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December 22
Menu: Petite Marmite; Goulash of Veal; Saute Potatoes; Cauliflower; Orange Salad; Cornstarch Souffle; Coffee; Cornstarch Soufle-Bring 1 quart; milk and 1 tablespoon Crisco to; boiling point; beat 4 tablespoons; cornstarch with 1 cup sugar, yolks; of 5 eggs together and add to hot; milk. Stir and cook 8 minutes then; Christmas Dinner; add 1/4 teaspoon salt and 1 tea-; spoon vanilla extract. Pour into
The text breaks off mid-instruction, so what survives is the custard base of a baked cornstarch soufflé — milk, cornstarch, sugar and yolks cooked to a thick pastry-cream, which was then almost certainly folded with the whipped whites and baked. Treat the fragment as a base and finish it by standard practice.
- The recipe is incompleteIt ends at "Stir and cook 8 minutes then" — the folding of the beaten whites, the dish, the oven and the time are all missing. Anything after the eight minutes of cooking is reconstruction, not the book's instruction.
- Crisco, then and nowCrisco in 1913 was a hydrogenated cottonseed shortening; today's product is a soy/palm blend, reformulated in the 2000s to cut trans fats to negligible levels. The single tablespoon in a quart of milk adds a little richness and may help discourage a skin; butter would do the same job.
- Temper the yolk mixtureBeating cornstarch, sugar and five yolks into hot milk all at once risks scrambling. Whisk a ladle of the hot milk into the yolk mixture first, then return it to the pan.
- Cook the starch outEight minutes of stirring over moderate heat is not padding: cornstarch needs sustained heat past thickening to lose its raw, chalky taste, and the yolks' amylase must be denatured or the pudding will thin as it stands. Stir constantly and reach a full simmer.
- Oven, if you bake itThe surviving text gives no oven instruction. In period cookbooks a "moderate" oven is generally taken as somewhere around 350F, and puddings of this kind were often baked in a buttered dish set in a pan of hot water. Any time or temperature here is a modern guess, not the book's.
- WhitesThe five whites left over are the leavening. Beat them to soft peaks and fold in while the base is warm but not hot, in two or three additions.
- YieldA quart of milk with five eggs makes a large dish — eight generous servings. It is closer to a set custard pudding than to a modern airy soufflé and will not collapse as dramatically.
The Story of Crisco (1913) was published by Procter & Gamble to teach American cooks what to do with a wholly new ingredient: a solid white fat made by hydrogenating cottonseed oil, introduced in 1911 as a substitute for lard and butter. Procter & Gamble's "A Calendar of Dinners" — a separate Crisco publication — printed a full year of menus with the recipes attached, which is why this souffl u00e9 arrives filed under "Coffee" — it was simply the sweet course of that day's dinner, and the coffee that followed it. Cornstarch puddings and "souffl u00e9s" like this one were a fixture of late nineteenth-century American dessert cookery; the tablespoon of Crisco is the advertisement, inserted into an already familiar dish to show that the new fat belonged everywhere in the kitchen.