The Story of Crisco

The Story of Crisco, 1913 — how Procter & Gamble taught America a new fat, with 250 recipes and a year of dinners to seal it.

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Fried Cakes with Apple Sauce

1 cupful sugar 4 tablespoonfuls Crisco 3 cupfuls sour milk 1/4 teaspoonful grated nutmeg 1 teaspoonful lemon extract 1 teaspoonful baking soda 1 teaspoonful baking powder ½ teaspoonful salt Flour Apple sauce Cream Crisco, gradually add sugar, then add salt, nutmeg, lemon, soda, baking powder, sour milk and sufficient flour to make stiffish dough. Roll out on floured baking board, cut with large round cutter, and fry in hot Crisco until well cooked and nicely browned on both sides. Drain and serve with hot apple sauce.

Sufficient for twenty cakes. 1 teaspoonful salt 2 cupfuls brown sugar 1 cupful Crisco

For the Modern Kitchen

A plain sour-milk doughnut dough, fried and served under hot apple sauce. Two things need sorting before you start: the flour is unmeasured, and the last three lines have nothing to do with this recipe.

A Little History

The Story of Crisco (1913) was written by Marion Harris Neil for Procter & Gamble to teach American cooks what to do with a product that had appeared only two years earlier: hydrogenated cottonseed oil, sold as a shortening that behaved like lard but was shelf-stable, neutral in flavour, and — a point the company made much of — contained no animal fat, which brought it kosher and vegetarian customers. A recipe that used the same fat for creaming the batter and for filling the kettle showed off Crisco's double duty, at a time when fried cakes were commonly cooked in lard or drippings. The cakes themselves are older than the shortening; they are usually traced to the Dutch olykoeks of New Amsterdam, though that line of descent is traditional rather than documented, and solid rounds rather than rings were still being cut in American kitchens.

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