The Epicurean
A Treatise on the Culinary Art — Charles Ranhofer of Delmonico’s — 1894
No. 2796

Potatoes, Marshal

Pommes de Terre Marechal

Mince some raw potatoes; wash and wipe well on a cloth; put them in a flat saucepan with butter; season and cook very slowly while covered, tossing them frequently; when soft beat them up and dress in layers in a vegetable dish; bestrew each of these with grated parmesan, pour melted butter over and bake for half an hour in a slack oven.

For the Modern Kitchen

A two-stage potato dish: raw potato cooked gently in butter under a lid, then crushed, layered with parmesan and baked. Nothing here is difficult, but the language hides a few specifics.

A Little History

Charles Ranhofer's The Epicurean (1894) records the kitchen of Delmonico's in New York, and its potato chapter runs to dozens of numbered variations distinguished by little more than a garnish or a title — Maitre d'Hotel, Marechal, Marchioness in sequence here. Names like à la maréchale came out of French professional cookery, where dishes were routinely dedicated to ranks and titles rather than described by their contents, though the term itself carries a fairly conventional sense: egg-and-breadcrumbed, often with truffle or asparagus. What the recipe does show is a technique older than the restaurant: raw potato cooked slowly in butter in a covered pan. The parmesan-and-butter gratin finish turns a plain vegetable into something that could be sent to a table expecting several courses.