The Epicurean
A Treatise on the Culinary Art — Charles Ranhofer of Delmonico’s — 1894
No. 2971

Noodles, Baked

Nouilles au Gratin

Butter a baking dish, lay in the same preparation as for Lauer (No. 2970), smooth nicely, and dredge over with bread-crumbs and grated parmesan; pour on melted butter, brown in a hot oven and serve.

For the Modern Kitchen

A two-line finishing instruction rather than a standalone dish: Ranhofer assumes you have already made No. 2970 and are simply gratinating it. Everything hinges on that cross-reference.

A Little History

The Epicurean (1894) is Charles Ranhofer's record of his years as chef at Delmonico's in New York, and its structure explains a page like this one: recipes are numbered in the thousands and built on one another, so a single dish may be nothing more than a variation appended to the entry above it. The preceding recipe carries the name Lauer, and chefs of the period did often attach a surname to a dish to sign it or to credit a patron, though who Lauer was here is not recorded. Gratinating a cooked farinaceous dish with crumbs, grated cheese and melted butter recurs through this section of the book, which covers macaroni and rice as well as noodles.