The Story of Crisco

The Story of Crisco, 1913 — how Procter & Gamble taught America a new fat, with 250 recipes and a year of dinners to seal it.

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Molasses Candy

2 cupfuls brown sugar 1/4 cupful molasses 5 tablespoonfuls Crisco 1/4 teaspoonful salt 1 gill water 1 teaspoonful vanilla extract Dissolve sugar in water in saucepan over fire, then add Crisco, molasses, and salt and boil until when tested in cold water it forms a hard ball, or 254° F. Now add vanilla and pour into Criscoed tin. When quite cold break into rough pieces.

Candies

For the Modern Kitchen

A straightforward hard-ball candy that needs only a thermometer and a steady hand. The temperature is the whole recipe.

A Little History

The Story of Crisco (1913) was Procter & Gamble's book-length argument for hydrogenated cottonseed oil, published a couple of years after the product launched, and its job was to prove the new shortening could do everything butter and lard did. A candy chapter served that purpose neatly: confectionery is unforgiving, and showing Crisco holding up at 254°F made the case for frying and pastry by implication. Molasses candy itself long predates the book — molasses was the cheap sweetener of the American nineteenth century, a byproduct of Caribbean sugar refining, and pulled molasses taffy was standard at candy-pulling parties, the kind of social evening built around a task that needs many hands. This version skips the pulling and simply pours and breaks, giving a hard, dark, brittle-ish slab rather than the pale aerated ribbon that comes from working the cooled mass by hand.

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