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Meat (If joints are tough put them)

If joints are tough, put them in the meat screen an hour or so before cooking, to warm through.

In winter cut up the meat joints and bring it into the house, sometimes even into the kitchen, to "ripen."

All meat should be well beaten before cooking, especially legs of mutton. To Keep Mutton, &c., in very hot weather. (Mr. Justice Coltman, Birk Hall. 1855.) The sheep when killed should have the liver taken out at once; the kidney must be left in till next day, till meat is quite cold, or it will break the suet, but if left above 24 hours it will spoil the mutton.

Put the sheep to hang in a coarse cheese-cloth muslin bag, well tied at the top to prevent its being fly blown, and have small bags for the joints when the sheep is cut up. The butcher recommends rubbing the exposed parts with "ground pepper and brown sugar," for salt destroys the flavour of mutton, though it is harmless with beef. Young animals keep less well than older ones, for instance lamb, than mutton. To keep Tongues. (E. Hagger, Lamb's Conduit Street.) Boil together over a gentle fire for 20 minutes, 6 lbs. common salt, 2 lbs. of sugar or treacle, 3 ozs. saltpetre, 3½ gallons of spring water. Skim it carefully whilst it is boiling, and when quite cold pour it over the tongues, which must be covered with the brine.

To Roast Meat at an Open Fire.

Allow ¼ hour for every 1 lb. weight of meat. Cover lamb with paper, and baste every 5 or 10 minutes. If the fire be hot the meat must be kept a foot from it, and beef and mutton must be basted every 15 minutes, especially at first before the fat in the meat gets hot.

To Salt a Pig.

Cut up and clean from all blood. If to pickle dry, you will require only ¼ lb. of saltpetre to 4 lbs. of salt, for too much saltpetre hardens the pork. Sprinkle the saltpetre all over, especially near knuckle bones, for there it "goes" first. Then rub the salt on hard with the hand, and press it 1½ inch thick on all the cut parts. Then put the pork into the pickle tub, dry. A liquor or brine will soon ooze out, in soft weather especially. Watch it daily and turn the meat, take discoloured pieces out, give the brine liquor a boil up, and skim at same time (these skimmings must be thrown away). When, after boiling, the liquor is cold return it to pickle tub and the pig. If pickled moist, make a brine of saltpetre and salt, about 1½ lb. of saltpetre to 8 lbs. of salt and 2 gallons of water. Dissolve the salt and skim well. Do not put it to the pork till it is quite cold.

Pig's cheeks should be pickled as above, then taken out, sprinkled with oatmeal, and hung up to dry for a month or even 2 or 3. Soak the meat in cold water 4 hours before you cook it.

Boil pig's cheek just like a ham, with cut vegetables, carrot, onion, celery. For Sauces appropriate for various Beef recipes see list at end of Sauces for Meat. Beef - "Boeuf à la Hollandaise." See Sirloin of Beef. Beef Panada. (Frances Carr.) Ingredients: 1 lb. of tender beef or any other meat, a French roll cut fine and boiled in gravy, 2 eggs, pepper and salt.

Mix all together and beat in a mortar, rub through a sieve and boil 1 hour and add a little nutmeg.

Put into a mould and send up hot or cold, for breakfast or dinner. Beef Quenelles. (These look well in centre of Spinach Fritters, see Vegetables.) ¼ lb. beef pounded with 1 oz. fresh butter, pepper, salt, and nutmeg; passed through a wire sieve; add 2 tablespoonsful of rich thick cream - if it is poor cream you must whip it; 1 truffle minced might also be added now, not sooner. Take 2 teaspoons and, with a palette knife, shape the forcemeat in one spoon and with the other take it out and place in a buttered sauté pan. When all the quenelles are shaped and in, pour 1½ a teacupful boiling second stock in with care. Cover with buttered paper, and poach from 5 to 10 minutes in oven.

Beef with Onions "en Miroton." (Mrs. Wellington.) Cut as thin slices as possible from a cold braised fillet of beef. Cut up some onions in needle- shaped slips as for a Julienne, brown them in butter with a little sugar, and finish them off in a little second stock till quite tender; drain them and then lay them over the slices of beef. Cover the beef thickly with these mild onions. Add a little good Spanish Sauce, see Sauces for Meat. Have ready some nice bread-crumbs, previously browned, cover the onion and beef with these and brown all in the oven.

Use a fire-proof dish that can go into the oven, and of a size to fit into a silver entrée dish.

You must have plenty of beef, &c., to allow for "shrinking" in the oven. Beef. See also Loin of Mutton, No. 5.

Beefsteaks, Grilled, or Sautéd in butter, can be served with Maître d'Hôtel Sauce, see Sauces for Fish; or "Sauce Gourmet," see Sauces for Meat. Beefsteak Pickled.

Lay a steak in a pudding dish with slices of onion, a few cloves whole pepper, salt, a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, 1 of marjoram, and some parsley, add oil and tarragon vinegar in equal parts just to come up to the steak; let it steep in this marinade about 12 hours, turning it occasionally, then take it out and fry it slightly on both sides in butter; then add the marinade and a little common stock, and let the steak stew gently till thoroughly done; strain some of the liquor, free it absolutely from fat, reduce it a little on the fire, and pour over the steak and serve.

Beefsteak. Rules in Beefsteak Club Established 1734. Pound well the steak till all the fibres are broken. Don't spare the coal. Turn it frequently.

Take care the fat is more done than the lean.

Take care the juice is allowed now and then to fall into the dish. Butter the steak but do not season till dished. Gauze gridiron recommended. Beefsteaks, "Sautés aux truffes." (Cataldi.) Make nice steaks of the underside of the sirloin i.e. the fillet. Sauté them in a stewpan in a little butter; when done, take them out of the stewpan, and put them on to a hot plate or into the bain - marie to keep warm, not into the oven or they will get hard. Skim off all the fat on the mixed butter and gravy or the beef which is left in the stewpan. Add a piece of glaze and put the pan on the fire, and as it melts add some truffles, sliced. Melt the glaze as quickly as possible, shaking the pan gently.

When the glaze has melted, return the steaks into the sauté pan to glaze well. Dish up the steaks in a circle with the truffles in the centre and put the gravy everywhere. (This recipe is marked "Excellent." - C.C.) Beefsteaks - - St. Julian's (very small).

The underside of the sirloin, the fillet, should be used, cut about the size of large cutlets and beaten very thin, to be fried in a buttered sauté pan, turned, and, whilst cooking, sprinkled on both sides with some parsley and shallot chopped fine. Pepper and salt to taste. The sauce to be made in the pan is their juice with a little flour and gravy, and a small quantity, "a dash," of Mushroom catsup. Potatoes must be cut in the shape of "pigs" or oranges and fried and dished up in the centre of these beefsteaks.

Beefsteak, see also Mutton Haricot and Mutton Chops Broiled. Beef - as at Tortoni's Restaurant in Paris. (Mrs. Pearson.) Chop some beef very fine - mix with it pepper, salt, and a little onion and egg, make it into cakes and fry them.

Boiled Beef. (Mrs. Weston.) For this use the silverside.

The day before it is wanted, or 24 hours before you begin to cook it, sprinkle it delicately with salt (less than ½ lb. salt for 18 lbs. beef). Next day wash it well so that no salt is left on it. Then put it into the pot with 3 carrots and 3 onions and the bone of a leg of mutton, or any trimmings of meat you may have in pieces the size of your fist. Pour in cold water till nearly half the height of the beef is covered, and let it simmer gently 6 or 8 hours, but never boil.

Serve up with carrots, turnips, and greens. The liquor left makes good soup. (See Family White Soup, under Soups.) Boiled beef may be served with Horseradish Sauce, No. 1, see Sauces for Meat, and can have Suet Pudding or Dumplings served with it.

Collared Beef. (Dr. Hervey, of Aberdeen. 1867.) Choose the thin edge of the flank of fine mellow ox beef (not too fat). Lay the joint in a dish with salt and saltpetre. Turn and rub it every day for a week. Then remove all the bone and gristle, also the skin of the inside. This done, cover the inside with the following seasoning: a large handful of parsley, a large handful of sage, if you like sage, some thyme, marjoram, pepper and allspice. All cut small or bruised. If liked, a small quantity of garlic may also be added to the seasoning. Roll the meat as tight as possible, and bind it in a cloth tied round with tape. Boil gently 7 or 8 hours. When boiled place a heavy weight on the meat without removing the cloth. When quite cold, remove the cloth and glaze the outside of the roll of beef. "Escalopes de Boeuf." Scallops of Beef. (1878.) (See also Scallops of Mutton for another recipe for them). These are of the thin end of the fillet - they look like Lilliputian beefsteaks. The day before you have them, it is well to have some entrée with "Fines Herbes" Sauce, see Sauces for Fish.

First sauté the steaks in a little butter over the stove, then turn each piece, once. Glaze them first, then keep them warm with very little stock in a small pan in the bain - marie. In the pan they have cooked in put a piece of glaze to melt and the "Fines Herbes" sauce, stir till all blend; skim, add a little mushroom catsup, glaze the steaks a second time and dish with the sauce, with fried potato in the centre, and put a nice piece of suet which has toasted before the fire on a baking sheet, between each piece of beef. Any vegetables do for the centre of this dish, but sliced truffles do best. If you keep the steaks warm in the oven, they will get hard. Be quick about the sauce making. It should be full flavoured and rather thick. (A braised fillet, if lightly cooked, may reappear as "escalopes" and taste well. Then "Julienne" carrots go well with it.) "St. Julian's beefsteaks" are a simpler version of this recipe. Fillet of Beef. No. 1. (A) To roast it: You may lard and roast it, serving it in its own gravy with which it has been basted, with a little butter and flour dredged in. (B) To braise it: Lard the fillet, and put it into a braising pan with slices of bacon, sliced carrot, onion, and a few sweet herbs. First brown it well in these over the fire (no water), then put in just enough stock to cover the vegetables; let it simmer till cooked; in this way the juices will remain in the meat. English braising is apt to become stewing. Vegetables stewed in their own sauce or button onions with it; you may cook the fillet with Madeira wine instead of stock - a tumblerful at first, more after - 1 pt. of wine in all.

Fillet of Beef. No. 2. (I. Emslie. 1887.) Trim it and tie on the fat and have ready any bit of meat trimmings and vegetables cut as for soup making. Melt 1 oz. butter in the pan, put in the meat and vegetables, and give the fillet a sharp fry over a quick fire 15 minutes - till browned - turn it in the pan and keep shaking the pan. Then add a 1/3 pt. of water or stock, draw the pan to one side of the fire, cover it with the lid and let it simmer gently from 3 to 5 hours, turning the fillet now and again. Should it get too dry add more water, lukewarm, but slow cooking will make this unnecessary. When cooked take it out and serve it with a made gravy.

Put it in a hot dish in the screen, take off all the grease from the gravy, adding a teaspoonful of flour and mixing; then add ½ pt. more stock to the gravy, &c., let it cook 5 minutes, then strain, and add it to the fillet on the dish. No bacon wanted, as the beef has fat and juice and essence. Filleted Steaks, sautéd or fried, may be served with "Sauce Gourmet," or with Sauce for Filletted Steaks (Mrs. Caswell's). See Sauces for Meat. Grated Beef, "Grandpapa's Snuff."

Use any roast meat you have cold, beef is best if you have it, if not, use mutton, or veal and tongue mixed. Carefully remove all gristle and fat and send up as if it were Hamburg beef grated.

It makes good sandwiches and is nice also for breakfast. Grated Hamburg Beef.

The best Hamburg Beef is sold at Fortnum & Mason's (London). If you choose it yourself get an inside piece, not a ragged end. Put 4 lbs., tied very tight in a pudding cloth, into very hot water and simmer it 3 or 4 hours. Take the pan off the fire but let the beef remain in the water till cold. When wanted, cut off a small piece and grate it, not grating the whole piece at once, for it gets very dry, and hold it very tight whilst it is cut, or grated, or it will break and split up into strings. Hashed Beef. See Hare Hashed, under Game. "Langue au Jus." See Ox Tongue.

Marrow.

The so-called Marrow Bone is in the "silverside" of the round. In cold weather, use the marrow from the "stock shin." The old fashion is to send the bone to table wrapped in a napkin, as the marrow chills less in its native home. If so preferred, make a paste plug of flour and water ½ in. thick to plug up each end to keep the marrow in, and tie all up securely in a pudding cloth.

Put the bone into boiling water, to remain ½ or ³¼ of an hour, according to size of bone- then take off the cloth, take out the paste plugs, wrap bone in a hot napkin and serve on a hot dish.

Dry toast to come up with it.

We prefer marrow served on toast cut in rounds or squares. You take out the marrow, pick and clean it, put it in cold water to soak. Change the water once or twice - drain the marrow and drop it into a stewpan of boiling water for 5 or 6 minutes to mellow. The marrow will look yellow when done. Drain on a colander, cut it in pieces, put on slightly buttered toast, and season with pepper and very little salt. One minute in oven just to heat and soften the marrow, but do not let the toast get crisp. Marrow Patties. (Isa. Emslie. 1886.) Cut some thick round croûtons, and with cutter mark the inside to shape them as patties, but do not yet remove the inside; fry a nice brown, in lard, very crisp, and drain them; then scoop out the inside and keep patty warm; fill with sauced marrow just before you dish. The marrow must first be picked and cleaned, and popped for 2 or 3 minutes into boiling stock; let it cool, then cut it up and rewarm in this sauce: - The sauce is made of a roux, stock, teaspoonful mushroom catsup, and a few drops of Worcestershire sauce.

Marrow for Short Crust. See Short Sugar Paste under Paste and Pastry. Minced Beef. For recipe see Hare-Hashed, under Game. Ox Cheek Stewed.

Boil the meat till the bones come out; next day stew in its own broth, with soup vegetables.

Make a brown roux, and add good stock, and vegetables cut up in small shapes. Put all with the meat and add, if liked, a little chopped gherkin, pepper and salt to season. Serve all hot.

Ox Cheek Soup is made same way, see Soups, but with more water. That recipe also describes Ox Cheek Stewed in greater detail than this. Ox Kidneys. See reference in recipe for Poached Eggs, under Eggs. Ox Palates Rolled and Stuffed.

The ox palates are cleaned and slowly simmered many hours till tender enough to roll. Press them with a weight and skin them. Roll them up with quenelle mixture inside, and finish them in oven, glazing them. Add a good sauce such as you have with tendrons, and put peas in the centre of the dish.

Oxtails.

Cut up the oxtails in joints and braise them in stock and vegetables 4 hours. Serve with a good brown sauce.

Ox Tongue - The German Way to Dress Fresh Tongue.

Parboil it. Take off its outer skin and roast till tender, basting it continually. Dish with brown sauce, and serve Currant jelly with it. Next day cut it up in thick slices, and sweeten the brown sauce with spices, a little sugar and sultanas. Simply warm the sliced tongue again in this sauce - do not let it boil. Dish in a circle, sauce in centre. Add a little sherry to the sauce if liked.

Ox Tongue "Langue au Jus." (Cataldi.) The great art is to cook a fresh tongue very gently. First set it on the fire in cold water till it boils, then skim it and take it off the fire, adding a little salt, carrots, turnips, onions as for garnishing a stock-pot; set it on the corner of the stove to simmer merely, for many hours. When the bone will come out easily, it is done; then skin it, trim it nicely, and dish up. Serve with "Sauce Piquante" or Italian Sauce (see Sauces for Poultry), Spanish Sauce or Sultana Sauce (see Sauces for Meat). Garnish with croûtons of bread cut into shapes and fried in butter or oil.

If for an entrée, slice the tongue thick, serve with very crisp and not greasy croûtons, and have stewed peas in centre, or spinach - "Épinards au jus," see recipe for Endive - No. 1, under Vegetables. At any rate, dish to the second day if serving whole when first cooked.

Ox Tongue Pickled. (1895.) The pickled ox tongue comes by parcel post from London, and seems to get extra salt on the way, so requires 3 days and 3 nights, soaking in cold water, getting water changed at least every 12 hours.

When wanted to cook, put on in cold water, say at 9 a.m., with vegetables cut up as for soup, and cloves, peppercorns, allspice, a bit of mace scattered in loosely, also half a bay - leaf. Let the water, &c., come to the boil, then draw to one side, and let it simmer gently till 6 p.m., lid on from very first. Then take off the fire, and run a skewer into the tongue to see if it is tender enough, a hard tongue being most indigestible. When finished cooking let it lie in the water with its spice and vegetables till all are cold. Then take the tongue out, skin and glaze it.

Ox Tongue - Roast Tongue, No. 1, is an old national Scotch dish. Parboil the ox tongue, then skin it, and fasten it to the jack or spit with strings for it must not be skewered; roast it and baste it continually till cooked enough. It should be crisp outside.

Serve in any thick rich brown sauce.

The tongue is sometimes stuck with cloves, and in that case it is divided and stewed. Ox Tongue - Roast Tongue. No. 2. Fresh, not Pickled. (Caldy, 1884.) Stew the ox tongue till tender; when cold, roast ½ hour, basting it well with butter. Stick cloves in it, and send frothed to table. Currant Jelly or Caper Sauce may be served with it. (See Sauces for Meat.) * Potted Beef. No. 1. (Beechwood.) Take beef that has been dressed, either boiled or roasted, beat it in a mortar with some pepper, salt, a few cloves, grated nutmeg, and a little butter, just warmed. Pass through a sieve and press into pots.

If wanted for immediate use, it is not necessary to cover the potted beef with butter. Potted Beef. No. 2. (Agnes Young. Christmas, 1884.) For sandwiches. 2 lbs. best beefsteak, no fat, no skin, no gristle. Cut it up small and put it in a jar without any water or stock or butter, mix pepper and salt with 3 ozs. of butter. Put a layer of beef and then one of butter alternately till the jar is filled up, a bit of mace on top.

Cover close and steam 3 hours in a saucepan of water. Then take the saucepan off and take out the contents and pound in a mortar, its juice with it. Pass through a sieve. Pack it in pots or cups, and when the meat is cold cover the top of each with butter. Turn out when wanted, or serve up in the cup or pot. Partridge and pheasant do well potted - cooked whole, the white meat pounded, and legs drawn down for gravy.

Potted Beef. No. 3.

Take a fresh rump steak free from fat and skin, cut it into small pieces, season with pepper and salt and cayenne. Put it in a fireproof jar, cover with suet, put a paper over, and set it in the oven. Let it stew 3 hours, then pound it well in a mortar and if necessary add more seasoning. Pass through a sieve. Put into a potted - meat dish and cover with fresh butter.

Potted Beef. No. 4. (Miss Duckworth.) For luncheon.

Put 1 lb. of fresh beef and 1 lb. of fresh veal together into a jar and bake with a small piece of butter about the size of a hazel nut, also a little black pepper and salt. Bake very gently in a moderate oven 5 hours, then pound it in a mortar, and flavour delicately with mace and nutmeg. Pot and cover with butter to keep out the air. Pressed Beef. No. 1.

To eat cold.

Use the thin flank. Lay it in mixed salt, saltpetre, bay-salt and a little sugar, just as you would cure a ham, for from 14 to 21 days, first having taken away the bones and hard skin between the meat. At the end of that time pick and beat and tie it round with string; then put into a cloth and boil for 3 or 4 hours. Put a weight on it after it is boiled, to press out the fat and to make it firm. Trim and glaze. Pressed Beef. No. 2.

Bone the beef; then take 3 ozs. of saltpetre, some common salt, and 1 lb. of moist sugar. Mix these 3 things and boil for 20 minutes in 7 qts. of water. Pour when boiling hot over the beef as it lies in an earthen pan. The brine must cover it; you must turn it every day. Let it remain 10 days.

Take it out and strew some chopped parsley and sweet herbs over it, then roll it up * "Frothed" - i.e., dusted over with flour a few minutes before finishing roasting and basted with butter or dripping, says a Scotch cook. tightly, tie it up and braise it till quite tender.

Take it out and put it between 2 dishes heavily weighted for some hours, till quite cold, and then glaze it.

Pressed Beef. No. 3. Spiced.

For 10 lbs. of brisket of beef 4 lbs. salt, 4 ozs. saltpetre, 6 ozs. of moist sugar, bay-leaves, thyme, basil, marjoram, winter savoury, 1½ oz. cloves, the same of mace, and of peppercorns, and 3 cloves of garlic.

Mix all this well together by pounding it in the mortar, and rub it well into the beef, which must remain in brine 7 days; turn and rub it every day. When about to cook the beef, wash it well, and put it on in cold water with carrot, turnip and onions and a little sweet herbs, boil very gently for 5 hours; then press it between 2 dishes, and when cold, glaze over and garnish with aspic. Pressed Beef. (Cold). No. 4. Spiced.

Take 7 lbs. of brisket, not too fat. Rub into it a teacupful of salt, and a good tablespoonful of moist brown sugar. Put on a dish and powder over with a teaspoonful of mixed spice - to remain for 3 days - then turn the beef over, and powder what is now the top side with spice. Again let it alone for 3 days (this will make 6 days in all). Tie it in a cloth and put on the fire in a pan with vegetables very roughly cut, as for flavouring soup, and add water enough to cover all - also 6 cloves, a bit of mace, and a few peppercorns. Put the lid on pan and let it come to the boil, then draw to one side and simmer 8 hours (lid on). Take lid off from time to time to see if the water wants renewing. When the beef is tender take it out, and loosen the cloth to let the beef cool. Trim off all fat and gristle; then retie tightly in the cloth, and put over it a plate heavily weighted - to remain till next day. Remove cloth with care and glaze the beef, and put aspic jelly round it.

Pressed Beef. No. 5. Spiced. (Annie Emslie. 1889.) Use brisket of beef well jointed, so that both spice and salt can penetrate well. Take 2 ozs. of saltpetre and 14 lb. of mixed spice, and rub it well into all the joints. Cover well over with dry salt for 8 or 9 days. When ready to cook, rub off the salt, and put the beef in a stewpan, with plenty of vegetables and sweet herbs. Cover it with cold water, and stew it very gently for 8 hours. Then take it up, bone it, and put it in a cloth and press it. When cold it will be ready for table in glaze or aspic jelly.

Roast Beef can have Horseradish Sauce, see Sauces for Meat, with it, also Yorkshire Pudding, see Meat Pies, &c. "Russian Cutlets." (Mrs. Tomsett, Atherton Terrace.) These are of cold roast beef, prepared in the usual way as for rissoles, adding about an eggspoonful of chopped onion, parsley and mushrooms. They are cut out to a small size cutlet shape, egged and bread-crumbed and fried in lard, and served with a little sauce and any mushrooms or other vegetables in the centre. For Sauce: 1 oz. of butter, mixed with a dessertspoonful of flour to thicken it, 1 tablespoonful of grated horseradish, 2 sliced onions, a bay - leaf, parsley, thyme, a little chopped ham, a dessertspoonful of vinegar. All to simmer gently for 20 minutes, then strain.

Scallops of Beef. See "Escalopes de Boeuf."

Scotch Collops. (Mrs. Wellington. 1880.) Take 1 lb. of uncooked beef, freed from fat, skin or gristle. Mince it fine and put it into a buttered stewpan. Put it on the stove, and whilst it is cooking pound it with a pestle, and stir it, to prevent it getting into lumps and knots. Season with a little pepper and salt, and add a peeled raw whole onion. Draw the stewpan to one side of the stove and put the lid on, to simmer slowly. Stir now and then.

Good beef should make its own gravy, but if the beef is too dry, add a little nice gravy from roasted meat, it answers better than stock. Simmer 20 or 30 minutes. Take out the onion before dishing up the beef. (See Sir A. Milne's Omelet - under Omelets, to use up remains of this dish.) These collops when made with mutton should be flavoured with fines herbes. Sirloin of beef, "Boeuf à la Hollandaise" (Cold).

Slices of cold roast sirloin of beef curled like bacon; in the centre lettuces chopped fine; outside the circle of beef curls, cucumber and tomatoes can be cut and placed as a finish.

Tartar sauce to be served in a sauce boat at the same time. In summer, it is much better iced.

This dish can also be eaten with Dutch sauce, but Tartar Sauce is better. (For both, see Sauces for Meat.) Sirloin of Beef, Flap.

If the sirloin is too long, cut off the flap, rub it with salt and let it lie 12 hours. Then wash the salt off, tie it up with a string and braise or boil. If the latter, serve with suet dumplings (see Meat Puddings), carrots, turnips and greens. Sirloin of Beef "Lobscouse" is mashed potatoes with a little onion and seasoning, and some nicely cut, tender dice from cold underside of sirloin of beef, all put into a buttered pie-dish and browned 1 hour in the oven. No fat or skin or gristle. (A seaman's dish for board ship).

Stuffed Sirloin of Beef.

Use only the upper side of the sirloin, bone it, beat it well, and lay it flat on the table, spreading forcemeat "à la Provençale" on it where the bone was. If you have no stuffing, wrap up fresh Tarragon leaves in the beef. Roll it up and sew it, or tie it tight, and let it stew gently in /½ pt. of stock and vegetables for 5 or 6 hours, according to its size. Put it in the pot with the uncut side uppermost till the last 1½ hours, then turn it. When sent to the table glaze it, give a good thick brown sauce and a "jardinière" of different vegetables round it; i.e. vegetables stewed in their own sauce. For Forcemeat: The forcemeat may be "à la Provençale" (see Meat - Veal, Calf's Head, No. 3) or the following: Some suet chopped fine, a little parsley and shallot, and some herbs, some breadcrumbs, grated tongue or ham, and fat bacon. Rabbit - ½ lb. uncooked, improves the stuffing. Beat all well together before spreading on the beef. (Stuffed sirloin has a good deal in common with Turin Braised Beef, but latter has no stuffing.) "Toad-in-a-Hole." No. 1.

Mix a good batter of 2 or 3 eggs, some sifted flour, milk and a little salt. Put some of the batter into a pie-dish, lay a tender rump steak on it, well seasoned, and then pour in the rest of the batter. Bake it a nice colour, taking care it does not burn. Toad-in-a-Hole. No. 2. Dr. Wolff's - (for early Sunday dinner), is very similar. 1 lb. of flour, a little salt, 2 eggs, milk and water, all made into a stiff batter, and well beaten till smooth with a wooden spoon. The beefsteak, fat and lean, and a couple of sheeps' kidneys cut into 2 or 3 pieces must be laid in a pie-dish and the batter poured over. Bake 2 hours in a brisk oven.

Turin Braised Beef with Cabbage, "à l'Estragon," i.e., with Tarragon Sauce. Take the upper side of a sirloin or the rump; bone the sirloin, beat it very well, season it inside, roll and tie it up very tight; put it in a braising pan (lay it on the joined part till the last 12 hours before serving, then turn it over) with the usual accompaniments of slices of fat bacon, sliced vegetables, carrots, turnips, celery, onions, herbs, &c., also 1½ pt. of second stock or water; cover close, and put into the oven to simmer slowly many hours (6 or 8) till quite tender. Serve the vegetables round the meat. Should you have button onions, half cook them with the beef, and finish separately in a little glaze. Serve the beef with its own gravy, skimmed and strained; and Tarragon sauce in sauce boat, i.e. second stock in which fresh Tarragon leaves have been simmered ¼ hour, thickened with a small roux of flour and butter, and strained into the sauce boat; if you do not give cabbage have Mushroom Sauce (see Sauces for Poultry.) Garnish the beef with dressed cabbage. For this savoys answer best; wash and clean them; boil them thoroughly with hot water and salt; then drain on a sieve; divide the cabbages into 2 or 4 pieces, or more, according to their size; shape them and put a little grated Parmesan cheese and seasoning inside each; put them into a clean stewpan, and lay a thin slice of bacon on to each piece of cabbage; half cover with stock, and put them into the oven for about 10 minutes. Put the cabbage with the bacon as garnish round the beef. The carver helps to the made gravy in the boat, and also to the dressed cabbage. Or you can put the cabbage in a vegetable dish alone; if so, serve up with the stock, but without the bacon. (Braised beef as cooked by Mrs. Thomas has no tarragon; her recipe directs as follows: When you roll out the beef and after beating it, sprinkle it inside with 1½ teaspoonful of pounded mace and the same of cloves, a little pepper and salt before tying up.)