The Story of Crisco

The Story of Crisco, 1913 — how Procter & Gamble taught America a new fat, with 250 recipes and a year of dinners to seal it.

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August 1

Menu: Brown Fricassee of Kidneys; Summer Squash; New Cabbage Salad; Coffee; Blueberry Pie Blueberry Pie-Line a deep perforated tin with Crisco Plain Pastry; brush over with water or white of egg. Fill with floured blueberries; add sugar, Crisco, salt and vinegar. Allow 1 cup sugar to 3 cups berries, 1 tablespoon Crisco, 1/8 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon vinegar. Cover with crust and bake.

For the Modern Kitchen

A promotional-cookbook recipe written for cooks who already knew how a fruit pie behaves, so it gives proportions but neither temperature nor time. Both are easy to supply.

A Little History

The Story of Crisco (1913), written for Procter & Gamble by Marion Harris Neil, was published two years after Crisco itself arrived as the first widely marketed hydrogenated vegetable shortening, and every recipe in it is an argument for using the product in place of butter and lard. The dated entries belong to a calendar-of-dinners arrangement that assigns a menu to each date of the year, which is why this pie is stamped August 2 rather than filed under desserts: early August is the height of the northeastern blueberry season, and a household reading the book straight through would have met the pie exactly when the fruit was cheap. Wild lowbush berries, often sold interchangeably as huckleberries, still dominated the market at this date, and the cultivated highbush blueberry was only just being bred into commercial existence. The half-teaspoon of vinegar is not a Crisco innovation; it is acid added to fruit that has ripened past acidity.

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