The Story of Crisco

The Story of Crisco, 1913 — how Procter & Gamble taught America a new fat, with 250 recipes and a year of dinners to seal it.

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Oatmeal Cookies

1¼ cupfuls sugar 1 teaspoonful powdered cinnamon 1 cupful Crisco 1 teaspoonful powdered ginger 3 cupfuls rolled oats 2 eggs ½ cupful sour milk 1 cupful stoned chopped dates 1 teaspoonful baking soda 2 cupfuls flour 1 teaspoonful salt Cream Crisco and sugar thoroughly together, add eggs well-beaten, rolled oats, dates, salt, spices, soda dissolved in milk, and flour. Mix and drop from spoon on Criscoed baking tins. Bake in moderate oven from ten to twelve minutes. tar.

Sufficient for forty-five cookies.

For the Modern Kitchen

A straightforward drop cookie, but the ingredient list as printed has been mangled — the quantities need reading with some judgement before you start.

A Little History

The Story of Crisco (1913) was published by Procter & Gamble to teach cooks what to do with a product nobody had asked for: hydrogenated cottonseed oil, sold as a shortening that would not go rancid in a warm pantry and promoted as an economical alternative to butter and lard. The book's recipes are conventional American home cooking with the fat swapped out and the brand name inserted as both ingredient and verb — hence "Criscoed baking tins." This cookie is a period type in its own right: oats, sour milk and soda belong to a tradition of thrifty baking that predates the shortening by decades, and dates were a standard dried fruit for such doughs, imported in quantity — chiefly from the Middle East, California's own plantings still being young in the early 1900s. The stray "4 cupfuls flour" at the end looks like a transcription artefact of the original ingredient layout, where quantities and items ran in parallel columns and collide when run together as a single line.

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