The Story of Crisco

The Story of Crisco, 1913 — how Procter & Gamble taught America a new fat, with 250 recipes and a year of dinners to seal it.

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Ginger Snaps

2 cupfuls molasses. 1 cupful brown sugar. 2 teaspoonfuls powdered ginger 1 teaspoonful powdered mace 1 teaspoonful salt 2 teaspoonfuls baking soda 2 tablespoonfuls boiling water Flour 1 cupful Crisco Cream Crisco and sugar together, add molasses, spices, salt, soda mixed with boiling water and sufficient flour to make stiff paste. Roll out thin, cut with small cutter, lay on Criscoed tins and bake in hot oven from five to seven minutes.

Sufficient for one hundred snaps.

For the Modern Kitchen

A promotional-cookbook recipe with a garbled ingredient list — the printed list omits the sugar and molasses that the method calls for, and gives flour without a quantity. Read it as a proportion sketch rather than a formula.

A Little History

The Story of Crisco was written by Marion Harris Neil and published by Procter & Gamble in 1913, two years after Crisco went on sale as the first widely marketed hydrogenated vegetable shortening. The book's purpose was to teach American cooks that a manufactured fat could stand in for butter and lard in everything they already made, which is why familiar staples like ginger snaps appear with the brand name substituted into the ingredient list. Ginger snaps themselves long predate it — thin, hard, heavily spiced molasses biscuits were a fixture of British and American baking through the nineteenth century, prized because the sugar and spice kept them edible for weeks in a tin. The recipe's enormous yield of one hundred is a reminder that these were keeping cookies, baked in quantity rather than by the dozen.

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