The Metropolitan Cook Book

A life insurance company teaching its policyholders to eat: the Metropolitan's own cookbook, given away from the tower on Madison Square.

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Cream Toast

Dip slices of toast into white sauce (see page 29). Pour remaining sauce on the pieces of toast and serve hot.

For the Modern Kitchen

A two-line recipe that depends entirely on a sauce printed elsewhere in the book. Make the sauce properly and the dish works; treat it as an afterthought and you get soggy bread in wallpaper paste.

A Little History

Cream toast, milk toast and their close relations were staples of the American invalid tray and the nursery table from the mid-nineteenth century onward — soft, bland, warm, and made from bread that had gone slightly stale. Household manuals recommended them for the sick and for children precisely because they were undemanding. The same white sauce, cross-referenced once and reused a dozen times, is the organising principle of books like this one: learn the sauce, and creamed chipped beef, creamed eggs and creamed vegetables all follow from it. Its appearance in a cook book of this kind reflects an interest in cheap, digestible, respectable meals rather than in cooking for pleasure.

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