The Story of Crisco

The Story of Crisco, 1913 — how Procter & Gamble taught America a new fat, with 250 recipes and a year of dinners to seal it.

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Crisco Fruit Cake

1 wineglassful brandy ½ lb. blanched and chopped almonds 1½ lb. English walnut meats (broken in small pieces) 1½ lb. stoned and chopped dates 1 lb. currants 1 lb. seeded raisins 1 lb. glace cherries 1 teaspoonful baking soda 1 teaspoonful salt ½ cupful New Orleans molasses ½ cupful cold black coffee 1 teaspoonful grated nutmeg 2 teaspoonfuls powdered cinnamon 1 teaspoonful powdered cloves Cream Crisco and sugar together, add eggs well beaten, beat five minutes, then add coffee, soda mixed with molasses, brandy, flour sifted Cakes with salt and spices. Now add raisins, currants, dates, cherries cut in halves, and nuts. Mix carefully and turn into Criscoed and papered tin and bake in moderate oven two and a half hours. Brandy may be omitted. Sufficient for one large cake. 1½ cupfuls sugar 1½ cupfuls milk 1½ cake chocolate

For the Modern Kitchen

The text as printed is incomplete: the shortening, sugar, eggs and flour quantities for the cake itself are missing from the ingredient list, and the final three lines (sugar, milk, chocolate) belong to a different recipe entirely. Treat what follows as guidance for reading the page rather than a working formula.

A Little History

The Story of Crisco (1913) was written by Marion Harris Neil for Procter & Gamble, two years after Crisco itself went on sale, and it is one of the clearest examples of a cookbook built to teach cooks what to do with a brand-new ingredient. Crisco was hydrogenated cottonseed oil, a solid fat that behaved like lard but came from a plant, and the book takes pains to show it creaming into cakes, frying doughnuts and greasing tins — hence the verb "Criscoed," which appears throughout. A brandied, molasses-dark fruit cake of this scale was standard Christmas and wedding fare in American households, made weeks ahead and matured; putting one in the book argued that the new fat could hold its own in the most traditional and most expensive cake in the repertoire. The cold black coffee is a period touch, used in dark cakes for colour and a faint bitterness that keeps the molasses from cloying.

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