The Modern Method of Preparing Delightful Foods

Ida Bailey Allen tells the story of American corn — Plymouth breakfasts to the Great War — and hangs a day's four meals on it, for the company that made Karo and Mazola.

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Eggs Benedict

6 eggs 6 rounds thinly sliced ham Parsley 6 rounds buttered toast Mock Hollandaise sauce Prepare the toast and on it place the ham, pan-broiled. Keep this warm while poaching the eggs. Place an egg on top of each slice of ham, cover with the sauce and garnish.

For the Modern Kitchen

A compressed, assembly-line version of the dish, written for a cook who already knows how to poach an egg and who has the book's sauce recipe to hand. The order of operations is the only real instruction here, and it is the right one.

A Little History

Eggs Benedict belongs to the turn-of-the-century New York restaurant trade, and its origin is disputed rather than documented — the story generally traced to Delmonico's has a regular named Benedict asking for something new, while a competing claim attaches to the Waldorf. At some point the dish migrated from the restaurant into American household cookbooks, which is where this version sits: toast instead of a muffin, ham instead of Canadian bacon, and a "mock" sauce that trades the butter emulsion for a starch-thickened one a home cook could make on a gas range without curdling it. The substitution is the interesting part. Mock sauces of this kind reflect a period when domestic-science writers were rewriting hotel cooking for kitchens with fewer hands, less butter and no sauce chef standing by.

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