The Story of Crisco

The Story of Crisco, 1913 — how Procter & Gamble taught America a new fat, with 250 recipes and a year of dinners to seal it.

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Dressed Crab

1 good sized heavy crab 6 tablespoonfuls Crisco 2 tablespoonfuls breadcrumbs 3 tablespoonfuls olive oil 2 tablespoonfuls vinegar 1 tablespoonful chopped parsley Crisp lettuce leaves Salt and pepper to taste If possible choose a crab with large claws. Boil crab in boiling salted water for thirty minutes, take up and break off large and small claws. Lay crab on its back, pull back the flap under its body, pull it right out and commence to remove flesh from shell. Take care that the little bag near head, usually full of sand, is taken out. Throw away all bone and finny pieces. The flesh is of two kinds, some firm and white, rest soft and dark. Separate former into little shreds with a fork, also the white meat from claws, which must be cracked in order to obtain it. Mix dark soft substance with crumbs, add oil, vinegar, and seasonings to taste. Toss Fish shredded white meat also in a little seasoning, but keep the two kinds separate. When shell is empty wash and dry well. Fill shell with the two mixtures, arranging them alternately, so that they appear_in dark

For the Modern Kitchen

An English-style dressed crab dropped into an American shortening pamphlet, with the text cut off mid-sentence and a Crisco quantity the method never uses. Read it as a technique for picking and re-filling a crab rather than a fixed formula.

A Little History

The Story of Crisco (1913) was a promotional cookbook issued by Procter & Gamble two years after Crisco — hydrogenated cottonseed oil — went on sale, and its business was to show the new fat doing everything butter, lard and suet had done. That mission explains the odd shape of this page: dressed crab is a British seaside dish, essentially a cold salad served back in its own shell, and it has no real need of shortening at all. The recipe reads as though it were adapted from an English source with a Crisco quantity added at the top of the ingredient list and never worked into the method. Dressing a crab in its shell is old practice in the crab ports of southern England and was well established in nineteenth-century household cookery; the division of the meat into firm white and soft brown, dressed separately and laid in stripes, is the traditional presentation and has changed very little since.

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