The Story of Crisco

The Story of Crisco, 1913 — how Procter & Gamble taught America a new fat, with 250 recipes and a year of dinners to seal it.

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Chocolate Fudge

1 cupful milk Pinch of salt 2 squares (2 ozs.) chocolate 2 cupfuls sugar 1 tablespoonful Crisco 1 teaspoonful vanilla extract Put Crisco, milk, sugar, salt, and chocolate into saucepan, and stir and boil until it forms a soft ball when tested in cold water, or 240° F. Remove from fire, add extract, allow to stand a minute, and beat until creamy.

Pour into Criscoed tin and mark off into squares. 4 cupfuls sugar 1 cupful Crisco

For the Modern Kitchen

A straightforward soft-ball fudge, but the ingredient list as printed has been scrambled — milk and salt appear in the method with no quantities given, and two stray lines from a neighbouring recipe have attached themselves to the end.

A Little History

The Story of Crisco (1913) was written by Marion Harris Neil for Procter & Gamble, which had introduced Crisco two years earlier as the first widely marketed all-vegetable hydrogenated shortening. The book's job was to persuade cooks that a cottonseed-oil product could stand in for butter and lard everywhere in the kitchen, which is why a tablespoon of shortening turns up in a fudge that scarcely needs it — the fat smooths the crystal structure a little and keeps the candy from sticking, but its real function on the page is advertisement. Fudge itself is generally traced to American women's colleges in the 1880s and 1890s, where by the traditional account it could be made over a gas ring in a dormitory room; by the time this book appeared it was firmly established as a home-kitchen sweet.

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