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Mutton and Lamb

How to Use a Whole Sheep or Lamb. (1893.) The blood makes Black puddings, see Meat Pies and Puddings, with sieved oatmeal, or groats, or rice, and the fat under the loin round the kidney can be used in the way "fleed" is used with pig's blood in making ordinary Black Puddings. The head, trotters and breast of mutton, with some of the superfluous fat on this last cut off, make, with vegetables, the best broth, and afterwards all the meat is useful in other ways.

The sheep's head, whole, is served with the feet ("trotters") round as garnish, and with broth as sauce; or cut up in squares in dressed sauce as an entrée, vegetables in centre and fried brains as garnish; or can be boiled and turned out of a mould solid. The trotters require long boiling, and after removing the bones, you can make fritters of the meat for breakfast as if they were pettitoes. For Sheep's Trotters, see also Sheep's Head recipes. The boiled breast of mutton used to boil with Sheep's Head No. 2 can afterwards be crumbed, with mixed herbs, and broiled or baked a nice brown, to eat hot. If for upstairs, serve a sharp sauce in a boat with chopped gherkins or capers in it. Kidneys can be sliced for breakfast, with bacon, or in an omelet, and the liver sliced and fried, and served with bacon and fried potatoes. The sheep's heart is hard if roasted; it is better stuffed and braised but must be eaten at once it chills so immediately.

A sheep's sweetbread is not worth cooking though in the lamb it is excellent. A lamb's head can be served upon a "fugie," a mince of heart, sweetbread, liver, &c., but no kidneys. Make it savoury.

Much of the rest is used for Haggis. Any bits not otherwise wanted are very welcome additions to the scraps set aside for the keeper's dogs. Breast of Lamb or of Mutton braised, with "Sauce Robert." (Cataldi.) Boil a breast of lamb or mutton till quite tender, then bone it. Next press it well under a weight till quite cold; better let it remain pressed all night. Then cut it into squares 2½ ins. long, 2½ broad, 1 in. thick. Egg and bread-crumb each piece, then brown them in the oven. Allow one piece for each person and a couple or so over. Serve with good thick brown gravy sauce. See "Sauce Robert, No. 2," or Tomato Sauce, under Sauces for Meat. "China Cholla." (Edinglassie. 1894.) A luncheon dish. 2 lbs. neck of lamb or mutton, cut into small square pieces, 1 pt. of green peas, 2 ozs. of fresh butter, 2 good lettuces and a little stock all put into a stewpan and close covered, to cook for 2 hours.

Chops Broiled. No. 1. (Same recipe for Beefsteaks.) Cook over (not before) a very clear fire. Rub the gridiron well with suet. Melt a little butter, divide the meat, beat and trim, and dip each chop or steak into the butter first one side, then the other. Take the chop or steak up with steak tongs and put it on the gridiron; turn it over when brown, that both sides may colour equally. If you do not turn it often, one side of the chop will always bulge out and the other side will be hollow, and it will be deficient in gravy. Cut all fat ends off the chops. You can hardly turn the meat too often if it is to be kept juicy. Do not pepper them till you dish them up. If you season before you cook it the meat will be very hard. If a made gravy is ordered, then have ready a tablespoonful of mushroom catsup and a little gravy to pour hot together over the meat when seasoned and dished, on coming off the gridiron. To cook chops or steaks "à la maître d'hôtel, "mix a little cold butter, lemon juice, and chopped parsley, cayenne pepper and salt together, and put on them when dished. Chops Broiled. No. 2. (Mrs. Carr and Mrs. Weston. 1879.) Broiled chops are cooked over a clear coal fire, and not seasoned. The cook must not trust to the kitchenmaid, but herself see that the gridiron is perfectly clean and not too hot, or the chops will get scored. Also the gridiron must often be rubbed with a little fat cut off the chop, or with bacon or suet. The chop must be turned 4 or 5 times with a knife; do not touch the meat part of the chop with a fork, or it will lose its juice. Sauce Béarnaise and Tartar Sauce, no. 2, are good with chops. See Sauces for Meat. Chops. See also Mutton Cutlets, No. 6.

Collops of Mutton. See Scotch Collops, under Beef.

Cutlets. No. 1.

Dressed like Roe Venison. For recipe for this see Neck of Mutton, No. 6. Cutlets. No. 2. "Batter Cutlets."

Half cook the cutlets alone first.

Batter cutlets are sautéd and dried and cold before you dip them in this batter: 2 spoonfuls of flour to a breakfastcupful of warm water mixed in the yolk of an egg, the whipped-up white added last thing. Or, instead, take 1 spoonful of flour to 2 strained yolks, worked till thick with warm water and a few drops of oil, the whites, frothed stiff, added at last. Finish cooking.

Cutlets. No. 3. Braised with rabbit Quenelle.

Spanish Sauce (see Sauces for Meat) is used as a sauce for Mutton cutlets which are braised with rabbit quenelle forcemeat, onions are put in the centre of the dish; slice the onions and sauté in butter; then finish in a little glaze of good stock. The mutton cutlets must be nicely sautéd in butter with 1 onion and the grease allowed to drain off on a cloth before adding the rabbit forcemeat. Cook in very little stock, lest it make the quenelle mixture sodden. See Rabbit Quenelles, under Game. Cutlets. No. 4. "Côtelettes la Valois." (Capesthorne.) (Copied literally from French cook's recipe.) "Taillez les côtelettes d'après un carré de mouton mortifié à point. "Fendez les en deux sur l'épaisseur. Etalez les ouvertes, sur un plat, et assaisonnez-les de bon goût avec sel et poivre. D'autre part, preparez une farce de volaille à la crème, très délicate, ajoutez-y une duxelle* bien assaisonnée et farcissez les côtelettes en renfermant la farce et panez-les à l'Anglaise. Les faire frire de belle couleur en beurre clarifié et les passez un moment au four. Les égouter sur un linge, et les dresser sur bordure. "Une demi-glace au madère se sert autour."

Cutlets. No. 5. (E. Emslie.) These are broiled, but lightly. Have the hot sauce ready first. For Sauce: A roux, stock and a little glaze in the cleared gravy. All passed through a sieve and kept hot, ready.

The cutlets are done loosely in a double gridiron before the fire; turn the gridiron often. Dip each cutlet both sides in fresh salad oil. This mellows it, and the gridiron need not then be greased. When finished, serve with the hot sauce. *"Uneduxelle," i.e., duxelles mixture. The late Mrs. Beaty Pownall, in her excellent "Book of Sauces" (published by Messrs. Chapman & Hall), gives the following description : "The duxelles mixture is made by frying together, or rather stewing, equal parts of mushrooms and parsley, a third of shallots, and, if at hand, a little truffle (all minced separately) in fresh butter, seasoning it all with pepper, salt, and a dash of nutmeg. Stir the whole over a fire for five minutes, then moisten with a good wineglassful of light French wine, previously reduced to half by rapid boiling, and mix it with the yolk of an egg or two, and a little lemon juice." Miss Beaty Pownall in kindly giving permission for the above quotation from her mother's book, says: "The origin of the term d'Uxelles is the name of the inventor's patron. This mixture was first introduced by the very well known chef La Varenne, chef to the Marquis d'Uxelles, and is given in the former's book of recipes published in 1650. La Varenne originally called the preparation 'Champignons à l'Olivier,' but his successors discarded this title and simply called it 'd'Uxelles' in memory of the kitchen in which the recipe originated." — C.F.F. Cutlets. No. 6. "Home Cutlets,"or Chops.

Warm 2 ozs. of fresh clarified butter in a pan. Beat cutlet or chop well, to make it more tender. Dip it in a raw egg - first one side and then the other - and crumb it very slightly only.

Fry in the butter, first one side then the other.

There should be very little look of crumbs on the meat when served. No made gravy with these cutlets.

Cutlets. No. 7. "Reform Cutlets." (Sutherden's, as learnt from Bate.) Having trimmed them, dip each cutlet in beaten egg, and then crumb them with equal parts of dried bread-crumbs and finely chopped boiled ham (lean only), ham and crumbs being previously well mixed. - The cutlets must be fried on both sides, and, when thoroughly done, dished in a circle with sauce under them, and "Reform chips" filling up the centre. "Reform chips" for the centre of the dish are made of the red part of boiled carrots, black truffles, some lean cooked ham or bacon, the whites only of hard - boiled eggs, cut in strips, and the outer part only of Indian mountain green gherkins. All cut in needle shape, like Julienne vegetables, say ½ inch long and the 12th of an inch broad. Make all hot in a basin in the screen, toss them up lightly to mix them, and pile them in the hollow centre of the cutlets.

For Sauce. - Its foundation is "Poivrade" (see Sauces for Meat); to this add a glass of port wine or of claret, half that quantity Harvey's sauce, a teaspoonful anchovy sauce, and 2 good tablespoonfuls of red currant jelly. Boil all together for 5 minutes, and pour into a clean small stewpan for use. Pour the sauce under and round the cutlets only, not over them.

Cutlets. No. 8. "Soubise Cutlets." (Mrs. Thomas.) Let these cutlets be cooked all at once, not first half cooked, as so many recipes advise.

Divide a neck of mutton into cutlets, beat and trim them. Put fully 3 or 4 ozs. of butter into a stewpan, and in the middle of the pan put a large whole onion, peeled; lay the cutlets round the onion on the butter, and cover close; give them a fry over the fire, and when one side has browned turn them over to brown the other side also; then take them up, drain off the grease, and trim them again if necessary. Put them back into the stewpan with good stock enough to come nearly half way up them, not more; cover close, and let them braise very gently till quite tender, again turning them once. See Soubise Sauce, No. 2, under Sauces for Meat. Cutlets. No. 9. "Mr Taton's Soubise Cutlets."

Cut them rather thick, and stew them in a well-seasoned and rather strong braise. When done, which should be the day before your party, place them between 2 dishes, straining some of the braise to them - the remainder of the stock will form the sauce. See Soubise Sauces under Sauces for Meat.

Trim the cutlets next morning.

Have ready a good purée of onions, and cover one side of each cutlet with as much as it will bear; egg and crumb and brown them nicely, and serve the remaining braise as sauce.

Or, having heated the cutlets and put them and the gravy into the dish, serve the onion purée in the centre.

Cutlets. No. 10. With Tomato Sauce.

Divide the neck of mutton into cutlets, flatten them, and scrape the inside of the bone quite clean; put them, masked with a little clarified butter, into a sauté pan. Season with pepper and salt. Sauté them over a sharp fire, turn them and drain off the butter. Put some thin light glaze over them. Sauté the cutlets in this, dish and serve with the Duke of Cumberland's Tomato Sauce. See Tomato Sauce No. 3, under Sauces for Meat. Cutlets. No. 11. "York Club Rachel Cutlets." (Mary Pennyman.) First get ready an onion purée as follows: Boil some onions and chop them fine, then drain them and fry them in butter and a little sugar till quite done. Next mix a little flour and good stock, and add to this the onion purée; reduce it and take it off the fire, and add to it as a liaison 3 yolks of egg. The eggs must not be added till it is off the fire. Trim a dish of mutton cutlets, and scrape away all but the centre piece of meat. The meat left on the bone should be the size of a crown piece, so that the cutlets when prepared are the shape of a capital P. Season and fry them quickly on one side only, in fresh butter.

Now put pepper and salt on the fried side of the cutlets and pour the onion purée over them.

Crumb them over well with fried crumbs and grated cheese; smooth it with a palette knife, and add a few drops of cream before putting them into the oven for 10 minutes to heat through. Dish up with a good brown sauce.

Prepare all ingredients, etc., before cooking the cutlets. Cutlets - Sauces for. See list of Sauces at end of Sauces for Meat. "Escalopes de Mouton." See Scallops of Mutton. "Filet de Mouton." See Loin of Mutton. "Filet de Chevreuil." See Loin of Mutton. "Gigot"; pronounced "jiggot"; Scotch, from the French for Leg of Mutton. (Ballater. 1876.) Mrs. Major Farquharson says this "round of stuffed leg of mutton should be cooked in a common paste to keep the juice in."

Grated Mutton. See Beef - Grated. "Haggis." (Lady Login.) Have a sheep's or lamb's bag thoroughly well cleaned. Let it lie in salt and water for a few hours; have 2 lbs. of dry oatmeal, 1 lb. mutton suet, ¼ lb. sheep's liver, boiled and grated, and the sheep's heart and lights boiled and minced very fine. Season with pepper and salt. Mix all well together; put the mixture into the bag with 1½ pt. of the liquor the heart was boiled in, then sew up the bag; have ready a pot full of boiling water, put the "haggis"in, and prick it for 5 minutes with a large needle. Let it boil for 6 hours.

Haricot. (Miss Toomer.) Cut the chops from a neck of mutton free from fat and sauté them with 2 whole shallots in a little butter till a nice light brown; then put both chops and shallots into a stewpan with sliced carrot, turnip, and celery, and plenty of whole button onions. Just cover them with good stock and let them simmer very gently till tender but not ragged, then dish them.

Thicken the gravy with a little flour cooked in butter 5 minutes over a slow fire and stirred all the time; season and serve.

Beefsteaks from the fillet are very good dressed in this way. Hashed Mutton may be cooked same as Hare - Hashed. See Game. "Hot Pot," very savoury for a Winter Luncheon. (Mrs. Buchanan.) This is cooked in a strong "terrine" or jar like French Perigord pie-dishes, and sent to table in it.

Prepare the mutton chops from a neck of mutton as for Irish stew, with potatoes or with rice if preferred, and a small quantity of sliced onion and a little black pepper and a little salt.

Take care there is no fat on the mutton; cover the meat with water and put the cover on. (If for Irish stew this mixture should simmer, not boil, for 2 hours.) "Hot pot" must simmer for ½ hour or more on a slow fire; then cover the bottom of the "terrine" or of a deep stone-ware jar with a close fitting cover, with potatoes; next have a layer of meat, then potatoes again, and so on to the top.

Bake 2 hours in the oven.

The large potatoes at the top should brown; if they do not, then brown them separately before the fire, and replace them on the "terrine." Remove all grease as it rises.

Send to table very hot, on a dish with a napkin neatly arranged round the "terrine" and with the cover on.

Irish Stew. See "Hot Pot."

Kidneys (Sheep's). No. 1.

With a sharp knife cut mutton kidneys in thin slices, fry them quickly till quite crisp; while frying add pepper and salt; serve in a good gravy. Or broil them on the gridiron, with pepper and a bit of butter. Serve quite hot, or they are good for nothing. "Devil"Sauce is sometimes used for kidneys. See Sauces for Meat. Kidneys. No. 2. For Breakfast.

Slice and serve on toast, for if minced they taste like minced mutton. You may season them and toss in butter, and add 1 egg beaten up. Serve on round shaped croûtons. Kidneys. No. 3. Mrs. Thomas's way.

Take 2 or 4, slice and wash them in cold water and salt: let them be in it a few minutes. Then dry them and sautez them about 10 minutes in a little butter. Drain off the butter and put over the kidneys a dessertspoonful of mushroom catsup, ditto Harvey's sauce, a little chopped parsley, pepper and salt; leave them on the fire to heat through.

Kidneys. No. 4. "Rognons à la Bretonne." (Mrs. Caswell.) As an entrée.

To make the glaze, slice 4 large onions and fry them in butter a nice brown: add a teacupful of stock and reduce to glaze. The kidneys (veal, lamb or mutton) must be sliced thin and fried in butter over a sharp fire; add the glaze you have made and a little chopped parsley, also a little lemon juice. Warm all up together and season; dish with fried "croûtons"round the outside of the dish, onions next, and the kidneys piled in the centre.

Kidneys. See also Spinach Fritters - Turin, under Vegetables. Lamb Cutlets (Cold) "à la Chesterfield." (Auchentorlie. 1876.) Take a neck of lamb, cut it into good-sized cutlets, allowing a bone to each cutlet. Beat and trim them a little. Lay them in a braising pan upon a bed of sliced vegetable with a few peppercorns and cloves, and as much good stock as will cover them. Set them on the stove to simmer gently for an hour. Allow them to become partly cold in their own liquor. Put the cutlets in the press between 2 dishes. When cold, trim them smooth. Make a thick brown sauce with a good bit of glaze in it. Keep stirring occasionally till it begins to set, then pour it immediately over the cutlets. Garnish with aspic jelly and also, if preferred, fill up the centre with a rich Tartar sauce, in which there have been mixed some young cold boiled peas or asparagus points. This dish is to be iced.

Lamb's Fry.

Liver, lights, heart, sweetbreads, kidneys, all cut in shapes, and nicely prepared, dipped in pepper, salt, and flour, and sautéd lightly. Serve, with a squeeze of lemon over them, in Spanish Sauce (see Sauces for Meat), with which are warmed up previously stewed mushrooms or truffles. Nicely fried parsley over all. Lamb's Head.

The lamb's head is skinned, cleaned, soaked, well boiled with vegetables, drained, boned and pressed with a weighted plate. When cold it is cut in squares, which are warmed in stock, and glazed. The boiled tongue is skinned and divided; the brains soaked and fried; use any sauce, and you can add more braised tongue and any vegetables that are liked.

You can crumb the lamb's head for a change.

Lamb "Haggis." See "Haggis."

Lamb - Mint Sauce for. See Sauces for Meat.

Lamb - Shoulder of. See Shoulder of Mutton rolled.

Lambs' Tails in Béchamel sauce make a good vol au vent instead of chicken. See "Vol au Vent à la Financière, "under Poultry.

Leg of Mutton - Baked. See Game - Venison - Haunch No. 1. Leg of Mutton - Braised. No. 1. Mrs. Dick's.

Put in the meat, weight 8 or 9 lbs., first. Add the trimmings of the meat and any fresh fat, a little allspice and pepper, thyme, parsley, onion, celery, and carrot, turnip also if good. Cover it with cold water, over that put a lid of foolscap paper cut to fit. Put the lid on close and put on a slow fire till it comes to the boil, then skim well and set on one side to simmer gently 2½ or 3 hours. Use any gravy that is convenient. Leg of Mutton - Braised. No. 2. (Mrs. Sherwood.) The secret is to cook it very slowly - to let it simmer, never to boil. For 7 lbs. fully 4 hours steady cooking is needed.

Take a stewpan with a close-fitting cover. Into it quarter 4 or 5 peeled onions. Slice into it 3 carrots, 1 turnip, and a stick of celery. Add also a bunch of sweet herbs, i.e., 1 sprig of thyme, 1 of sweet marjoram, 3 sprays of parsley, and 1 sweet bay-leaf, all tied together.

Add 1 pt. of second stock or of cold water. Then beat the leg of mutton well, and put it in. Cover first with lid of buttered paper cut to shape, to keep in the steam; then put the copper lid on the stewpan tight, and put the pan on the oven. When cooked, take the mutton out of the saucepan, skim, and strain the gravy, and if not enough, add a little more.

Dish it like a roast leg of mutton. "We like it tender but not rich, so we often use no stock and never use bacon." - C.C.

Leg of Mutton - Braised. No. 3. (Mrs. Norman. 1862.) (Mrs. Norman allows the same time to cook as Mrs. Sherwood does in No. 2, but puts peeled onions in whole, and lets leg of mutton be half covered with stock or water, simmering; no seasoning, but herbs in a bunch, and bones, sliced carrots, and celery. First a paper lid, and over that the copper lid, as in Mrs. Sherwood's recipe.) Braise as you do Leg of Mutton, No. 2.

About 1 hour before serving take out the leg of mutton and keep it warm in the oven. Baste it well with its own gravy once or twice, to glaze it. Skim, and strain the gravy, and reduce it. Serve onions round meat. These when cooked are kept warm in a pan with a little stock; don't let them break, which they will do if cooked all the time; minced carrots also can be used if liked.

Leg of Mutton - Roast is good with Onion Sauce, No. 2. See Sauces for Meat. Loin of Mutton. No. 1. Boned and Stewed.

Take out the bones without entirely dividing the meat. Take out the kidney and inside fat, and, if the mutton be very fat, some of the outside fat must be taken off also.

After it is boned, rub it over with about 1 oz. of coarse sugar and a glass of port wine, in which liquor it must be rubbed daily for 3 or 4 days. When ready to be dressed, skewer it in a good shape and fry it to brown only. Then put it into a stewpan with 1 qt. of water, or broth or weak gravy which is certainly better. Add a little mace, 2 or 3 cloves and a few peppercorns. Stew it till it is done enough, then thicken the gravy and add a little port wine and ketchup, Serve with currant jelly.

Loin of Mutton. No. 2. Braised, "Filet de Mouton Brais." (Cataldi.) Trim off all the fat from a loin of mutton, bone it also if you like. Have a braising pan ready with the bottom covered with slices of bacon, onions, carrots and herbs. Put in the loin of mutton (without water) and set the braising pan over a sharp fire. Let the mutton get a nice brown colour and then add about 1 pt. of gravy stock.

Let it boil first, then cover the pan and put it in the oven, or underneath a charcoal stove on charcoal ashes, which is better.

If not a good colour glaze it over with a glaze brush and put it back uncovered into the oven to glaze.

Skim all fat off the gravy, strain it and serve it with potatoes "Pommes de terre à la Marquise"round it (see Vegetables).

Loin of Mutton. No. 3. Dressed like Roe Venison, "Filet de Chevreuil." (Cataldi.) The underside of the loin of mutton is cut out in cutlets, beaten out and larded with bacon. A whole saddle so cooked makes a handsome dish. Mix 1½ pt. of vinegar, 1½ pt. of water, into which slice a carrot and an onion, add 2 bay - leaves, a sprig of thyme, a little parsley, and a pinch of salt. This preparation of liquor and vegetables must be boiled well together (15 minutes), then take the pan off the fire and pour the contents into an empty basin, and when just off the boil add the meat to mariner, i.e. pickle.

Leave it so 8 days, but turn each piece every day. Then take out the meat and sauté your cutlets (no bread - crumbs). When sent to table serve with a thick sauce - Spanish sauce is best: if that is not to be got, use Half-glaze or Tomato or even Reform Sauce (see Sauces for Meat for all these).

Loin of Mutton. No. 4. "Filets de Mouton à la Châteaubriand." (Cataldi.) To imitate Roe Venison.

Take the upper side of a loin of mutton, clear away the fat, skin and gristle, cut it into fillets ½ inch thick. Beat the slices flat and lard them with truffles. Lay them to "mariner, "i.e., pickle, in a pie-dish with a bottle of ordinary cooking Madeira, if you can get it; if not, use light red wine - Bordeaux; the wine must be all but boiling when added.

Let the fillets remain in it 8 or 10 days. Turn each piece over every day. At the end of that time sauté them and serve with rich Half-glaze sauce or Reform Sauce or Cataldi's "Aigre-doux," see sauces for Meat should you prefer it, or Sauce "à la Dreux," see Grouse Fillets no. 2 under Game.

Loin of Mutton. No. 5. "Stoved." (I. Emslie. 1889.) Butter the braising pan or rub it with dripping; trim the loin of mutton and put it in, with a teacupful of stock, to cook slowly, after just coming to the boil, 2½ hours. Turn it now and again, but leave it mostly right side up, and leave the lid of the pan on tight. You may add cut vegetables, but that makes it less like a roast and more like stewed meat.

It is better without vegetables.

Beef similarly cooked is done with water, instead of stock, and with raw onions, carrot, celery, and a bit of turnip, all roughly cut as if to make soup; use any beef braising liquor you have, cleared and strained as gravy. Minced Mutton. See Hare - Hashed, under Game.

Neck of Mutton. No. 1. Boiled, "Our Boiled Mutton."

Take the best end of a neck of mutton and trim off much fat. Cover it with water and have cut vegetables with it, to come to the boil, then put all to simmer at side of fire 3 to 32 hours. Add more water if wanted. It must be most tender but not ragged. Serve in a good gravy. Keep the liquor it boiled in.

For Sauce: For the Caper sauce in boat have butter the size of a walnut and a tablespoonful of flour, to make a white roux. When ready add a few tablespoonfuls of the liquor, also, if liked, minced onion and tiny bit of raw carrot; put this at the side of the fire and stir it from time to time. It should remain so (watched) 1 hour, then strain and add 2 good tablespoonfuls of hot cream. Shred in capers and a little salt at dishing time.

For other Caper Sauces, see Sauces for Meat.

Neck of Mutton. No. 2. Best End. Braised.

Trim it well. Take a stewpan and cut into it 2 carrots, 3 or 4 small onions and a stick of celery. Add a sprig of thyme and 2 sprays of parsley; also second stock to the depth of an inch. On these put the mutton and put lid of pan on close. Let it simmer gently 3 hours, then, without taking it off, put some red-hot cinders on the lid and let it simmer 1 hour more. The meat will glaze itself.

It will be tender but not ragged, if gently done.

Skim and strain the liquor in the pot for gravy, keep back the herbs and vegetables, as all their flavour will have gone into the meat and gravy. Neck of Mutton. No. 3. Braised or Stewed.

The small Southdown mutton is preferable, and the neck or the leg is generally used. If neck, take off all the thick fat from it. Put the joint into a stewpan or braising pan with a tight-fitting cover to keep the steam in, and add a few trimmings of mutton or beef with 6 middle-sized onions, 2 or 3 turnips nicely trimmed, 2 carrots, cut in pieces of about 2 ins. long, a little allspice, 2 or 3 cloves, a bay - leaf, and 12 pts. of good broth; let it stew 3 or 4 hours, according to the size of the joint, very slowly, with only a sufficient fire to keep it boiling gently; when done, take the vegetables to put round the meat in the dish.

Strain the liquor, taking off all the fat, and pour it over the joint. If you don't serve up any of the vegetables it is better to thicken the liquor a little, add salt to your taste and serve up with the joint. You can dress beef or veal the same way. Neck of Mutton. No. 4. Broiled.

For this use "Devil" Sauce. See Sauces for Meat.

Neck of Mutton. No. 5. Crumbed, without the Scrag. (Mrs. Thomas.) Simmer gently till nearly done, 5 lbs. weight will require fully 2 hours; 20 minutes before serving, half divide each bone from the next and cover all thickly with breadcrumbs mixed with a few sweet herbs chopped fine and the yolk of 1 egg. Put it into the Dutch oven before the fire and let it brown.

Serve hot with a good thick gravy. A nice dish for luncheon. The liquor it has been boiled in will make good carrot or pea or other vegetable soup. Neck of Mutton. No. 6. To taste like Roe Venison. (Mrs. Wellington.) When you cut up a sheep, lard the neck whole or in cutlets and cover it with claret and water or with vinegar and water, cold; add sliced vegetables, spice, mace, peppercorns, allspice, and cloves. Turn the meat every day for 4 days, then take out and braise it in second stock, or better still in the skimmings of the stock pot. For the Sauce: 3 spoonfuls of Spanish Sauce, see Sauces for Meat, to it add a glass of claret (sherry is too bitter and strong), a tablespoonful of currant or cranberry jelly and 2 drops only of anchovy essence. All to boil up together. Skim it well and serve round the mutton. Make double the quantity of sauce if wished. Serve with this mutton, potatoes, cut the shape of olives and fried; French beans to be served separately in a dish.

If the neck is divided, the larded cutlets should be first sautéd in a little butter and turned once; finished in a little stock or half glaze. If you like, serve potatoes or beans, in the centre of the circle of cutlets.

Potted Sheep's Head. See Sheep's Head, No. 1 Rognons. See Kidney.

Saddle of Mutton, Re-dressed Second Day for Luncheon "à la Polonaise." (Cataldi.) Take out when cold all that is left of the underside of a saddle of mutton and mince it very fine with most of the upper part, but leaving a solid rim of meat round the outside, and carefully taking away all bits of fat, or skin. Make the mince very firm and add some good Spanish Sauce (see Sauces for Meat); season with salt, pepper and a little chopped shallot and place the mince on the saddle just as the meat would lie on the bone to fill up the space evenly. Egg and bread - crumb it.

Put a border of nicely mashed potatoes round the dish and brown all in the oven. When served, help the mince with a large gravy spoon. (A nice variety is to curry the mince with which, if not sufficient, boiled rice is mixed.) Scallops of Mutton, "Escalopes de Mouton." (Mrs. Jamieson, Auchentorlie. 1877.) For a good dish you should have the underside (so-called "fillet") of two loins. Pare away all fat and sinew, then cut the fillet across into rounds, ½ in. thick, and beat and flatten them with a cutlet bat into scallops.

Season them and dip them in egg with chopped shallot, mushroom and parsley. Bread-crumb and fry them as you would cutlets.

Serve with any dressed vegetable in centre; "à la jardinière"looks best. Scallops of fillet of beef can be done in the same way. Sheep's Head. See Soups.

Sheep's Head. No. 1. Cold. (Mrs. Innes, Learney. 1885.) The singed sheep's head, having been cleaned as usual, must be carefully stewed in water until tender; the length of time required for stewing depends on how freshly killed the sheep is. Stew it with carrot, turnip, onion and salt. If for broth, it is best to add the trotters and 2 or 3 lbs. of the scrag end of the neck of mutton.

If you wish to pot the sheep's head, take it out of the pan and remove all the bone before it gets cold. Cut the meat in nice bits and lay them in a mould. Fill up the mould with good stock, seasoned to taste with pepper and Worcestershire or some such sauce, or chutney. Add 2 hard - boiled eggs and a little tongue and truffle. In hot weather add a little gelatine.

Turn out when wanted.

It will keep some days, but of course much depends on the weather. Sheep's Head. No. 2. (Cold.) Turned out of a Mould or Basin. Boil the unskinned sheep's head, well singed, and the sheep's trotters with vegetables for broth, and, if possible, put both sides of the breast of mutton with it (not too fat). This liquor makes the sweetest mutton broth of any.

Take all the meat out to get cold. For using the boiled breast of mutton and trotters, see How to Use a Whole Sheep.

Skin the tongue, and cut it up, and all the meat of the sheep's head; flavour with salt and pepper, a little chutney, and a grate of nutmeg. Line the bottom of a small pudding - basin with halves of hard - boiled eggs, put in the meat carefully and fill in with the mutton broth, strained, which will jelly. Turn out when cold.

Should first stock be used instead of the mutton broth, you must add to it a few flakes of gelatine, but the broth itself would not require gelatine. P.S. - For a change, the cold sheep's head may be slightly curried. Slice and fry an onion in butter, then add a dessertspoonful of curry powder, and a pinch of powdered sugar. In a few minutes add all to the stock, and let it come to the boil. Then strain and add to the meat.

Sheep's Head. No. 3.

Get the sheep's head well singed by the blacksmith - the trotters also. Monday night: Rub sheep's head and trotters well, first with a lemon, then with the brains, for the meat should get as white as a calf's head. To remain so all night. Tuesday morning: Put them in salt and water to remain all day and all night, soaking. Wednesday morning: Take out and cook as if for mutton broth, simmering all slowly for some hours, with the scrag end of a neck of mutton or with any trimmings of meat or bone, and with a teacupful of pearl barley, which barley should previously have been swelled ½ hour with ¼ oz. of fresh butter in the cold water with which you will make the broth, the barley swelling in butter being the main secret of the excellence of Scotch broth; add plenty of browned onions and plain boiled carrots and turnips, and the sheep's tongue. You may use a teacupful of Scotch barley meal if preferred to pearl barley.

When served, the head should be divided and laid flat on the dish, trotters egged, crumbed and fried, placed round, also the tongue, sliced, and balls of yolk of egg. Garnish with the vegetables, and serve in a thick gravy of second stock thickened with a little roux.

Sheep's head. No. 4.

Divide the sheep's head. Take out the brains and soak them alone, changing the water more than once; they may steep all night in water. Put the sheep's head, which should be skinned, not singed, to soak in cold water for 1 hour. Change the water, and soak the meat again for 1 hour more. Put it then in a pot with cold water, let it first boil up, and then simmer for 3 hours, with vegetables.

Let all come to the boil, then draw the pot to the side to cook slowly. Skim from time to time. It should simmer for 6 hours.

Drain, and then lift the meat, while still hot, carefully off the bone, and press with weights till cold. Then cut into shape, divide in 4 pieces and stew them in oven in a little stock, then crumb and salamander or glaze them.

Divide the tongue, which was cooked with the head, length - ways in 3 slices, and skin it, and add with the other meat.

The brains should be cut in 4 pieces, crumbed and fried in a little butter and used as garnish to the sheep's head, with well cooked vegetables - not those cooked with the sheep's head but fresh ones cut in shape, blanched and finished in a little second stock. You can use small onions, carrots, and even Brussels sprouts. Serve all with pieces of ox tongue round, cut very thin and in shape, and simmered till tender; tinned tongues do well for this.

Use any gravy or sauce that suits. Half-glaze, Tomato, or Soubise (see Sauces for Meat), or a good plain gravy, or the gravy in which you re-heated the sheep's head, cleared.

The water the sheep's head first boils in is very sweet for good mutton broth, with the original set of vegetables in it (See Scotch Broth under Soups). (Another copy says: "After skinning and dividing the tongue put the head into a sauté pan with a little good stock, covering the pan with lid on close, and let it heat through. This stock clarified does for gravy for the sheep's head if wished for plain.") Sheep's Head. No. 5. Braised with Brain Sauce. (Mrs. Wellington.) A sheep's head braised, with brain sauce, is very good. For Sauce: Put the brains on in cold water, tied in a cloth, and boil 20 minutes; take them out to get cold. Cut them up; make a nice white sauce with cream and a little chopped parsley; add the brains, and let all mix. Add a squeeze of lemon if liked.

Shoulder of Mutton Rolled. A Luncheon Dish. (Beechwood.) Bone a shoulder of mutton, then tie it up tight with a little parsley and some chopped herbs inside. Put it on the fire in a pan with a very little water or stock, and all the trimmings of the mutton, to braise for 5 or 6 hours. Serve, if hot, with a thick, hot gravy.

This joint, if not cut while hot, is excellent also as a cold dish. Shoulder of lamb does equally well braised this way.