The Story of Crisco

The Story of Crisco, 1913 — how Procter & Gamble taught America a new fat, with 250 recipes and a year of dinners to seal it.

Home › Pastries › Chocolate Brownies

Chocolate Brownies

1 cupful sugar 1/3 cupful flour 6 tablespoonfuls melted Crisco 1 cupful chopped English 2 eggs walnut meats 2 squares chocolate 1 teaspoonful vanilla extract ½ teaspoonful salt 3 tablespoonfuls boiling water Cream Crisco and sugar together, add eggs well beaten, chocolate dissolved in boiling water, salt, flour, vanilla, and nuts. Divide and spread thin in 2 Criscoed square pans and bake in slow oven from twenty to twenty-five minutes. Cut in strips and serve with ice cream. These are a cross between cookies and heavy cake.

Sufficient for fifty brownies.

For the Modern Kitchen

The ingredient list was set in two newspaper-style columns and reads as nonsense in a single line; read it as 1 cup sugar, 6 tablespoons melted Crisco, 2 eggs, 2 squares chocolate, ½ teaspoon salt, 3 tablespoons boiling water, ½ cup flour, 1 cup chopped English walnut meats, 1 teaspoon vanilla. The proportions are the hinge: half a cup of flour to a cup of sugar and two eggs is what makes these fudgy rather than cakey, and there is no leavening at all.

A Little History

The Story of Crisco (1913) was published by Procter & Gamble to teach American cooks what to do with hydrogenated cottonseed oil, a product introduced in 1911 that had no culinary tradition behind it — hence a whole book of recipes in which the fat is named as a brand and used as a verb ("2 Criscoed square pans"). The brownie was still novel enough that this recipe closes with a definition: "a cross between cookies and heavy cake." The often-repeated story tracing the brownie to Chicago in the 1890s is tradition rather than documented fact; the earliest printed recipes under the name appear around the turn of the century, with chocolate versions circulating in community cookbooks and in editions of the Boston Cooking-School Cook Book in the following decade. The low-flour, nut-heavy formula seen here is characteristic of those early versions, and the instruction to cut in strips and serve with ice cream places it as a dessert accompaniment rather than the lunchbox square it later became.

← PreservesChocolate Wafers →