The Metropolitan Cook Book

A life insurance company teaching its policyholders to eat: the Metropolitan's own cookbook, given away from the tower on Madison Square.

HomeBread and Bread Mixtures › Seventh

Seventh

Knead again, shaping into loaves; divide dough into as many portions as there are cups of liquid in the mixture. Place in pans, if a dark crust is desired, brush over with skimmed milk or melted fat. Eighth. Cover and let rise in a warm place to double their bulk. Ninth. The baking is as important as the mixing of bread. The temperature of the oven depends somewhat upon the size of the loaves. If your stove does not contain an oven thermometer, test the oven by spreading one teaspoonful of flour one-quarter of an inch thick on the lid of a jelly glass, and allow it to remain for 5 minutes in the oven. If the flour becomes golden brown, the temperature of the oven is between 400 and 425°F.

Ten minutes after the baking begins, the heat should be decreased gradually. The time for baking bread is usually divided into quarters. The first quarter, the bread rises; the second quarter, it begins to brown; the third quarter, it finishes browning; and the fourth quarter, the baking is completed and the bread shrinks from the pan. Bake loaves from 50 to 60 minutes.

Tenth. Cool loaves on a rack or place them so the air can circulate freely around the loaf. 1 cup scalded milk 1 cup boiling water 2 tablespoons fat

For the Modern Kitchen

This is the tail end of a straight white-bread method — the shaping, proofing and baking steps, with the liquid quantities tacked on at the end. The instructions are sound; the oven guidance is the part written for a stove nobody owns any more.

A Little History

The Metropolitan Cook Book was issued by the Metropolitan Life Insurance Company and given away by the million to policyholders through its visiting-nurse and welfare programmes; its purpose was as much public health as pleasure, which is why the bread chapter reads like a lesson rather than a recipe. That numbered, step-by-step structure — first, second, third, down to tenth — belongs to the domestic-science movement of the early twentieth century, when cooking was being reorganised as a teachable technical subject with measurable results. The flour-on-a-jelly-glass-lid oven test is the clearest sign of the era: oven thermometers existed and are mentioned in passing, but the book assumes a reader whose stove does not contain one.

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