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Traditions Culinaires Et L'Art De Man: Glasse

Plum-porridge, 435 "Psalm, a penitential," 286 Puff-balls. Vide "Mushrooms" Punch, origin of the word, 97 Punctuality. Vide "Dinner, punctuality at" Pumpkin, an ancient vegetable, 9 Quail, 363, 365, 366, 375, 382 Recipes A Blue-violet Salad ("The Story of My House"), 426 "A Bride's Pie" (Mrs. Glasse), 110 A good brown gravy (Mrs. Glasse), 109 A liver-pudding boiled (Mrs. Glasse), 109 Bakewell pudding, 276 Bouillon, Dumas' mode of preparing, 224 Brook trout (Savarin), 179; (Baron Brisse's formulas), 180 Cabbage, Apicius' recipes for, 29 Cèpes (Vuillemot's recipe for), 405 Chicken, Artimidor's recipe for, Cock-ale, Markham's formula for, 98 "Dish of Roses" (the), Laurentius' recipe for, 18 Flounder-souchy (Kitchener), 327 Gigot de mouton à la Richelieu (St. Ange), 380 Guisado, the Spanish, 51 How to collar a pig (Mrs. Smith), 109 How to roast a pig (Mrs. Glasse), 110 Kalter Aufschnitt, 169 Mutton Cutlets (Mrs. Walter Ellis), 276 Partridge aux choux (Baron Brisse), 371 Pheasant à la Sainte-Alliance (Savarin), 193 Potage aux choux (Dumas), 224 Quail à la financière (Gouffé), 226 Roast goose à l'allemande, 157 Sack-posset (Sir Fleetwood Fletcher), 439 Sauce for venison, mutton, and game (Francatelli), 208; for green geese and ducklings, 278; à la Schönberg (Her Gracious Serenity), 352 Spare-rib (Charles Lamb's new formula), 242 "The Curé's Omelette" (Savarin), 302 The hunter's sandwich, 441 Ranhofer (Charles), referred to, 353 Récamier (Mme.), referred to, 300 Reed-birds, 359, 361 Rembrandt, referred to, 6 Restaurants, first Parisian, 64, 66; excessive charges of Parisian, 140, 220, 342; Bignon, referred to, 219; American, 250; advantage of dining at, 339; Glatigny's sonnet on, 341; Bignon's, 341-343; Trois Frères Provençeaux, referred to, 258; a dinner at, in 1860, 297; English, 270, 275, 338. Vide also "Cafés," and specific references Retz (Cardinal de), referred to, 171 Réveillé-Parise (Dr.), referred rred to, 339 Richelieu (Cardinal de), 54,302,380; (Maréchal, Shuttleworth (Canon), his famous "grace," Duc de), 303, 348 Riquette, referred to, 202 Ristori (Mme.), referred to, 220 Signboards (old), and their mottoes, 67 Smell (the), its influence on the taste, 182 Roasting, as defined by the Marquis de Cussy, Smith (Rev. Sydney), his mot on pâté té de 120 Robert, referred to, 6, 69, 194, 201, 202 Rocher de Cancale (restaurant of), 52, 115, 117, 118, 187, 221; a celebrated menu of, foie gras, 158; gastronomic anecdote of, 249; his mot on the pheasant, 286; his poem on roast mutton, 290; on fanatics, 294; his poem on salad, 412 140-142 Sneyders, referred to, 6, 234, 445 Rohan (Cardinal), referred to, 150 Snipe, 356, 359, 365, 366, 411 Romans, luxury of the ancient, 25 et seq.; Société des Mercredis, 118, 129, 130 meals of the ancient, 27 Solomon, his table, 11 Ronsard, referred to, 52; quoted, 79 Sora, or rail (the), 360 Roques (Joseph), 408 Rossini, as a gastronomer, 219 "Royal Cookery" (Patrick Lamb's), 102 Rubens, referred to, 6, 245 Ruffs and reeves, 335 Ruysdael, referred to, 6 Sack-posset, 96 St. Ange, gastronomic homily of, 378-382 Ste. Beuve, quoted, 381 Saint-Simon, quoted, 55 Salad, 362 362; virtues of, as defined by Savarin; 301, 411; virtues of, as defined by La Reynière, 411; its mission and place at the dinner, 418 Salads, remote use of, 10 Salmis, La Reynière's lost monastic recipe for, 286 Sandpiper (Bartramian). Vide "Plover" and "Papabotte" Sanzai (Archbishop), anecdote of, 304 Sardanapalus, as a gastronomer, 12 Sauce, a good, as defined by Baron Brisse, 334; a good, as defined by La Reynière, 345; anchovy, 345; (a good), its qualifications, 349 Sauce tartare, a novel, 256 Sauces, old English, 84; best for brook trout, 191; (Francatelli's), for mutton and game, 209, 368; (English), 277; merits of, 249, 345; Harvey's, origin and anecdote of, 277; ; bread, 289, 368; their relation to gastronomy, 345; Marquis de Cussy on, 346; mayonnaise, its history and etymology, 348-349, 421; à la Schönberg, 352; a list of, for the home cuisine, 352; apple, 368; à la Richelieu, 381 Saucier (the), 346 Sauerkraut, 371; when invented, 150%; (French), not to be commended, 223 Sausages, the German the master-maker of, 152, 423; German species and varieties of, 163-166 Savarin, referred to, 75, 113, 114, 225, 305, 351, 370, 434, 443; denounced by M. de Courchamps, 158; 58; as a gastronomer, 181, 206; his discourtesy to La Reynière, 195; poem of, 197; quoted, 300-302, 383, 384, 395, 411. Vide also "Physiologie du Goût (La) Scott (Sir Walter), referred to, 309 Seasonings, used by the ancients, 28-30; used by the English, 83, 108; importance of, 446 Seneca, quoted, 5, 31, 32, 41, 46; referred to, 40, 44 Sévigné (Marquis de), referred to, 175, 200 Shakespeare, quoted, 246, 441 Shelley, referred to, 234 Shooting-jaunt a, 375 et seq.

Soubise (Prince de), anecdote of his chef, 37 Soup, bisque d'écrevisses, 150; aux choux, 224; croûte-au-pot, 224, 275; Julienne, 281; first mention of, 281 "Soupers de la Cour (Les)," 62 Soups, German, 167 Southey, referred to, 232 Soyer, referred to, 17, 106, 199, 209-210 Spartan black broth, 13 Spätzle, 167 Speaking-tube, invented by La Reynière, 126 Speisekarte, a typical, 154 Spenser, quoted, 235; referred to, 238 Sport. Vide chapter "The Spoils of the Cover" Stimulants, before dinner, 196 Stomach (the), its joys and sorrows, 5; its offices, 267, 317, 319 Strawberries vs. gout, 143, 432 299 (Rev. Dr.), anecdote of, 296- Sweetmeats, 379 Sweet potato, 256 Sydney (Sir Robert), anecdote of, 89 Tables volantes, 62 Talleyrand (Prince de), as a gastronomer, 69, 202 Talon (Joseph), discoverer of truffle culture, 388 Taste (the), Savarin's analysis of, 181-184; influence of smell on, 182 Teniers, referred to, 6, 445 Tennyson, referred to, 316 Thackeray, referred to, 159, 195, 387; as a gastronomer, 315, 329; quoted, 327, 340 Thomson, quoted, 238 Thoreau, on the mushroom, 402, 403 Tiberius, death from poisoned mushrooms, 43; as an epicure, 44; his fondness for cucumbers, 425 Timon (Bishop), of Buffalo, anecdote of, 293 Toast, a celebrated French, to femininity, 283 Toasts, form of, among the ancients, 27 Tobacco, introduction of, 28 Total abstainer, anecdote of a, 265; abstinence, poem on, 295 Total abstainers vs. guests, 263-266; brandied peaches, 433 Trimalchio, dinner of, 35 Trout, brook, best sauce for, 181; of the English chalk streams, 364; American vs. the European, 365 "Truffe (De la)," 394 "Truffe (La)," 390 Truffles, 143, 159, 210, 235, 434; species, qualities, history, cultivation, cookery, literature, and phenomena of. Vide chapter "Two Esculents par excellence " Turbot (the), 33 INDEX Turkey, a truffled, 122, 304, 385; history of the, 304, 305; wild, 369-370; wild vs. the domestic, 369, 370 Turtle feasts, American, 267 Ude, referred to, 6, 106, 199, 207 Uhland, referred to, 163, 166 Ulric (St.), festival of, 308 Urbain-Dubois, referred to, 199, 226 Van Mieris, referred to, 197 Vatel, referred to, 6, 54, 58, 130; on carving, 59 Vegetables, used by by the ancients, 9, 10, 28, 29; poor cookery of, in Great Britain, 272; importance of good, 330 Verneuil (G. de), referred to, 130 Véron (Dr.), anecdote of, 221; on the restaurant, 339 Verres, referred to, 43 Viel-Castel (Vicomte de), anecdote of, 214 Vienna roll (the), origin of, 171 Vincent La Chapelle, 61 Vineyards (celebrated), first founded by the ecclesiasts, 282 Virgil, referred to, 234 Vitellius, referred to, 43, 44 Vol-au-vent à la financière, 203; inventor of, 48 Vopallière (Marquis de), referred to, 71 Vuillemot, referred to, 212, 213 Walker (Thos.), 106, 195, 319 et seq.; as a gastronomer, 326 Walton (Isaac), referred to, 81 Ward (Artemus), his mot on hasty pudding, 134; his mot on pies, 437 to Weenix, referred to, to, 234, 445 Wheat, original home of, 9 Wheatears, 335, 361 Whitebait, as eulogized by Thackeray, 328, Whitefish (the), 45 Wines, of the ancients, 13, 17, 30, 40; of the ancient Romans, 30; in use in England, 96-98; difficulty of testing, 135; German, 168; of old Alsace, 159; brut champagne, 262, 431; importance of good, 262, 264, 265; champagne, 262, 270, 323, 337, 438; champagne, its virtues, 283, 379; their relation to the clergy, 282, 291, 293, 295, 309 et seq.; "Est, Est, Est," history of, 310 et seq.; importance of a sufficient variety, 322-323; their relation to game, 356, 372; to truffles and mushrooms, 394, 408; Château Yquem, crême, of 1861 and 1864, 427; as a medium of hygiene, 444 Woman, jealousy of, 14; imitating man's excesses, 46; Talleyrand's precept regarding, 79; compared to peaches, 119; as gastron- ga omers, 125, 343, 351; La Reynière's distinction of, as guests, 139; created for the selfish wishes of man, 174; her fondness for sweetmeats, 174, 429, 430, 433; Savarin's references to, 192; as an addition to a shooting-party, 192-193, 378; a French toast to, 283; as an adjunct to the dinner, 320; disadvantages of dining with, 338, 340; in the eighteenth century, 347; how she may hypnotise the sterner sex, 350, 429; a toast in sparkling St. Péray to her, 351; Balzac's reference to, 351; the wise one defined, 351; vs. champagne, 379, 429; compared to mushrooms, 398; pretty one should mix a salad, 420; her relation to cookery, 429; a foil for man's mistakes, 431; as a garnish to an omelette, 432; her pet tipples in colonial times, 438, 439 Woodcock, 355, 359, 365, 366, 376 Wordsworth, referred to, 240 White (Gilbert), referred to, 243, 272; quoted, Yellowshank (the), 361 Yuan Mei, quoted, 6 360