to cover - also a small dessertspoonful of salt to each qt. of water. Put lid on pan and let it first boil up, then cook gently for 1½ hour. Take out fish, put on a meat dish and remove the skin, pour the water it cooked in over the fish, and leave it till next day.

Then return all to the fish kettle or stewpan, and let it warm up, not boil, for about 1½ hour. It will then be ready, and can be served hot or cold, and with or without the spiced water strained; for dinner it is better without the water; serve Wine Sauce, No. 1, with it instead. See Sauces for Fish.

Salmon Trout. This is good with Vinegar Sauce. See Sauces for Meat. Salt Fish. See Egg Sauces under Sauces for Fish.

Sardines on Croûtons.

Divide the fish - skin them and take away the bones. Put fish into the oven between 2 plates with a little oil from the tin. This is to get them quite hot. While the fish is in the hot oven add cayenne and lemon-juice. Serve on croûtons. "Saumon Mariné." See Salmon Pickled. "Scotch Woodcock." See Anchovy Toast. "Sea Perch," or Bass. See Cornish Fish Pie, under Fish Pies and Puddings. Sea Trout. See Herring Soused.

Shell Fish. See Mayonnaise Sauce under Sauces for Fish. Shrimps - Potted.

Put the shrimps into boiling water first, boil them and leave them to get cold. Pick them very clean, and as whole as you can; put them in the pot and press down close. For butter you must have 2 ozs. to each ½ lb. pot; squeeze out the water from the butter in a clean cloth. Take one anchovy to each pot, bone and clean them, pound them with the butter, and pass through a sieve; spread this butter over the shrimps in the pot with a spoon, and set them in a slack oven a few minutes to become hot. Press it down smooth into the pots, and when cold pour plain clarified butter on the top. Pounded Lobster is potted same way, but wants 4 ozs. butter and 2 anchovies to one good-sized lobster, and you add a little pounded mace, white pepper and cayenne. Skate. See Fish Soup, No. 1, under Soups.

Soles "à la Matelote Normande."

Prepare as for soles "au gratin," but before baking, garnish with raw oysters and "beurre d'anchois," i.e., anchovies pounded with fresh (cold) butter, passed through a sieve.

Sole "au gratin." (1869.) Take a fresh sole and skin it, wash and clean it. Pass a knife down once between the fillets, and, having cut its head off, dry the sole well on a cloth. Butter the bottom of a "gratin" dish that will stand the heat well, and spread over it a few raspings of bread; season with a little salt and pepper, and moisten with a little white wine, a teaspoonful of essence of anchovy, and a little mushroom juice. On these lay the fish on its back, and season with 1 shallot, a little green parsley, a little mushroom, all chopped fine.

Strew a few more raspings over the surface, and let all bake ½ hour in the oven. When done, remove the sole to the dish in which it is to be served; add to the savoury liquid in which the sole was cooked 1½ a wineglassful of white wine previously warmed; thoroughly mix and pour round the sole as sauce, and brown it with a red-hot salamander for 5 minutes. (Lady Clark writes against this: "In France it comes to table in the common baking dish in which it was cooked, which is best.") N.B. - Be very sparing with the rasped crumbs.

Cataldi's recipe for Sole "au gratin" is the same until you season with pepper and salt, and then continues: Bread crumb it and put 2 or 3 little bits of butter over it here and there; bake, and serve very hot with the following sauce: For the Sauce: Have Spanish Sauce (see Sauces for Meat) ready in bain-marie; add a piece of glaze to it and let it just melt and mix, then let glaze and sauce boil; season it well; then pour it over the fish, and squeeze over all the juice of a lemon. Sole - Fillets. Five ways.

No. 1 (with Venetian Sauce No. 3, see Sauces for Fish). - Put the fillets well cleaned, washed, and dried and shaped to your fancy, into a pan which is buttered to prevent their sticking. Cover them with a buttered paper - they should take about 15 minutes to cook in the oven.

No. 2 (with Cardinal Sauce, see Sauces for Fish).

No. 3 (with Mushroom Sauce, Grillon's, see Sauces for Fish). - The sole fillets are rolled like veal olives, and should be stuffed with veal forcemeat or Whiting Quenelle mixture, see Whiting.

No. 4 (in batter, without sauce). - An hour or two before dinner fillet the soles and lay them in a dish covered with sliced onion and a little parsley, and with lemon-juice squeezed over; mix 2 yolks with a little flour, oil and tepid water to make a thin batter, and put away in a cool place; mix 2 whites whisked to a froth into the batter at cooking time. After the mixture has stood for 1 hour in a cool place, dip the fillets in this on both sides and fry very crisp and dry in a good deal of boiling lard. The batter should be light and crisp and thin over the fillets.

No. 5 (with Chilli Sauce). — Take 3 soles or as many as may be required for your party, each sole making 4 fillets, roll and skewer, and put them into a fillet pan with sufficient white stock to keep them from burning. Butter a sheet of paper well, and cover them over, and put them into a moderately heated oven for about 1½ an hour according to the heat of the oven.

For the Sauce: Make a good white sauce, add to it a spoonful of good Chilli vinegar, and a few drops of anchovy sauce, with a little parsley scalded for a few minutes and chopped fine. Pour the sauce over the fish and serve up. Sole - "Metropolitan Sole." (Mrs. Brandreth. 1880.) Fillet the fish. Cook 15 minutes in the oven with greased paper over them. Draw the bones down to a strong fish stock, adding a glass of white wine - Hock, Chablis or Sauterne.

Make a nice white sauce with butter and this wine stock, then stir in 1 or 2 large tablespoonfuls of grated Parmesan.

Spread the sauce all over dish, lay the fish on it and pour more sauce over. Salamander the top a good brown.

Sole - "Ritualistic" Sole, or Haddock. (Maigre.) - The sole is boned, and stuffed with a forcemeat made of pounded whiting, cream and butter. Sole may be slashed with truffle sliced thin and let in. Put it on a buttered baking sheet with a layer of soup vegetables over and under it, 2 glasses of white wine - a tablespoonful of vinegar, and a teaspoonful of anchovy sauce. If you use haddock for this dish put essence of shrimp in the sauce. Cover with buttered paper, and bake for 1½ hour in a slow oven basting it occasionally.

For the Sauce: Make ½ pt. of stock from the bones, and mix as for melted butter, adding the liquor which remains from the baked fish. Sole. For other ways of cooking see Anchovy "Devils," Kedgeree, also Salmon Souchet, No. 1, and Haddock "à la Maître d'Hôtel."

Soles "Voisin."

Fillet a sole; reduce bones with stock; make tomato sauce with fresh tomatoes passed through a wire sieve. Add white wine, pepper, and salt to taste. The sauce must not be too thick, the fillets laid flat in it, not rolled. To look well, choose a large sole which will make long fillets. Sole Souchet. See Salmon Souchet, No. 1.

Souchet. See Salmon Souchet, Sole Souchet, Trout Souchet, Water Souchet. Most souchets are served with as much as the dish will hold of the stock they cook in. If a souchet "Monté au beurre" is desired, take ¼ pt. of this stock and boil up. Shake into it 1½ ozs. butter in small pieces. Do not put the saucepan back on the fire after adding the butter.

Serve the buttered stock with the fish. "Speldings." See Haddock - Various Names for.

Tench - Boiled. Serve with Dutch Sauce, No. 3. See Sauces for Fish. Trout.

Small stream trout are sweet, though often soft. Split them open on the under-side to clean them, but leave the skin on; egg and bread-crumb inside as well as out, and bake or fry a nice brown.

Trout - Our Native Kind, are split, bone removed, and broiled or sautéd, and when dished each has a piece of butter rolled in parsley on the top. A squeeze of lemon over all, and a dust of pepper if liked.

Trout Souchet. No. 1.

Wash, scale, and gut the trout. Cut off heads and fins, and trim their tails. Put head, fins, &c., in a saucepan with uncooked vegetables cut up - carrot, a mild onion, a bit of celery, a tiny bit of mace, and 4 cloves - also a few black peppercorns. Cover with white stock or with cold water, and put lid on pan, let it boil up at first, and then cook at side for about an hour - with lid on is best. The fish should be in another pan: ½ hour before serving add the vegetables and fish liquid, strained, to the trout. Cook slowly ¹½ hour, lid on. Five minutes before serving add a little green chopped parsley, pepper, and salt. Hand thin slices of brown bread and butter to eat with this souchet. See also Souchet.

Trout Souchet. No. 2. (Sir James Elphinstone of Logie Elphinstone.) The large fish are skinned and cut in pieces; the small ones, with bones and trimmings of all drawn down in water only, and a little salt, make the stock. Strain this stock and let it cool; then put in the pieces of larger trout, with parsley, both root and bits of green, and peppercorns. Take care the pieces of trout are not overcooked.

Do not add butter, or onion, or any thickening; just dish as it is, and send slices of thin brown bread and butter up to table with it.

Turbot with Lobster Sauce. (Mr. Taton. 1862.) The fish should be well cleaned.

Wash it in cold water, and rub the white side well with lemon- juice, leaving it till cooking time; then put it into a turbot kettle, and cover well with cold water. Add a good handful of common salt, and let it come slowly to the boil (1½ hour); then draw to one side of the fire to simmer till cooked (20 minutes more). If you are without lemon use a good spoonful of vinegar in the water you boil the fish in. Serve the Lobster Sauce, No. 2. See Sauces for Fish. Turbot. For other ways of cooking see Rabbit Quenelles, No. 3, under Game; also Kedgerees; also Pike Réchauffé. For Sauces for Turbot see list at end of Sauces for Fish. Water Souchet.

Take 4 small soles or flounders; cover them with cold water, and a little pepper, salt, and chopped parsley and a slice of onion. Parsley roots sliced are used in Holland, and replaced by chopped parsley leaves when dishing.

Stew all slowly for 10 minutes. Take out the onion and serve. Slices of fresh brown bread and butter should be handed round to eat with the fish. "Wet Fish." See Haddock - Various Names for.

Whiting - Creamed for Breakfast. (Emslie. 1891.) See Haddock Creamed, but the sauce for whiting is a little different: Put a tablespoonful of milk, and 1/2 teacupful of cream, and a little chopped parsley, all into a sauté pan, and boil up a minute or two to cook and mix, a squeeze of lemon at the last; pour over the fish.

The milk is added to prevent sauce oiling or curdling. Whiting - Notes on. "Whiting should always be cooked in their skins; your fishmonger should be told to leave the skins on." - Miss Aikin.

N.B. Whiting have most flavour broiled.

Another entry emphasises the same fact: "Whiting are very good broiled with oyster sauce, but, whether broiled or fried, the skin must be left on to keep in the juice. Warn your fishmonger."

Another note about whiting is as follows: "Little whiting creams, stuffed with lobster sauce in centre, turned out of darioles" (a memo probably of a dish seen at a friend's house). Whiting Croquettes. See Haddock Croquettes (with Curry Sauce). Whiting - The Learney Recipe.

For breakfast.

Skin the fish, and split them.

Lay them on a dish, the fleshy side uppermost, and dredge with a little flour, white pepper, and salt.

Lay little specks of fresh butter over them here and there, and a little chopped green of parsley or tarragon; baste with this butter, and bake about ½ hour in the oven. Serve dry. [We at Tillypronie prefer the fish not split, but put to cook, skinned and cleaned, and gutted of course, side by side, back uppermost. This way, "sitting up like a stuffed pike, as if they were swimming in the sea," each side gets crumbs, butter, and parsley. Very delicate for breakfast. The above recipe is for small haddock or whiting.] Whiting Quenelles. No. 1.

Pound the slightly scalded fish, pound also ½ lb of suet shred very fine, and 2 ozs. of stale bread-crumbs, and 1 egg well beaten.

Mix the pounded fish with the suet, crumbs, &c., have 2 silver tablespoons, fill one of the spoons with the fish forcemeat, dip the other spoon into boiling water, with it remove the forecemeat from the first tablespoon and slip it from spoon No. 2 into a buttered sauté pan; proceed thus till you have as many quenelles as you require; cover with good second stock, poach about 10 minutes till they are firm, and arrange in circle. Have ready twice as many small best native oysters as you mean to have quenelles; divide each oyster into half, having previously scalded them and removed the "beards" and hard parts. Serve these oysters in the centre of the quenelles as an oyster sauce made rather more spiced than usual with mace, salt, and pepper. Or you may have the whiting quenelle mixture as a pudding in a hollow mould with the oyster sauce in the centre, having previously ornamented the mould with cold cooked fillets of sole. "Oyster Quenelles" are similar to this recipe, but in them chopped-up oysters are mixed with the pounded whiting before making the quenelles, and a separate Oyster Sauce is also added.

Whiting Quenelles. No. 2. Mrs. Wellington's. (1880.) Very delicate.

A good-sized, uncooked whiting would do for 2 people. Take off all the flesh carefully from the bones.

Pound and pass it through a wire sieve. Take some bread. and soak it in milk, and squeeze dry in a cloth.

Proportion of bread when so prepared to be one-third the weight of the fish, add a third in weight also of squeezed fresh butter, a little nutmeg, salt, pepper, and cayenne. Mix all in a mortar, and bind with a whole raw egg. "Prove" it by dropping a little piece into a pan of boiling water to see if it be of the right consistency. If too firm, add a little cream; if too slack, bind with more raw yolk of egg. Shape as explained in No. 1, and place round a greased stewpan, not touching each other. Float them gradually with boiling water, and cook on side of stove, for 20 minutes. If using oyster sauce, keep a spoonful of the scalded and strained oyster liquor to flavour the quenelle mixture.

Best sauce for this is a purée of oysters, see Oyster Sauce, under Sauces for Fish. Failing oysters, use Venetian Sauce, see Sauces for Fish, or any such sauce that may be convenient.

Whiting - Rizzared. See Haddock - Rizzared. "Whiting White-bait" (Auchentorlie Breakfast Fish).

Whiting skinned and pulled into tiny bits, floured and fried in lard like white - bait. Serve hot, and dry on a napkin. Squeeze a lemon over when dished. Note by Sir George Birdwood, on the "Bummaloe" (see Curries for use of "Bummaloes.") The word "Bummaloe," more often spelled "Bumelo," is the Anglo-Indian form of the Mahratti name, bombila, of the Saurus Nehereus of Buchanan Hamilton [it has other scientific synonyms], a gelatinous and most vicious little fish abounding in all the seas that wash the shores of South Eastern Asia, but more especially along the Western Coasts of India, the Concans and Malabar, and everywhere esteemed, both fresh cooked and cured; and, as dried and salted in Bombay, it is exported to every part of India, and Farther India, being known, wherever it is so received from the Western Presidency, by the natives of India, as bombila-machi, and by Anglo - Indians as "bummaloes" or "bumelo-fish" - and "Bombay duck." [Compare the variety of herring known in Lincolnshire and Norfolk by the name of "Digby Chicks," the etymology of this designation being, so far, undetermined.]