The French Wine and Liquor Manufacturer

The liquor trade's own 1868 handbook — stills, cordials, imitation brandies and how wines were doctored, preserved as printed.

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Manufacture of Bitters (Oz of coriander seed)

2½ oz. of coriander seed, 1 " centaurium, 3 66 orange peel, 2 66 German camomile flower.

All the ingredients should be ground to coarse powder; then macerate with 40 gallons of alcohol, 95 per cent; and add 54 gallons of water, and 1½ ounce of sugar. Filter and color brown.

Aromatic Bitters. 2¾ lbs. of ground dried small orange apples, 66 " " 4 orange peel, 2 oz. " " calamus root, 2 66 " " pimpinella root, 1 66 " " cut hops.

Macerate for 14 days with ten gallons of spirit at 45 per cent; press out the dregs, and add 2½ pints of brown sugar syrup. Filter. Color dark brown with coloring. Stomach Bitters. 1/2 lb. of cardamom seed, 1 " 1 호 " " " 4 “ 1/4 " " 66 14 중 nutmegs, grains of Paradise, cinnamon, cloves, ginger, galanga, orange peel, lemon 66 :

The ingredients should be ground to coarse powder; then macerate with 40 gallons of alcohol, 95 per cent, and add a syrup made of 4+ gallons of water and 12 lbs. of sugar; then filter.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

These are three trade formulas for bitters, written for a commercial compounder working in tens of gallons rather than for a kitchen. Two problems make them unusable as printed: one of the botanicals is no longer permitted in food, and the quantities in the second and third formulas have been mangled beyond recovery.

A Little History

Books of this kind — trade formularies for wine, cordial and liqueur manufacture — circulated widely in the second half of the nineteenth century, when a small compounding house could buy neutral spirit by the barrel, macerate a proprietary blend of imported botanicals, sweeten, filter, tint with caramel colouring, and sell the result as a branded stomachic. The recipes here follow that commercial logic exactly: the coloring instruction matters as much as the flavouring, because the customer judged the bottle by eye. Bitters themselves descend from the apothecary's aromatic tinctures, and the botanicals in these three formulas — gentian's relative centaury, calamus, galangal, grains of Paradise, unripe bitter orange — are the standard European bitter and carminative drug list of the period, sold as digestive medicine as much as drink. In the United States that ambiguity began to narrow with the Pure Food and Drug Act of 1906, which required makers to declare alcohol and certain drugs on the label; false therapeutic claims were not clearly reached until the Sherley Amendment of 1912.

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