The Story of Crisco

The Story of Crisco, 1913 — how Procter & Gamble taught America a new fat, with 250 recipes and a year of dinners to seal it.

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Chocolate Wafers

5 tablespoonfuls Crisco 1 cupful sugar 2 cupfuls flour ¼ cake chocolate 2 eggs 1/4 teaspoonful baking soda ½ teaspoonful vanilla extract 1/4 teaspoonful salt Cream Crisco and sugar together, add chocolate melted, eggs well beaten, vanilla extract, flour, salt, and soda. Mix and turn out on to floured baking board. Roll out thin, and cut with small cutter. Lay on Criscoed tin and bake from seven to ten minutes in moderate oven. Sufficient for forty-six wafers. 1 yeast cake

For the Modern Kitchen

A plain rolled chocolate cookie from Procter & Gamble's Crisco promotional book, built to show that shortening creams as well as butter. The dough is stiff and sweet, and the whole success of it lies in rolling thin and pulling the pan early.

A Little History

The Story of Crisco (1913) was a cookbook written to sell a product: Procter & Gamble had introduced hydrogenated cottonseed oil in 1911 and needed to persuade cooks that a white, odourless, shelf-stable fat could replace butter and lard in everything they already made. The recipes are therefore deliberately ordinary — chocolate wafers, pie crust, doughnuts — with Crisco quietly inserted where the older book would have said butter. The wafer itself belongs to a long American line of thin rolled cookies cut with a small tin cutter, the kind kept in a jar. Chocolate reckoned by the "cake" is a good marker of the date: unsweetened chocolate was sold in scored blocks rather than by the ounce, and recipes assumed the reader knew which block she had.

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