The Story of Crisco

The Story of Crisco, 1913 — how Procter & Gamble taught America a new fat, with 250 recipes and a year of dinners to seal it.

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December 22

Menu: Petite Marmite; Goulash of Veal; Saute Potatoes; Cauliflower; Orange Salad; Cornstarch Souffle; Coffee; Cornstarch Soufle-Bring 1 quart; milk and 1 tablespoon Crisco to; boiling point; beat 4 tablespoons; cornstarch with 1 cup sugar, yolks; of 5 eggs together and add to hot; milk. Stir and cook 8 minutes then; Christmas Dinner; add 1/4 teaspoon salt and 1 tea-; spoon vanilla extract. Pour into

For the Modern Kitchen

The text breaks off mid-instruction, so what survives is the custard base of a baked cornstarch soufflé — milk, cornstarch, sugar and yolks cooked to a thick pastry-cream, which was then almost certainly folded with the whipped whites and baked. Treat the fragment as a base and finish it by standard practice.

A Little History

The Story of Crisco (1913) was published by Procter & Gamble to teach American cooks what to do with a wholly new ingredient: a solid white fat made by hydrogenating cottonseed oil, introduced in 1911 as a substitute for lard and butter. Procter & Gamble's "A Calendar of Dinners" — a separate Crisco publication — printed a full year of menus with the recipes attached, which is why this souffl u00e9 arrives filed under "Coffee" — it was simply the sweet course of that day's dinner, and the coffee that followed it. Cornstarch puddings and "souffl u00e9s" like this one were a fixture of late nineteenth-century American dessert cookery; the tablespoon of Crisco is the advertisement, inserted into an already familiar dish to show that the new fat belonged everywhere in the kitchen.

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