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Pork

How to Use a Whole Pig. (Mrs. Thomas.) When a pig is sacrificed for future bacon there is still a good deal for present consumption.

Do not use fresh pork till after the first frosts.

When a pig is killed, cut the lard in pieces and leave it all night in cold water; drain next day on a sieve and put it to melt on a gentle fire, in a close-covered pan the pieces must be turned pretty often with a spoon and, when melted, strained into a basin. When all but cold, fill bladders or pots with it. The feet, "Pettitoes," well boiled and allowed to get cold, braised in a little good stock, then egged, crumbed, and nicely browned, make a good luncheon dish; hand a thick sauce with it, i.e., Sauce Robert No. 1, or Sauce Piquante. See Sauces for Meat. Black-pudding may be made very savoury. (See Meat Puddings.) The liver is excellent when well dressed.

The spare ribs make 2 good roasts.

Lastly, the head - divide it; take out and cook the brains fresh; rub the outer skin well with bay salt; cover the inside with pounded saltpetre. Let it lie salted 2 or 3 days, then wash all off. Prepare a large pot of boiling water; put in whole vegetables - carrot, turnip, celery, old onions, also a bouquet of herbs. The pig's head must be tied up in a clean cloth and, quite covered with the water, must boil rather gently till the bones come out easily (about 6 hours). If boiled too quickly it will be hard. Take it out and with a fork remove all the bones. Add a little spice, nutmeg, cloves, pepper, and salt; and put the meat into a brawn mould, and let it remain 30 hours heavily pressed by a plate covered with heavy weights. Serve cold.

Bacon. (Mrs Wellington.) For "curly bacon," first blanch it in boiling water, half cook it, then take it out and let it grow cold; then curl not too tight and skewer and finish before the fire. Take skewer out and serve. It must, to curl well, be cut as thin as possible. "Foie Sauté au Vin." See Pig's Liver.

Ham "Cardinal Cups." (Mrs. Jamieson. 1881.) 1lb. of uncooked, juicy lean ham, minced and passed through a sieve into a basin. Mix it well with 1 pt. of good thick cream; season to taste without salt. Put it into fluted china soufflé cups, and shake grated tongue thickly over the top. Steam 10 minutes very gently. Serve up at once in the cups, hot. Ham "Jambonettes," i.e., Little Hams. (Mrs. Jamieson. 1885.) Make in little moulds shaped like hams, but the size of mould as if for a doll's dinner! First pound a truffle with 2 or 3 teaspoonfuls of white forcemeat (chicken, rabbit, or veal), and the same quantity of Spanish Sauce, No. 1 (see Sauces for Meat). Pass through a sieve.

Butter the moulds, and place a thin layer of the above preparation, which represents the skin of the ham, over the inner surface of the mould, then a layer of white forcemeat without sauce. Then pound up ½ lb. of lean cooked ham, and add to it 1 tablespoonful of Spanish sauce. Pass it through a sieve and fill up the tiny moulds, leaving space enough at the top for a second layer of truffled forcemeat, joined at edges with first layer. It must never boil - only be steamed slowly for 10 minutes. Turn out of moulds. Dish spinach in centre, and serve with Spanish sauce. Ham Sandwiches. No. 1.

Cooked ham chopped, bound with yolk of egg, add a little cheese to flavour; make into sandwiches with bread, and fry the sandwiches when made. Ham Sandwiches. No. 2. (Tillypronie.) Uncooked ham or tongue soaked all night; water changed; then boiled till tender, with a little carrot or onion, taken off fire and all left till cold. Make this mixture into sandwiches. No celery is used; it has too strong a flavour, and overpowers the ham. Ham Sandwiches. No. 3.

Cut a slice of bread with a cutter, size of a 5s. piece. Put a little cream or milk to cover the bottom of a plate and dip each piece in, then turn them to the other side, and leave them in 1 hour. Beat up the yolk and white of an egg, and dip the outside of 2 pieces to make the top and bottom of a sandwich in it. Put a layer of grated ham or tongue on the unegged side of 1 piece, and lay on that the unegged side of another, joining the 2 pieces, and brown these sandwiches in the oven. Serve on spinach with roast fowl. Ham Sandwiches. See also under Poultry - Chicken, "American Salad Sandwiches." Ham Toasts. No. 1. (Beechwood.) Boil 3 eggs hard; mince them up with some ham; lay it upon buttered toast, and put poached eggs upon it.

Ham Toasts. No. 2. (Sussex Lodge. 1883.) For luncheon or as a savoury.

Very Dry. 1 peeled button onion chopped fine with the green part of 2 or 3 sprigs of parsley; add 2 good slices of cooked breakfast ham, some fat with it, but no skin. Warm a little butter, and put all in an omelet pan to cook and blend, no seasoning required unless a little pepper is wished for; avoid salt, because the ham is salt enough; add a little cream at the last, but turn out quite dry on well-buttered toasts, cut in rounds, the ham, &c., heaped on each.

On account of the onion these are not so suitable for breakfast. Ham Toasts. No. 3. (Mrs. Young, Edinburgh. 1877.) Breakfast ham does best. Stock ham is not flavoured enough. Cut a slice and cook in second stock ¼ hour. Let it get cold. Have ready also 1 whole egg well beaten up. Mince ham fine, and put in stewpan with little cream or stock, just enough to moisten it. When hot, drop in the beaten up egg and stir well. You must have slices of fresh toast, ½ inch thick, which should be crisp, hot, and soft, not buttered. Cut in shape, round or square, with a cutter. Put as much ham mince on each piece of toast as it will carry. Dish on hot-water silver dish, no napkin.

Hams - to Cure. See General Directions for Meat.

Orchard Leigh Sausages. (Mrs. Hulse.) 4 lbs. lean pork, 2 lbs. fat, put through the mincer, 2 ozs. salt and 1 oz. white pepper to taste, and, if liked, a little chopped sage, also a small pinch of pounded mace, a grate of nutmeg, and ½ lb. of perfectly dry bread-crumbs. Mix all, and then again put all through the mincer.

Fill the skins with this mixture and fry. [Lady Clark writes an emphatic "No" against the sage.] "Pease Pudding, Hot."

To eat with Pork. See Meat Pies and Puddings.

Pettitoes - Pigs' Feet, No. 1, (A. Emslie, 38, Cornwall Gardens.) They are salted, soaked, braised and pressed flat. When cold they are covered on one side with truffled veal forcemeat, and then warmed up in the oven lying on the plain side in a sauté pan with a little stock (1½ inch deep); the forcemeat cooks by steaming, about 10 minutes, and the stock must not be deep enough to reach it. Arrange them "en couronne" with "Fines Herbes" Sauce (see Sauces for Fish), if you have mushrooms for centre; or a good tomato sauce does, or Béchamel (see Sauces for Meat), but don't make the sauce too rich.

Pettitoes. No. 2. (Cataldi.) Pigs' feet should lie 3 or 4 days in salt, then be washed, and soaked 1 hour or longer in cold water. They should be first boiled till tender, then braised in stock; either egged and crumbed, and browned in the Dutch oven with a little butter or, to vary, served with and in "Sauce Robert No. 2" without the sage (see Sauces for Meat). Pettitoes, No.3. for Croquettes - a Good Recipe. (1889.) Use the glutinous part only of already cooked pigs' pettitoes; the flesh is apt to be salt, so do not use it but use a young rabbit instead with the glutinous part of pettitoes to make these croquettes.

Pig's Cheek. See To Salt a Pig, under General Directions, for recipe for Cooking. Pig's Liver, "Foie Sauté au Vin."

Slice the liver, dry it with a cloth, sprinkle it with a little flour, and put it aside. Slice some onions, and fry them in a little butter; add to them a little sliced ham, lean and fat well mixed, also, if you can get them, some mushroom peelings. Let ham and onions brown together a little; them add the sliced liver; let all cook together about 10 minutes.

Measure out in equal quantities, but keep separately, a little good stock and a little sherry; add the stock at once, but do not add the sherry until about 10 minutes before serving.

Pig's liver so dressed, and their pettitoes, previously very slowly and thoroughly boiled and grown quite cold, egged and bread - crumbed and fried, make an excellent dish for luncheon.

Kidneys are cooked for dinner in the same way, leaving out the ham. If for breakfast, or with spinach or potato fritters, leave out the wine as well as the ham. EST 11000 ::: 00 General arrangement of breakfast-table.

Pig's Liver and Bacon. (T. Emslie. 1887.) Liver is soaked 2 hours in cold water, then, after slicing thin, dried with a cloth and floured. Have 1 oz. of fresh butter in a pan, and in it brown a little minced onion. Add the liver and toss it over a sharp fire ¼ hour, turning each piece as it cooks. Then add some essence of meat from under dripping in pan and a good piece of glaze, or some half-glaze the size of a bantam's egg. Let all simmer ¼ hour or more. Dish the liver, strain the sauce, and put curly bacon in centre, if you have no vegetables. Bacon sliced, then blanched, then curled and toasted before the fire. Pork Cutlets. No. 1.

For pork cutlets sautéd, reduce a little first stock to half-glaze, and add the juice of the cutlets as sauce.

Pork Cutlets. No. 2. (Mrs. Thomas.) Cover the bottom of a stewpan with clarified butter; trim the cutlets and put them in; cover with a paper lid, and set to fry on a quick fire; when one side of the cutlet has browned turn them over to the other, as the quicker they cook the more juicy they will be; clear off the fat and finish cooking them in a teacupful of stock or half-glaze (see Sauces for Meat) for dinner.

All cutlets when sautéd, that is, fried in butter, must have an onion with them, and must drain on a cloth; and all so-called "braised cutlets" must first be sautéd in a little fresh butter. Serve with "Sauce Robert, Nos. 1 and 2." See Sauces for Meat. Pork - Sauces for. See list, end of Sauces for Meat. Pork Sausages.

For pork sausages you want 2 lbs. of pork nicely minced, no skin, 1 lb. of lard, ¼ lb. of bread-crumbs, seasoning to taste, and a little sage; fill the skins and fry. "Reinacharn Sausages." (Sarah. 1867.) These sausages have no skins, so are more like rissoles. Chop fine from the best end of a loin of pork, 1 lb. lean and fat, half and half. Take 1½ lb. of stale bread, soak well in milk (or in water, if the sausages are to be kept a day or two, as the milk may turn sour), squeeze it dry and then mash the bread; mix all and season to taste.

Roll up the mixture in little balls; have enough butter in the pan to grease it, and fry the sausages. Be careful to turn them as they cook; they take 10 minutes or more. Salted Pork. See General Directions for Meat - To Salt a Pig. Stuffing for Pork. See, under Stuffings, Stuffing for Geese. Sucking Pig 16 Days old.

When freshly killed rub it over in its own "juices," then put it for half a minute into a pailful of boiling water; take it out and pull off the hair as quickly as possible. Should it not come off quite easily, give it another dip. When quite clean and washed, take hold of the pig by the legs and with a sharp knife cut it open far enough to clean it. Wash it again and dry it; then take off the feet, and put them with the liver and heart. For stuffing, dip a good slice of bread in water and put on it some chopped sage, pepper, salt, and very little mace. Stuff the pig and sew it up. Roast 14 hours, basting it frequently with lard in a muslin bag, which is all the basting it requires. Wipe off any gravy that runs down over the skin, and roast a light brown.

Before you take it off the spit cut off the head and cut it down the back; then take out the spit and cut the pig quite in halves. Take away the thread with which it was sewn; take out the stuffing and beat this up and add to it the yolk of an egg, the gravy of the pig, and a little cream.

Make the stuffing as thick as bread sauce, and serve it in a boat with the brains on the top. In Yorkshire they have currants, either in sauce, or alone in a second boat. Sultana Sauce (see Sauces for Meat) is good with roast sucking pig. French Way. - Use no sage; the whole pig is divided from snout to tail, including the head; the bread stuffing is beaten up with a little white sauce, and the brain put with it in a boat; good brown gravy is served in the dish with the pig, and they roast it a full ½ hour longer than we do.

How to Use various Joints of Veal. (Cataldi.) The kidney end of a loin of veal roasted is the best joint of veal, even better than the leg roasted; add to the gravy which has fallen from it a little butter, flour and stock, also a few mushrooms.

The fillet makes many dishes; it may be stuffed and roasted whole, or boiled and served with white sauce and button mushrooms - this is a Lancashire dish - or with "Fines Herbes" Sauce. See Sauces for Fish.

Second day, it is sliced for "blanquette" with Béchamel sauce. See "Blanquette de Veau."

Or you can cook it in 4 pieces: (1) the larger "nut," "Noix de Veau," larded and braised like Fillet of Beef No. 1, but omitting jardinière vegetables, and served with Tomato Sauce (see Sauces for Meat), or with braised button onions and its own gravy or with brown mushrooms. If you use onions do not cut them too close at the crown or they will divide and tear; blanch them, then skin them, and blanch again and fry in butter. Serve with Half-glaze sauce. (2) The smaller "nut" makes veal cutlets or rather "scallops" not bread-crumbed and served as a "frittura," sent up very dry, and with half a lemon squeezed over them. (3) The other part of the fillet makes 5 "veal olives," cut in 5 long slices rolled up and stuffed with forcemeat and a few sultanas, all served in Demi - glace Sauce (see Sauces for Meat). (4) Makes forcemeat. Or make quenelles of both 3 and 4. Leg of veal, a most useful joint. The shin or knuckle for soups; the part next to it boiled for servants' hall dinner, served with parsley and butter. It is also excellent boiled and smothered in onions.

The water in which the knuckle is boiled makes Semolina soup (see Soups). "Blanquette de Veau." (L'Eté, Rue Castiglione, Paris.) For recipe for "Blanquette de Veau," see end of Béchamel Sauce, No.2, under Sauces for Meat.

For another suitable sauce, see "German Sauce for a Blanquette de Veau," under Sauces for Meat.

Calf's Feet and Rice.

Stew rice in veal broth, very stiff; shape it in a hollow ring; egg it over and brown it in the oven. Fill it with a calf's feet after they have been stewed for jelly, first taking out all the bones, then putting the meat in a very good well-flavoured white sauce. Put balls of yolk of egg and forcemeat on the top.

Calf's Head. No. 1. "Tête de Veau en Tortue." (Cataldi.) Blanch the calf's head in a "blanc," that is in a preparation of flour and water, a little vinegar and some aromatic herbs, parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf. Press it, let it get cold. Cut it into equal sized thick pieces, and put them into a braising pan with a little bacon at the bottom, some sliced carrots and onions, and a little celery. Also a bunch of parsley, thyme, sweet marjoram, basil and bay-leaf. Add a bottle of Madeira, which is better than sherry for it, or stock and a glass of Madeira; let it stew gently 2 or 3 hours, or even more. For sauce for "Tête de Veau en Tortue," see Sauces for Meat.

Calf's Head. No. 2. "Tête de Veau Farcie." (Cataldi.) This is calf's head rolled and stuffed "to look like a boar's head!" Skin the calf's head and bone it, taking great care that the skin does not tear. The eyes are carefully removed whole, as otherwise they give a bitter taste.

Rub the head well with a lemon and blanch (i.e., scald) it in a "blanc" (2 spoonfuls flour, 2 qts. water, 2 spoonfuls vinegar, and aromatic herbs); blanch it very slightly, only 10 or 15 minutes, so that it does not shrink. Make a forcemeat of uncooked veal - a quenelle mixture, not too rich, enough in quantity to stuff the calf's head. Make the forcemeat with truffles, or "à la Provençale," which is merely using chopped shallots browned, in place of truffles. Open out the skin and put some veal forcemeat in it, then crossways some pieces of tongue or of ham, fat and lean, ³¼ of an inch thick and, if the head be a large one, 6 inches long, then a second layer of forcemeat and a second layer of ham, and so on till the skin is full. Then sew it up and "give it as much as possible the appearance of a natural boar's head!" Have ready the braising pan with its slices of bacon, carrots, onions and celery, and bouquet of sweet herbs (1½ a bay-leaf, ½ sprig of basil, 3 parsley sprays, thyme, &c.), and a whole or half a bottle of wine, or some second stock. Simmer it gently with trimmings till cooked, and when the skewer goes through it readily it is done enough, then serve with a Half-glaze sauce and hand the following in sauceboat.

For Sauce: Serve with Spanish Sauce (see Sauces for Meat), with the addition of a wineglassful of sherry, which must be cooked some 5 or 7 minutes alone; then add to it a brown roux of a spoonful of flour cooked in ½ oz. of butter. This dish makes a delicious hash next day.

N.B. - This recipe may occasionally be useful, but if the calf's head is a fine one, it is better to roll and stuff it the first day in a bolster shape as in Calf's Head No. 3, which is easier to cook through than "boar's head." The next time it is served, hash it "en tortue," and lastly end by making Mock Turtle soup of the fragments, with second stock thickened, 2 wineglassfuls of sherry, slices of calf's head, egg balls and a little cayenne.

Calf's Head. No. 3. Rolled.

Use half a calf's head cut rather long, but the whole tongue. Bone the calf's head. Skin both head and tongue; rub the calf's head with lemon, and scald it in a "blanc" made of 2 qts. cold water, 2 tablespoonfuls vinegar, 2 of flour, and a bunch of herbs, i.e., 1½ a bayleaf, a bit only of marjoram, also 1 sprig of basil, 3 sprays of parsley, and 1 of knotted marjoram, also 1 sprig of thyme. The "blanc" must be cold when the calf's head is put in, and must come to the boil quickly; and it must then scald the calf's head 20 minutes.

The forcemeat must not be too rich; use either veal or the white fillets of young rabbits - ½ lb., scraped and pounded, and with the meat pound 3 browned shallots, and the white part of 3 raw button mushrooms. Pass all through a sieve. Then add a panada of 6 ozs. stale bread soaked 1 hour in cold milk, well squeezed dry in a clean cloth, and passed by itself through a sieve. Add to the forcemeat also 4 ozs. of fresh butter; bind all with a whole raw egg, and pass all together once more through a sieve. Now lay the 1/2 calf's head flat, and place pieces of the tongue over it, then a layer of forcemeat; over that, some thin slices of fat and lean raw ham (you will want ¼ lb. ham in all). The forcemeat and ham to be in alternate layers till the skin is full. Then roll up and sew it firmly, and tie the ends with string or tape. Put it in the braising pan with a large carrot sliced, a stick of celery sliced, 3 large onions sliced, any trimmings of veal or rabbit, and bunch of herbs (same as above, but no marjoram). Cover with cold water. Let it come to the boil, and then skim, and let it simmer till tender from 2½ to 3 hours.

When the skewer goes in easily it is done. Untie the roll. Take out the thread you sewed the meat up with, and serve the meat in the following sauce with mushrooms.

For Sauce: Take a piece of glaze the size of fully ½ an egg, melt it, and add a roux of a tablespoonful of flour mixed in a good ½ oz. butter. Let it cook and skim it well. Then add 1 pt. of first stock. Put on cover, and let it boil up. Then skim well, draw to the side of the fire, and let it simmer 1 hour.

If you use tinned mushrooms with this sauce, they merely require warming up in a little of the stock; if you use fresh mushrooms, they must first be browned in a little butter, and then finished in stock.

Serve round the "bolster" of rolled calf's head.

The rolled calf's head may be sliced next day, and warmed up, with or without the tongue.

Calf's Head. No.4. Turned out of a Mould. (Beechwood.) The calf's head, after being dressed and become cold, should be cut in slices. Butter a tin mould well, and put in a layer of calf's head and tongue, then a very little mace and cloves, white pepper and salt to taste; then put in another layer of meat, a spoonful of good gravy, the spices and so on till full. Bake, covering the meat with a paste, till out of the oven, then press meat with weights till cold, and turn it out by dipping the mould into warm water, the same way as you turn out a jelly. Calf's Liver and Bacon.

Cut the calf's liver into thin slices, and lay the pieces in cold water for 10 minutes. Put a bit of butter into the pan, and fry the liver a light brown. Take some thin slices of bacon, roll them up, fix them on a skewer and broil them; or you may fry the bacon with the liver and a little parsley. Put the liver round the dish and the bacon in the centre. A cupful of stock with a very little flour will make a gravy if wished, cooked in the pan when the liver is taken out. Grated Veal. See Grated Beef.

Loin of Veal. (Isa. Emslie. 1887.) Bone a loin of 6 or 7 lbs. Use the underside for cutlets; the upper side is larded and stuffed, rolled, and braised gently. Put vegetables and herbs into 1 pt. of good stock with a bit of glaze the size of a hazel nut, and slices of bacon. Put the veal in, bring to the boil; then simmer till done, 2½ to 3 hours covered.

For its gravy, peel and mince raw onions, fry them a good brown in butter, powdered with castor sugar. Add some cleared beef gravy from pan under dripping. All to simmer 1½ hour, then pass through a hair sieve.

The sauce which has cooked under the veal in the pan must be drawn off when the veal is dished, and not used that day. The grease cleared off and used for cutlets, &c. The gravy under is also excellent.* Riz de Veau. See Sweetbread, No. 5. †Sweetbread. No.1. Braised. (1880) As the grease rising in stock - pot is very nicely flavoured with vegetables, ham, spice, herbs, &c., keep it for basting braised meat - such as sweetbreads. When the cut vegetables are in, add a little stock, and bacon if wanted, place the meat on it, cover with a paper lid. Cover close and cook gently but long. Sweetbread, No. 2, "à la Financière."

Lard and braise some sweetbreads and garnish with the sauce and trimmings left from a "Vol au Vent à la Financière" (see Poultry) - i.e., truffles, mushrooms, scraps of chicken and thick gravy.

Sweetbread. No. 3. Sweetbread and Macaroni Timbales. For macaroni timbales the macaroni is blanched in salt and water, cut short, and the bottom and sides of the moulds lined with it (take patience), fill the moulds with pounded sweetbreads. Steam them 20 minutes and serve in a Béchamel Sauce. See Sauces for Meat. See also Veal and Macaroni Timbales for a larger kind. If the meat is fresh, mince it and stew it in gravy alone first. Sweetbread. No. 4, as Cutlets.

Braise the sweetbreads before you press and cut them into shape and cook. Mask with a thick tomato sauce, mount on a "socle" and have a good sauce with them.

Sweetbread. No. 5. "Riz de Veau à la Napolitaine." (1854 and 3rd April, 1896.) Take a plain mould, butter it and line it with kitchen paper. Stamp out rounds of tongue and truffles and place at the bottom of the mould quite in the centre. Then line the mould with cooked Sparghetti, (sic) commencing from the round of tongue, and continue winding the Sparghetti until you get to the top of the mould. (Sparghetti is a kind of fine macaroni.) Blanch 2 sweetbreads, then put them on to cook in some good white stock with a little salt, peppercorns, carrots, onions, celery, mushrooms, tomatoes, thyme, and a bay-leaf. When they are nicely cooked take them up, strain the liquor and make into a sauce. Thicken it with enough best white flour to make a thick sauce and add a few * When the veal is taken up from the saucepan for dishing, the juice from under it is best strained into a basin and kept for use another day - as it is greasy while hot and hard to skim. The grease cleared off it is excellent, as stated above, for cutlets, &c., and the gravy under the grease is very good to use another time. For gravy to serve round this loin of veal, beef gravy would mix flavours, and the theory of French cookery is that all dishes should have their own "jus" served with them; you had better therefore use some gravy left from any previous dish of veal, if you have it by you - this gravy being simmered ½ hour with peeled and minced raw onions fried to a good brown in butter first, and powdered with castor sugar. But if you have no such veal gravy by you, you must very carefully skim off the fat from the juice of this loin itself - skimming first with spoon and then with paper, and serve with the loin of veal. † To whiten Sweetbreads: First soak them in salt and water, take out, and put in clean cold water; bring to the boil; then throw that water also away and dress the sweetbread. drops of lemon juice, a little pale sherry, 2 tablespoonfuls of Sauterne, and 4 yolks of egg.

Cut the sweetbreads into slices, put them into the sauce, and pour all into the mould and steam in a moderate oven, placing it in a tin with water to come about half way up the outside of the mould. A buttered paper should be placed over the mould before putting it into the oven.

Serve when finished with a good creamy white sauce.

Sweetbread, No. 6, with Sorrel. (Beechwood.) The sweetbread should be blanched in veal stock - then larded and braised. Boil the sorrel, and when well drained rub it through a sieve. Heat it up, or rather stew it afterwards with a large lump of butter - cover the whole bottom of the dish you serve it in with the sorrel made very hot, and lay the sweetbread in the middle. Eels done in the same way are excellent, cut into slices and boiled. See Appendix about Eels.

Sweetbread. No. 7.

Sweetbreads can be larded the first day, and served with thick gravy and peas. Second day make a vol au vent with the sweetbread remains. Third appearance: As "Turban chaudfroid" with Italian Sauce (see Sauces for Poultry), or in cockle shells or as rice patties or "Petits pâtés."

One sauce which is good with them is Mushroom Sauce. See Sauces for Fish. Sweetbread. See also Sweetbread Purée Soups. "Tête de Veau en Tortue." See Calf's Head, No. 1. "Tête de Veau Farcie." See Calf's Head, No. 2.

Veal Cutlets. No. 1. (Mrs. Sherwood.) Order 2 lbs. leg of veal.

Trim the meat nicely and you will thus gain a full ¼ lb. for sauce. The cutlets may be panées - but if not, keep them white in a sauté-pan covered with paper. For Sauce: Put ½ oz. of butter into a little pan, adding the trimmings, and cover close; put the pan on one side of your fire to draw 10 minutes. Then the sauce may keep white; use only a gentle heat.

Add a teaspoonful of flour and let it cook 3 minutes, stirring all the time. Then cover with warmed second stock, or warm water if you are out of stock, and stir till it boils. Then add a little bit of celery sliced, the same of carrot, the same of onion, a little parsley, and half a bay-leaf.

Let it boil up ½ hour, skim carefully the whole time, then strain through a tammy. Now take half the yolk of an egg, strained, and to it add 2 tablespoonfuls of warmed cream; when the sauce is off the boil add this liaison and mix it smooth. Just before you dish, add a squeeze of lemon. "Tomato Sauce for Boiled Chicken" (see Sauces for Poultry) is also good with veal cutlets if panées; or you can use White Sauce, No. 3 (see Sauces for Poultry). Another sauce for veal cutlets is Sauce Robert, No. 2 (see Sauces for Meat). For cucumber for centre of veal cutlets, see Cucumber, under Vegetables. Veal Cutlets. No. 2. "Escalopes de Veau Sautées." (Mrs. Thomas.) To sauté veal cutlets (or roe, chicken, partridge, or duck cutlets), Mrs. Thomas says: "It is better first to clarify a little butter, enough to grease the pan well, and just to colour them, turning each piece once; then to finish in the demi-glace which is served with them. The veal must be very well beaten. I think young meats only require to be sautéd."

Veal Cutlets. No. 3. "French Cutlets." (Beechwood.) Alternate layers of veal and tongue or ham, cut round, the same size and shape, and put into a stew - pan with brown or white stock. Let is stew till quite tender. There must be no fat on the ham if you use it instead of tongue, or the gravy will be oily. Serve in circle, alternate veal and tongue, with white sauce or thick brown gravy. For gravy, see Brown Gravy for Veal Cutlets No. 3, under Roux, &c.

Veal Cutlets. No. 4. "Prussian Cutlets." (Mrs. Hobhouse.) Take 1 lb. of veal with a little fat, no gristle. Chop it up, but not too fine; add to it 2 teaspoonfuls of chopped shallot, a teaspoonful of salt, and a small 1½ teaspoonful of pepper, with a little nutmeg grated. Chop it a little more, and shape into cutlets; egg and bread - crumb each, keeping the shape, and inserting a small bone at the smaller end; sauté them in fresh fat, oil, lard or butter. Give them 10 minutes on the fire till a nice brown colour, dish and serve with any kind of rich brown sauce you may prefer. Cutlets from this recipe may be made of hare or of any cold meat or game, instead of veal.

Veal Fillets can be served with "Fines Herbes" Sauce. See Sauces for Fish, substituting, of course, veal liquor for the fish liquor in the recipe. Veal Hash. See end of recipe for Calf's Head, No. 2. Veal and Macaroni Timbale. (Mrs. Dick.) A plain mould, buttered; and at the bottom put a nicely fitting piece of writing paper cut to the size (this is to make it turn out neatly, and Mrs. Dick also uses it for her steamed puddings). To the veal (under a lb.) add ½ its weight of sausage mixture or of lean ham. Make a little quenelle mixture with part of the veal. The macaroni must be thrown into briskly boiling water to blanch, then into cold water, then drained, and cut all one size on a board, line the mould with it, then again, inside the macaroni, line the top and sides of the thus prepared mould with quenelle or sausage mixture that it may not break in turning out. Chop the fresh meat fine and blanch it, taking away all fat or gristle, then warm up with a rich Béchamel (see Sauces for Meat), add 3 yolks and 1 white of egg and fill the mould. Steam 1 hour or more and serve with Béchamel sauce round. Some add a little grated Parmesan to the macaroni.

This recipe is also good for chicken, sweetbread, tongue, mushrooms &c., or lobster. Veal Quenelles. No. 1. "Bagshot Quenelles." Best Recipe. (1865.) Ingredients: ½ lb. veal cutlet cut in slices and scraped. 6 ozs. sliced bacon, scraped. 5 ozs. bread-crumbs, first soaked in second stock well flavoured with vegetables then squeezed in a clean cloth. 2 or 3 mushrooms, 1 shallot.

Take the white part of 2 or 3 peeled button mushrooms and 1 sliced shallot, and pound them in a mortar; add the scraped veal and mix and pound again; do the same with the scraped bacon and then with the crumbs; pass all through wire sieve and pound again.

Beat in well 2 yolks of egg (1 at a time), add white pepper and salt; pass through the sieve a second time, and let it get cold and quite firm. Put aside in a basin covered with a buttered paper till dinner time. Make the quenelles in the usual way; you can lard them with truffles. Veal Quenelles. No. 2. (Mrs. Payton. 1862.) Take about 15 minutes to cook.

Proportions: 1 lb scraped veal, 5 or 6 ozs. scraped udder,* 4 ozs. panada, all well pounded together and passed through a sieve.

If you can get udder, use 3 ozs. butter; but if instead you use rabbit (a drier meat even than chicken), then use 4 ozs. of butter but not more, or 2 of butter and 2 of scraped fat raw bacon.

Make quenelles in the usual way.

The panada must be prepared with great care, as follows: Take 1 oz. of butter in a little pan, and put in it over the fire the peel of two button mushrooms, a small shallot minced, the green leaf of two sprays of parsley, cut up with a very little thyme and basil, a piece of raw stock ham (the size of a French bean), 2 or 3 peppercorns and 1 clove. Cover and draw down for a few minutes, then add about 1½ pt. cold milk and let it come to the boil. Strain it and return to the pan on the fire, and stir in enough grated bread-crumbs to make it stiff. Stir all over the fire till it boils and a minute or two longer, than turn out to get cold on a plate.

When the 3 things, veal, udder and panada, have been pounded through a sieve, return them to the mortar, and mix in well 3 raw yolks of egg, a grain of cayenne, a grate of nutmeg and a little salt; then pass through the sieve a second time, and put aside till wanted. Cook a small piece, and if it seems too light, work in a fourth yolk of egg. *"The firm white fat of the fillet, much used by French cooks instead of butter, in making forcemeats; for these it is first boiled, then left until quite cold, and afterwards thoroughly pounded before it is mixed with other ingredients." (From "The People's Book of Modern Cookery," by Eliza Acton. Messrs. Longmans, Green & Co.) Veal Quenelles. No. 3. (Mrs. Thomas.) 1½ lb. each of veal and of veal udder*, 6 ozs. of scraped bacon, (uncooked of course), and the same weight of bread which has been soaked 1 hour in cold milk, the milk must have then been thoroughly squeezed out from the bread with a nice clean cloth. Pound the meat through a sieve, veal alone, udder alone, pound the crumbs also through a sieve, but separately from the meat, then pound meat and crumbs together. Add the yolks of 2 eggs first and mix them well with the meat, then the whites and pound all together. Season delicately with pepper, salt, and cayenne. Shape in a spoon and lay in a stewpan and cover them with buttered paper. Pour boiling stock over all, and boil gently 10 minutes. Take out and drain on a cloth.

Coat with Béchamel sauce; if you serve with stewed peas, then you must flavour with mushrooms and shallot; or if with truffles in centre, lard quenelles with truffles. To the sauce Mrs. Thomas adds the yolk of an egg and one drop of lemon juice. If no veal to be had, use ½ lb. chicken instead. Put the chicken meat through the sieve, then pound ¼ lb. suet and ¼ lb. butter with it, and put it again through sieve then add crumbs previously passed separately through sieve; you may flavour with 1 chopped mushroom and ½ a shallot. Lemon juice will keep it white. Veal and Rice Patties. (Beechwood.) See Lobster Rice Patties, under Fish. Veal Rissoles. (Beechwood.) Save the gravy of a fillet of veal, which has been roasted the day before. Cut off part *See footnote to Veal Quenelles, No. 2. of the meat and pare off the outside - mince the veal small but do not pound it. Add a little tongue, or the lean of ham, minced, and mix all well together. Put into a clean saucepan with the veal gravy. Season with pepper and salt, and add as much flour as makes the whole of proper consistency. Put the pan on the fire and stir well, till the ingredients are thoroughly mixed; then spread on a large dish and put it in a cool place. Whip up 4 eggs well with a little salt, rub the crumb of a stale loaf through a fine colander and keep both ready separately.

When the meat mixture is cold take up a little and form it into shapes, such as a pear, a cutlet, or a pigeon's egg. Dip each first into the egg, and then into the crumbs, working it into shape again. When all are made, fry them a light brown colour. Veal Sandwiches. See under Poultry - Chicken "American Salad Sandwiches." Veal - Stuffing for. See Stuffing for Hare, under Stuffings. Veal Tendrons, "Tendrons de Veau aux petits Pois." (Mrs. Weston.) This dish takes 2 days to prepare. Tendrons of veal should be served on a flat platform of quenelle mixture, spinach or mashed potatoes, with peas in the centre and a thick brown sauce.

Take a breast of veal and 3 lbs. out of the middle of it - the tendron part - cut in thick slices - line the bottom of a stewpan with ½ lb. or more of fat bacon in slices. Add any trimmings from the veal, a carrot, 3 onions, a little green parsley, thyme, and a bay-leaf.

Lay the pieces of tendron in the middle - cover them with water, put them on the fire and, when boiling, draw the pan off to one side of the fire. Skim it, and let it stew gently for 8 or 9 hours till tender.

Then take out the tendrons and lay them on a dish. Place over them a second dish, of the same size, on which put a 7 lb. weight, and let them remain, thus pressed, all night. Next day trim them and cut them all one shape, oval or round; put them on a dish near the fire or in a pan in the bain - marie to get warm; glaze them and serve in a circle with fresh peas in the centre. To prepare the peas, put them into a stewpan with 1 onion, a sprig of parsley, a sprig of fresh mint, a little sugar, pepper, and salt; let them simmer 1½ hour, then drain well and add ½ pt. of sauce well reduced. If you have only preserved peas put them in a stewpan with a teacupful of broth, also a little sugar. Let them stew for ¼ of an hour, then add them to the sauce. Never have this dish unless you can get peas or asparagus points. For sauce, see Sauce for Veal Tendrons, under Sauces for Meat.

Veal with Potatoes. (Beechwood.) Take a dozen pieces of veal cut in long squares well larded, and braise them. Have pieces of bread cut the same shape and fried in butter to arrange alternately with veal in a circle on a dish. Mash potatoes with a little white gravy and cream, work them in a bowl to thickness of white sauce, place in the centre of the veal circle, pour a little good brown veal gravy round the edge of the dish but not to mix with the potatoes. Veal. See Neck of Mutton, No. 3, for another recipe to cook it.