The Metropolitan Cook Book

A life insurance company teaching its policyholders to eat: the Metropolitan's own cookbook, given away from the tower on Madison Square.

HomeBread and Bread Mixtures › Sixth

Sixth

Put dough in a bowl, cover closely, put in a warm (not hot) place and let rise to double its bulk. This may be overnight or in the daytime, depending on the quantity of yeast used. During the rising, ordinary room temperature, from 68 to 75°F., should be kept. The length of time required for rising depends upon the room temperature; the process may be hastened by increasing the temperature from 75 to 88°F.

For the Modern Kitchen

This is one numbered step from the book's method for plain yeast bread — the bulk rise. The temperatures given are still sound; almost everything else about the way we buy and use yeast has changed.

A Little History

The precise Fahrenheit figures here point toward an early twentieth-century book rather than a nineteenth-century one, though the line is not a sharp one, since nineteenth-century manuals did sometimes give thermometer readings of their own. Older manuals more often told the cook to set the dough "where it will keep warm" and left the rest to judgement; by the 1900s domestic-science teaching, generally associated with institutions like the Boston Cooking School and the land-grant home economics departments, was making the household thermometer a more familiar tool and reframing bread as a controlled fermentation with a stated temperature range. The choice offered between an overnight rise and a daytime one also reflects the older habit of setting bread at night with a small amount of yeast — back in the days of homemade or barm yeast, when a slow, cool rise was usually what the leavening allowed, and one that has come back into favour with cooks who like the flavour a long ferment builds.

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