The Cookery Book of Lady Clark of Tillypronie

A great Victorian hostess's private recipe collection, gathered from the cooks, ambassadors and country houses of a lifetime — never meant for publication, and published after her death exactly as she kept it, attributions and all.

HomeSauces For Vegetables › Roux, Browning, and Glaze (Butter and lbs gravy beef cut)

Roux, Browning, and Glaze (Butter and lbs gravy beef cut)

butter and 2 lbs. gravy beef cut up small. Let it brown quickly, then keep turning the meat till all has browned; fill up with cold water and skim off all fat; reduce to 1 pt. Brown Gravy for Veal Cutlets No. 3, "French Cutlets." See Meat - Veal.

Make a good brown roux, 1 oz. of butter to a spoonful of flour and colouring; and add to it ½ pt. of stock, a little ham, a carrot, an onion, some celery, and a few herbs (parsley, thyme, marjoram), or mushroom peelings, to boil ½ hour; skim, strain, and serve.

Glaze. No. 1. (Cataldi.) Glaze must be second stock drawn as for soups, reduced to glaze as quickly as possible, for if done slowly it will look dark and taste very bad. Never make it from bones.

Isabella Emslie says: 3 qts. of second stock (no cooked bones), reduced uncovered by quick boiling to a teacupful of solid glaze; skim well all the time. Her "Demi-glace" sauce is this and first stock (no butter, no flour). Glaze. No. 2. (Mrs. Thomas, Birk Hall. 1859.) Economical.

Twice a week collect all the bones, cooked or not, of venison, game, beef, or mutton - everything but salt meat and put in large pot with any trimmings of vegetables, carrot, turnip, onion, celery and herbs, boil gently till all the good is drawn out and the bones look dry. Then strain, and let it get cold in a large basin; any pieces of fibres of meat strained out will do for the dog's dinners.

Next day skim off fat (this will do to add to the chickens' food), and boil the stock at a gallop to reduce to glaze, every now and then adding a small teacupful of cold water to make scum rise; skim; when much reduced finish the glaze in a smaller pot. Second stock will make nice glaze when it can be spared.

Roux. (Cataldi.) For this, we have no English word, but it is the foundation of all sauces. Take ¼ lb. of fresh butter and put it into a stewpan, when melted add some flour and make the mixture thick enough to adhere to the spoon. If you want a brown roux (e.g., as for Spanish Sauce, see Sauces for Meat), brown it with Browning, see above.

But for a white sauce, keep it white but take care to prevent its tasting raw. Other roux are given under various recipes. (Various Forcemeats and other Stuffings will be found under Meat, Poultry, Game and Fish with their respective recipes.) Stuffing for Artichoke Bottoms.

To a tablespoonful of finely-minced raw bacon quickly fried in butter, add some onion blanched and chopped, mushrooms and parsley, 2 yolks of egg, a little brown sauce and pepper. Stuff artichoke bottoms. Crumb lightly and cook brown. They should come up alone, and are good as a savoury. "Demi-glace" Sauce is best with them. (See Sauces for Meat.) Tomatoes or mushrooms may be stuffed the same way.

Stuffing for Beef Sirloin. See Meat - Beef, Stuffed Sirloin. Stuffing (Forcemeat) for Braised Fowl. (Mrs. Thomas.) See Fowl - Braised, No. 1 under Poultry. 1½ lb. of sausage meat, 2 ozs. of bread - crumbs, a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, a tablespoonful of chopped truffles - all mixed with the yolk of a raw egg. For forcemeat, the truffles must be simmered till done, ½ hour to 2 hours, in their own juice, a little sherry, and some glaze.

Stuffing for Cod. See Stuffing for Pike, No. 3.

Stuffing for Roast Duck. (Isa. Emslie. 1888.) Chop 2 peeled raw onions fine, and put them on to fry in 2 ozs. butter for half an hour in a sauté pan, stirred and tossed. Take off, and mix in ¼ lb. nicely prepared bread-crumbs, a teaspoonful of chopped sage, pepper and salt to taste. Bind with the yolk of 1 egg. You may half boil the onions instead of frying them, and then pass through a sieve.

Do not stuff the ducks too tightly - give room for stuffing to swell. This quantity would stuff two birds.

Stuff ducklings also. It mellows their flesh, even if the stuffing is not eaten. Stuffing for Ducks. See Stuffing for Geese.

Stuffing for Ducklings. See Stuffing for Geese, see also Stuffing for Roast Duck. Stuffing for Fish. (Mrs. Thomas.) A Quenelle farce made of whiting is the most delicate stuffing for fish. Stuffing: Forcemeat Balls are like quenelle mixture, but with lean ham instead of shallot. Truffles or mushrooms flavour nicely - if you have none use chopped herbs. Stuffing for Geese.

Chop an onion fine, also half its weight in sage leaves; mix with it twice as much bread-crumb, a piece of butter the size of a walnut, the yolk and white of an egg, pepper, and salt.

The same stuffing can be used for ducks or leg or pork or ducklings, but latter only require a little sage, pepper and salt.

Stuffing for Haddock. See Stuffing for Pike, No. 3.

Stuffing for Hare. No. 1. (Mrs. Thomas.) ¼ lb. of raw fillet of beef, pounded and passed through a sieve, the same weight of sifted bread-crumbs, 3 ozs. of beef suet chopped fine, use mutton suet if you cannot get beef suet, a sprig or two of thyme and 2 or 3 of parsley; use the green part, not the stalks. Beat all smooth in a basin with a whole raw egg and mix thoroughly. This stuffing does as forcemeat for Pigeon Pie. See Meat Pies. Stuffing for Hare. No. 2. (Beechwood.) Chop 2 ozs. of beef suet fine - add 3 ozs. of bread - crumbs and 2 shallots, and season with a little "herbaceous mixture," sold at Italian oil shops and highly esteemed for soups, stuffings, pies, game, and all things requiring a high seasoning; add the white and yolk of 1 egg. The liver may be added, scraped, parboiled and minced; also a grate of nutmeg if liked; mix all well. The stuffing must be stiff. To stuff veal, turkey, &c., the above would do well with parsley and onion chopped fine, pounding all with the yolk of 1 egg and the whites of 2 eggs. Stuffing for Mushrooms. See Stuffing for Artichoke Bottoms. Stuffing for Roast Partridge. (Mr. Courtenay.) Chop up the liver of the bird with bread-crumbs, pepper and salt, and a very little onion or if you prefer it, put a small whole onion into the bird. (A note by Mr. Courtenay says: "Lady E. Lowther assured me it was inconceivable how much this stuffing improved the birds by keeping them moist. The stuffing itself may be eaten or not, as you prefer. She told me the well-known Lord Hertford always had partridge stuffed so.") Stuffing for Pea Fowl.

Scrape some veal and shred fine some suet; add bread - crumbs, sweet herbs, pepper, salt and mace - also 2 eggs.

Stuffing for Pigeons. See Pigeons Stuffed and Boned, under Poultry. Stuffing for Pike. No. 1. (Mrs. Thomas.) All freshwater fish should be rubbed with salt to prevent their being soft and tasting muddy.

Pike to cut firmly should be cleansed and well rubbed inside with salt, which should remain in it 2 or 3 hours.

Soak a French roll or a piece of crumb of home-made bread in milk and squeeze dry. Add 2 ozs. of butter, a raw egg, a spoonful of essence of lobster, a little green parsley-leaf squeezed and chopped fine, and seasoning. Mix all well and it will make a delicate stuffing for the fish.

Stuffing for Pike. No. 2.

Veal, suet or butter, bread-crumbs, parsley, thyme, all passed through a sieve, and seasoned with essence of shrimp or anchovy.

Stuffing for Pike. No. 3.

Equal parts of fat bacon, suet, and fresh butter, some parsley, thyme and savory; a little raw shredded onion, a few minced leaves of marjoram, and 2 anchovy fillets; nutmeg, salt and pepper; oyster improves it.

Add bread-crumbs and an egg to bind.

The same stuffing does for haddock or cod.

Stuffing for Pike. See also Pike - Baked, under Fish. Stuffing for Tomatoes. See Stuffing for Artichoke Bottoms. Stuffing for Turkey. No. 1.

The same as Stuffing for Veal adding a sausage or a few oysters. Stuffing for Turkey. No. 2. Chestnut.

Roast as many chestnuts as you will require, skin and pound some of them to make the stuffing; add to the latter the chopped liver of the bird, some green of parsley, a little pepper and salt, and the yolks of 3 raw eggs. Put this stuffing into the crop of the bird, but stuff the body with whole chestnuts and with small sausages previously half cooked i.e., fried in butter.

Stuffing for Turkey. No. 3. (Mrs. Thomas's two ways.) (a) 1/2 lb. of the nut of a fillet of veal; weigh when scraped, chopped and passed through a sieve; 1½ lb. raw ham and 1 teacupful of bread - crumbs, both treated in the same way. Add a little chopped truffle and seasoning, all mixed with a raw egg, and passed through a sieve. An excellent stuffing.

If you have no suet, use butter, bread-crumbs, thyme, sage or lemon. (b) ½ lb. sausage mixture pounded; 1 teacupful pounded bread - crumbs, and a little chopped parsley - leaf, green part only, not the stalk - all pounded, mixed and passed through a sieve.

Stuffing for Turkey. See also Stuffing for Hare, No. 2. Stuffing for Veal.

To a cupful of suet chopped fine, add the same weight of bread - crumbs; pepper, salt, a grate of nutmeg, chopped parsley, and a little thyme or knotted marjoram. Mix all well, and add a whole egg. Work well together with a spoon. CS Kitchener with two large ovens and back boiler.

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