The Story of Crisco

The Story of Crisco, 1913 — how Procter & Gamble taught America a new fat, with 250 recipes and a year of dinners to seal it.

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Chicken

Select young tender chickens and disjoint. Wash carefully and let stand over night in refrigerator.

A (Kate B. Vaughn) Drain chicken but do not wipe dry. Season with salt and white pepper and dredge well with flour. Fry in deep Crisco hot enough to brown a crumb of bread in sixty seconds. It requires from ten to twelve minutes to fry chicken. Drain and place on a hot platter garnished with parsley and rice croquettes.

B (Kate B. Vaughn) Make batter of 1 cupful flour, 1 teaspoonful salt, 2 grains white pepper, ½ cupful water, 2 well beaten eggs, and 1 tablespoonful melted Crisco. Have kettle of Crisco hot enough to turn crumb of bread a golden brown in sixty seconds. Drain chicken but do not dry. Dip each joint separately in batter and fry in the Crisco until golden brown. It should take from ten to twelve minutes. Serve on a folded napkin garnished with parsley. C (Kate B Vaughn) Drain chicken but do not wipe dry. Season with salt and white pepper and dredge well with flour. Put three tablespoonfuls Crisco in frying pan and when hot place chicken in pan; cover, and allow to steam for ten minutes. Uncover, and allow chicken to brown, taking care to turn frequently. Serve on hot platter, garnished with parsley and serve with cream gravy.

Meats Select medium-sized chickens and wash well, then cut into neat pieces and season them. Mix 1 cupful cornmeal with 1 cupful flour, 1 tablespoonful salt and 1 tablespoonful black pepper. Dip each piece in mixture and fry in hot Crisco twelve minutes. Drain and serve with cornmeal batter bread.

E Wash young chicken, cut into neat pieces, dust with salt, pepper, and flour, and fry in hot Crisco twelve minutes. Drain, place on hot platter, pour over it 1/2 pint hot sweet cream, sprinkle over with chopped hot roasted peanuts, little salt and pepper.

Fried Chicken, Mexican Style 1 tender chicken Salt and pepper to taste 1 clove garlic 1 can or 14 ears corn 1 seeded green pepper 2 large tomatoes 5 tablespoonfuls Crisco Corn croquettes

For the Modern Kitchen

Five variations on fried chicken, all built around the same preparation: cut-up young birds, chilled, drained but left damp so the coating clings. The heat test is the part worth reading twice.

A Little History

The Story of Crisco was published by Procter & Gamble in 1913 to teach American cooks what to do with a fat that had no precedent in their kitchens: hydrogenated cottonseed oil, solid at room temperature, cheaper than butter and shelf-stable in a way lard was not. The book's strategy was to take dishes everyone already knew and show Crisco slotted into the place lard or butter had held, which is why the fried chicken section reads as a straight catalogue of regional habits rather than anything new. Several entries are credited to Kate Brew Vaughn, a Los Angeles cookery writer and domestic-science teacher whose recipes P&G collected for the volume. The five variants together might be read as sketching something of the range of American frying practice at the time: deep-fried in a kettle, batter-dipped, pan-steamed under a lid with cream gravy, dredged in cornmeal and served with batter bread, and dressed with hot cream and roasted peanuts.

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